No Electricity

[Orion_71115]

So I took the ZRV out for a drive yesterday. I had to get gas and some other things so I figured It would like to stretch its legs. I managed to get all my running done and just as I pull into my parking spot, I let the clutch out just a little to ease on in and the truck just died. I don't mean like "stalled" died. I mean like EMP blast died.

My first thought was that The alternator went out and I had just drained the battery. So I got out the volt meter and checked the battery and I have 12 volts coming off of it. So I moved on to my fuses and all are good except one 30 amp one under the hood that goes to Fan2. Its a weird little bugger that I have never seen before but since it says fan, I am sure it is not the problem. Next I checked my ground wires which are conveniently bolted to the side of the intake manifold. Those are good.

So my question is, if my fuses are good, my battery is charged and my grounds are good, why do I have zero electricity in my truck? No dome lights, no radio, not ignition buzzer or anything. It is dead as a door nail. What would keep it from coming alive if I have power in the fuse blocks?

One other thing to note that may be relevant, I noticed a hesitation in the truck. Be it driving or idling, there was just a stumble every now and again. I figured it was a spark plug fowling out but that may indicate something else now so I thought I would mention it if it is relevant.

Thank you in advance for any help.

Orion

 

[sam24th]

If you have power to the fuses and all your grounds are good, but the truck has no power and wont crank with the ignition in the on position my first thought would be a bad ignition switch. As far as the letting your clutch out part I have no clue if that had anything to do with it could be coincidence.

 

[Orion_71115]

If you have power to the fuses and all your grounds are good, but the truck has no power and wont crank with the ignition in the on position my first thought would be a bad ignition switch. As far as the letting your clutch out part I have no clue if that had anything to do with it could be coincidence.

I agree, it may be coincidence but thought I would mention it.
Would the ignition switch keep the dome lights from working when I open my doors?

 

[sam24th]

I agree, it may be coincidence but thought I would mention it.
Would the ignition switch keep the dome lights from working when I open my doors?

Dome light should be independent of the normal ignition system and should come on with the door open. Is your battery right on 12V or is it 12.6ish? If its right at 12volts the batt might just be dead.

 

[Orion_71115]

Dome light should be independent of the normal ignition system and should come on with the door open. Is your battery right on 12V or is it 12.6ish? If its right at 12volts the batt might just be dead.

I will have to check again. I think it was 12.4. I am pulling it and the alternator out tonight and taking it to a local store to get tested.

 

[sam24th]

Yea battery should read 12.6 at full charge. 12.1 would indicate a dead battery. 12.4 I would expect to still see dash lights etc but not crank properly. If you have another car around Id swap the batteries real quick to see if the truck will crank. If it does thatll tell ya the other battery is dead and something is wrong with your charging system.

 

[Orion_71115]

My thoughts exactly. Just strange that I am getting power to my fuses to check them but nothing works. Sux because I just about finished redoing my interior and my windows are stuck down with rain in tonights forecast.

 

[sam24th]

With a dead battery you would still get some power to your fuses. Just probably not enough to turn anything on. Are you testing it for continuity or voltage? voltage should be lower than normal or in some places zero.

Anyways good luck and sorry to hear about leaving the windows down. i did that once and it wasnt fun. Find a tarp if ya can haha.

 

[Orion_71115]

I was checking voltage on the battery but just a fuse checker on the fuses.

 

[KidVermicious]

Yea battery should read 12.6 at full charge. 12.1 would indicate a dead battery. 12.4 I would expect to still see dash lights etc but not crank properly. If you have another car around Id swap the batteries real quick to see if the truck will crank. If it does thatll tell ya the other battery is dead and something is wrong with your charging system.

Really? My truck cranks (sluggishly) at 11.5 volts.

 

[RAD4Runner]

There was no mention of cleaning battery posts and connectors. Did O.P. do that?

Use a real volt-meter to check power or resistance. Next to our senses (touch, smell, vision, common...), the volt-meter is best and most important diagnostic tool.

Probe battery post. Turn on headlights, turn on high beams, what voltage do you get?

Probe after your fusible link. Turn on headlights, turn on high-beams, what voltages do you observe?

We may be thousands of miles from you. Best if we could see what's going on.

Got a schematic? Post a pic of your schematic with voltage readings at fuses you checked with above. If no schematic, post picture of your fuses and voltages you see at each point.

Then, we'll go from there.

 

[MacGyver1979]

What RAD4Runner said :trophy:
Also the way it died indicates to me that you have loose/corroded terminals, while running the alternator produces power and would continue to run the motor even with a weak battery

 

[Orion_71115]

There was no mention of cleaning battery posts and connectors. Did O.P. do that?
Yes, No corrosion what so ever and not loose.

Use a real volt-meter to check power or resistance. Next to our senses (touch, smell, vision, common...), the volt-meter is best and most important diagnostic tool.
I am using a real voltmeter, the kind electrician use. I have an older version of this one.
Shop Southwire Digital Multimeter Meter at Lowes.com
I only use the fuse tester on the fuses because it is easier to get in there with that.

Probe battery post. Turn on headlights, turn on high beams, what voltage do you get?
Headlights do not turn on on the account of no power.

Probe after your fusible link. Turn on headlights, turn on high-beams, what voltages do you observe?
What fusible link are you referring to? Headlights do not turn on on the account of no power.

We may be thousands of miles from you. Best if we could see what's going on.
I understand. Nothing is happening other than I get green lights on all of my fuses and I have 12.4 volts on my battery that is a year old.

Got a schematic? Post a pic of your schematic with voltage readings at fuses you checked with above. If no schematic, post picture of your fuses and voltages you see at each point.
Not sure if you are referring to a wiring diagram or just the standard fuse location out of the owners manual. I think there is one on this site. I will see if I can find it.

Then, we'll go from there.

Thank you for your help.
I will try and get you what you need.

Orion

 

[RAD4Runner]

...I only use the fuse tester on the fuses because it is easier to get in there with that.

...Headlights do not turn on on the account of no power.

... I get green lights on all of my fuses and I have 12.4 volts on my battery that is a year old.

... a wiring diagram or just the standard fuse location out of the owners manual.
Orion

Green light on fuses is only tip of the iceberg. We need to know exactly what is the reason why headlights do not turn on:

1. Because there is absolutely no power, meaning there is an open circuit, OR
2. There IS power but very little voltage to turn them on.

Hence, the need to really measure actual voltage.

No-load voltage of battery does not mean much.

Either wiring diagram or location of fuses would work.

Below is just an illustration/exampleof where to probe. This is not the fuse block where you are actually probing. in fact, your truck probably does not have this. Probe the little silver tabs on either side of the Amp marking for voltage DC. Negative probe always on known good ground.

With Ignition OFF, Lights off.
Probe each of fuse, note voltage in schematic and post.

With Ignition OFF, Lights ON.
Probe each fuse, note voltage in schematic and post.


Then, we'll go from there.

 

[Orion_71115]

OK. I will do that this evening when I get home.

I will post more as I go.

 

[Orion_71115]

Fuse Block Diagram

Attached is the fuse block diagram. It is for a 1993 truck but all should be the same. I will take it home and compare to my owners manual and verify fuse and location. I will make any necessary changes and I will also include my readings tomorrow.

Orion

 

[Orion_71115]

Just a quick report back, no power to any of the fuse blocks.
Alternator tested bad but not relevant to no power since the battery is good and charged.
Starter comes out this evening.

Orion

 

[Grumbum]

Another thing to check (I know its pretty obvious and you may have already checked) would be your battery connections. They may seem like they are making a good connection when in reality they are not and may have some small amount of corrosion keeping them from making proper contact. Also If you have a decent multimeter you won't need to worry about having your black lead on ground. A decent meter will read DC voltage regardless of which lead you have on which terminal.
Oh one more thing that could be the problem....Did you remember to feed the squirrels under the hood?

 

[Orion_71115]

Another thing to check (I know its pretty obvious and you may have already checked) would be your battery connections. They may seem like they are making a good connection when in reality they are not and may have some small amount of corrosion keeping them from making proper contact. Also If you have a decent multimeter you won't need to worry about having your black lead on ground. A decent meter will read DC voltage regardless of which lead you have on which terminal.
Oh one more thing that could be the problem....Did you remember to feed the squirrels under the hood?

The terminal question was asked before and yes they are fine. Battery is not even a year old. Zero corrosion. Terminals were new with the battery.

I have a good multimeter. It reads voltage just fine. I popped the fuse inside when checking current. I am not that smart when it comes to that.

And yes, I just put $60 in gas in it which is what I was out doing. No gas would not account for no electricity in the truck. The battery is good but the truck is acting as if the battery is not even there. Can't even push start it.

Orion

 

[RAD4Runner]

Attached is the fuse block diagram.

... no power to any of the fuse blocks...

This could only mean one thing. The main fusible link (FL Main in top-right corner of schematic) is open. All power to the fuse blocks passes through this short segment of wire that melts after sustained overload. One end of the FL is connected directly to battery terminal. The other end enters the very first fuse block in the system. I suggest you check voltage exactly where that enters the very first fuse block.

The FL wire looks like this on the first-gen: