newbie mod ?'s and then some..help me plzz

skolinsk

skolinsk

New member
Hi, i recently got a '00 base model 4runner (manual 4cyl 4x4). its got the power windows, locks, etc package. no sunroof though :mad:

i wanted to beef it up with some mods ive read about on this site. mainly the ISR and deckplate mods, only because they seemed easiest to perform (considering my ability/experience) and the cheapest alternatives (did i mention im a college student?). the only things that made me hesitant to perform these mods were: 1) i live in vermont and wasnt sure if the cold weather conditions could be bad for the car after these changes? and 2) wasnt sure if my 4 banger was worth the beefing up or if i should just bite down and deal with my underpowered-ness?

thanks for any ideas guys. ive gained a great deal of info since joining this site and look forward to reading any responses.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS
:biggrin2: :biggrin2: :biggrin2:

PS: any quick ideas on helping me with these probs?? (they're really my only non-performance complaints about the car):
1) trailer hitch is rusted into the receiver. i managed to get the pin out, but the hitch is still rusted in place
2) rear license plate screws are rusted and stripped to hell. currently have the rear plate taped on.. bad idea i know
3) rear defroster/rear window/rear wiper/ center tail light all not working... too coincidental to be separate probs i thought, but not sure where to start diagnosing

:confused:
 

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i dont think the deckplate will change from hot or cold, try it!

1. i would say spray some good rust stuff on it and beat the crap out of it, well thats what its used for (i think the ball can take it)
2.????? no ideas at the time
3.i would check the fuses since they are all out.



how many miles?
 
i have sprayed the receiver/hitch wd-40 on it back over fall before the snow came, letting it soak in for a second, i then began to beat it with a hammer, but i soon i realized it would take a sledge (if anything) to get it free. i did however, purchase some lock de-icer that worked like a charm on the tailgate key hole. hopefully theres something out there that might work as well as that did... suggestions here??

i did check the fuses under the hood and the ones under the dash. well i should say i checked the ones i knew how to check, the smaller plastic ones not any of the big bulky fuses. either way, i couldnt find any that were out unfortunately, so im not sure what the deal is there.. the rear defrost DOES works on occasion, but doesnt generally stay on for very long if it is working at all.

shes got about 182k on her, but they were all highway miles as it was used as a transportation vehicle from house to farm for 7 years (40 min each way i was told).

i was thinking of holding off on the 2 mods until the snow melts. any thoughts on waiting or doing it sooner? pros/cons?
 
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yeah i was thinking a sledge hammer would do the trick... um... maybe


let me think about the rear.. u say the defroster has a mind of its own but does seem to work, but wiper and window dosnt at all...

well id say u have some wire issues... that sucks, i hate eletrical.. um.. let me think about it and see if i can figureout what the heck is going on...
 
I think that the deckplate mod would actually be good since its so cold in VT, as long as you dont get water in it. As for the rear window you have to take a voltmeter and test for power and ground to the motor, power and ground for the defroster switch, and power and ground to the rear wiper motor.
 
Frozen up receiver - technique to get it out

For your rusted receiver:

Get some PB Blaster or similar spray for loosening rusted/frozen bolts.

Soak it from the front and in the holes and from the back. Let it sit overnight. Soak it when you get home. Soak it again before bedtime. Do this over and over again for 2-3 days. Then and not earlier, go at it with a sledge.

If you don't get some sign it is freeing up, you need to put some heat on it. I am not talking about a blow dryer (too low) or an acetylene torch (too hot) but something in between. Buy a propane torch (used by plumbers and available at any hardware store)

Start slow, applying heat all around. Gradually heat up the receiver. Not red hot, just hot. Take a wack or two. Heat it a while...take a few more..repeat the cylcle...etc.

Be careful not to get the torch near the bumper or painted body.

Patience, heat and force will get it loose. Always does for me.
 
thanks a lot. ill try that once i get back up there. Im enjoying the warm(er) climate of new orleans till then.

any ideas on the rear License plate screws? its a similar situation with the rust, but there just so stripped to hell im at a loss for ideas.
 
for the rear hatch problems, check the wiring where it goes from the inside of the truck to the hatch. that pivot point will likely break the wires over time. same thing happened to mine (which coincidently is a '00 base model...and i live in vermont)
i was able to pick up the entire wiring harness for $15 from a guy who was parting out a dented hatch in the classified forum

good luck :)
 
License bracket

I will look at my '99 LTD bracket and see if I can spitball a few ideas.

Have you tried wrapping the screws with teflon tape (thin white plumbers tape) so they bite? This can be a temporary solution.

Hatch Wire Routing:

I recall the hatch wires go from the hatch through a grommet on the pillar and then into and down the left rear pillar. From there they go below and under the truck. If you unscrew the bottom/top trim, unscrew/remove the rear cover reciever and then gently pull the side pillar trim away (be gentle), you can access the wires. I don't recall seeing any connectors, it is a straight run.

I would check the actual wire connections on each item. Clean them up, check for good seat and then add some dielectric grease. Replace/check the bulb connection too.

P.S. No, I am not a plumber/electrician. Just learned to use various trade supplies/techniques for repairs.
 
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the rust is really limited to the rear bumper/tow package. the underside of the car as a whole is in pretty OK shape. there was a spot or two on the front bumper, but nothing a little cola and tin foil couldn't take care of.

for the rear license plate mounting screws:
i probably didnt explain it well, but the screws themselves wont come out as they are rusted and stripped on the heads.

thanks for all the electrical ideas/rust removal ideas. i will conduct those once i get back to VT. thanks for the ideas and keep em comin!!

happy new year everybody

:awais:
 
for the receiver, just put a chain around a BIG tree and hook it to ball. slowly ad more and more pressure until it pulls out.

I have a practially brand new tow package off of a 2001 sr5. its been in FL the whole time and ..... was only put on not too long ago. lemme know if you're interested
 
If the head has been shredded, get a dremel tool and cut a X in it. If the head has sheared off, they make a screw/bolt removal tool. They go by several names. Here is one example: Screw Extractor Available at any decent hardware or automotive store. Drill the damn screws out.

After thinking about it, if the receiver will not come out, consider dropping the spare and beat it out from behind. You could also unbolt the hitch from the frame. Then you can stand it up and drive the receiver out from the back.
 
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