No Heat? Clicking noise?

00HiluxSurfLTD

New member
For some reason my heat stopped working and there is a clicking noise coming from behind the radio in my 2000 LTD. pulled everything out of the center console and behind the oem amp I found the cable the attaches to the lever that controls Heat/Cold. If is turn the knob on my climate control to 65 I can see the lever move all the way in one direction, then I turn the knob to 85 and watch it move in the other direction but then it looks like it gets stuck and starts clicking. Ive done some searching and I think it might be something called the servomotor? but I have no clue where its located or even how to remove it. Hopefully somebody here has the answer and pics would REALLY help. I miss having heat

TIA
 
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I have the exact same issue right now and from removing some dash trim I can see a motor at the bottom of the heater box driving various arms. When I turn the heat up, the motor attempts to drive all of the arms attached but gets jammed mid movement. i just don't know what could be jamming it, anybody have this similar issue?
 
I had that same problem on my 99. It's a motor that opens and closes the heater valve. The teeth breaks and won't open the valve. It's located in the passenger side under the glove comp. left hand side. I found it at a junkyard for $30. Also make sure the cable is not dried up.

ToyotaPartSales.com
 
thanks for posting a reply and I think you're bang on with the problem here. I just tore apart the whole dash and took the front cover off the heater box to see exactly what could be blocking the movement and nothing was there. I pulled the motor out of the arm guide and turned the dial to hot, the motor hesitated at the same moment it would jam in the heater box. I turned the heater back to cold and then back over to hot but this time with a little resistance from my finger and it jammed and started to click.

Going to replace the motor and reply with results. Thanks again and I wish I saw your post before I tore the dash apart :ybrick:
 
Clicking issue is now resolved and I have heat. It was the servomotor that required replacing. Thanks for the reply and for anybody who stumbles on this thread, you don't need to tear apart your dash to get to this motor.

The motor is located on the underside of the heater box in the top left corner of the passenger foot well. It's mounted with three bolts and has a harness clipped to it. Unclip harness, remove motor and replace. :hatsoff:

2008-03-23_082225_1.gif
 
Clicking issue is now resolved and I have heat. It was the servomotor that required replacing. Thanks for the reply and for anybody who stumbles on this thread, you don't need to tear apart your dash to get to this motor.

The motor is located on the underside of the heater box in the top left corner of the passenger foot well. It's mounted with three bolts and has a harness clipped to it. Unclip harness, remove motor and replace. :hatsoff:

2008-03-23_082225_1.gif

Sloveniaboy....
how on earth did you remove the third screw? ! It looks like it is impossible to remove! it is very hard to get to it. Any suggestions?
 
I used a small mirror and felt arpound for the screww. It is tucked in back behind the part.

I am having problems describing the patrt to find one. Does any one know what it is called?

Two parts stores I went to could not find it evwn with the part number below.

It is a:
DENSO
063700-7550
12V 2B
Made in Japan
 
Servo

The part you are describing is Servo #2 (there are two of them), conveniently this is the easiest one of them to access... Happened in both of my runners!
 
How do you get to this in a 2003 4Runner

I have a 2003 4Runner and I can't get enough of the dashboard off to get to this thing. I can see it, but it's partially blocked by part of the frame of where the dash is that holds the glove compartment in place. I removed the glove compartment and even removed the trim around the radio and pulled out some of the stuff in the center to see if I could figure out how to get to this motor and I can't seem to get sufficient access to it.

Does anyone have any instructions to get this thing out on a 2003 4Runner that they could share here?
 
I have a 2003 4Runner and I can't get enough of the dashboard off to get to this thing. I can see it, but it's partially blocked by part of the frame of where the dash is that holds the glove compartment in place. I removed the glove compartment and even removed the trim around the radio and pulled out some of the stuff in the center to see if I could figure out how to get to this motor and I can't seem to get sufficient access to it.

Does anyone have any instructions to get this thing out on a 2003 4Runner that they could share here?

ShawnP, I am having the same issue with my 4Runner 2003. I have also located the two motors, one of which I can see is working fine, the other I can visually tell is stuck (making a clicking noise and hesitant to move) just behind the glove compartment. I have lubricated the visible contact points but haven't had any luck. Have you found out how to remove the motor from under the dash in hopes to replace or fix it?
 
ShawnP, I am having the same issue with my 4Runner 2003. I have also located the two motors, one of which I can see is working fine, the other I can visually tell is stuck (making a clicking noise and hesitant to move) just behind the glove compartment. I have lubricated the visible contact points but haven't had any luck. Have you found out how to remove the motor from under the dash in hopes to replace or fix it?
Devo - I know you last posted in June, but thought I would go ahead and reply, just in case you haven't fixed the issue, and for anyone else that comes across the issue with their 4Runner. I have a 2004 4Runner, so same gen. Heat stopped working and after pulling out the glove box and watching the arm on the air mix servo, realized it wasn't working. I was able to replace it without removing the dash, but only because I'm an average-size woman, with small hands. The servo has three screws to remove - the bottom front one is easy to remove with a standard length screwdriver after you remove the floor vent. The bottom back screw (closer to the engine compartment) was a little harder, but I was able to get it out after taking the plastic piece under the dash off and using a screwdriver that is bent about 1 inch behind the head. The top screw was a pain and I tried several things to get it out that involved just taking out random screws and pulling pieces apart. What ultimately worked was taking out this piece that 4 wires went to and was inserted into a white vent - it was all the way at the bottom of the dash and towards the left side of the passenger foot area. When I removed the harness, I was able to pull out the piece it was attached to, which looked like it had these small ceramic plates all placed in a row. It's about 2"x1.5" and heated up when I turned on my heat. Sorry, I'm not a mechanic, and really don't know anything about cars and have no idea what most of this stuff is called (I tried to add a pic, but it would only allow me to add an image from a URL). Once I took this piece out, removed the other two screws, and pushed the servo towards me (hinged by the remaining screw), I was able to get my hand and a 2 inch screwdriver into the area from directly below the screw. I could barely move my hand, but was able to get the screw out. I honestly have no idea how someone without small hands could get this out without removing the dash - my brother is an ASE master mechanic and has worked on Toyota products for about 15 years and said he would've had to remove the dash to get to it on this 4Runner gen. If you can get all the pieces above out, find someone with extra small hands and see if they can help.
 
Im having the same problem. I have taken the servo motor out and it seems that there is a lot of resistance on the levers that it turns. Any body know how much resistance there should be. I mean its almost difficult to move with my finger. Im talking about the two slotted arms that the servo motor is directly connected to.
 
So glad I found this post

I was going crazy trying to figure out what that noise was and why I had no heat. Thanks going to dive in and replace it.
 
I'm having the same issue, just started a few days ago. This thread helped me identify the issue and how to resolve it in short order and deserves a bump.

Just a quick update on parts:
The Toyota part number for the servo is 87106-35070.

The dealer price I was quoted in Portsmouth, NH is $204.98.

The Toyota part is a Denso 063700-7550 and does not have a Toyota part number on it.

I found one listed as new on eBay for $129.99 (which I purchased).

Here is an Amazon listing for the part: Toyota 87106-35070 Damper Servo Sub Assembly
 
Major thanks for making this an easy fix!

I'm having the same issue, just started a few days ago. This thread helped me identify the issue and how to resolve it in short order and deserves a bump.

I'll second this. My '99 Limited started acting up a couple weeks ago and this thread made it super easy to find the servo and fix it up.

For that back screw, I just used a short stubby Phillips head and was able to get at it just fine.

I did not replace the servo motor assembly though, I fixed it for $0. :biggrin1:

The gear only swings about 90 degrees from full cold to full hot. I was able to open the servo assembly, unscrew the arm from it and turn the gear 180 degrees and bolt it all back together. When I pulled the gear out, a bunch of the teeth were chewed up where it meshed with the arm assembly gear.(hence the clicking) but the opposite side of the gear had never even been meshed with the arm assembly gear. The first side lasted 17 years, if I can get half that out of the other side I'll be happy. By that time I should have a 3D printer and can just print out a new gear for the servo. :banana:

Total time for the fix was under an hour, and that included the largely unnecessary step of unbolting and removing the glove box and supports so I could better see what I was doing. Now that I have done it, I could probably swap that thing out in under 5 minutes blind.
 
Any body know how much resistance there should be. I mean its almost difficult to move with my finger. Im talking about the two slotted arms that the servo motor is directly connected to.

Once I had my servo removed I tried moving the actuator cable and arms. Indeed they are quite hard to move, I believe this is normal, the servo is configured to get good leverage and there may be resistance on the blend doors purposefully, like springs to keep them closed when they're not being opened by the actuator.

I'll second this. My '99 Limited started acting up a couple weeks ago and this thread made it super easy to find the servo and fix it up.

For that back screw, I just used a short stubby Phillips head and was able to get at it just fine.

I did not replace the servo motor assembly though, I fixed it for $0. :biggrin1:

The gear only swings about 90 degrees from full cold to full hot. I was able to open the servo assembly, unscrew the arm from it and turn the gear 180 degrees and bolt it all back together. When I pulled the gear out, a bunch of the teeth were chewed up where it meshed with the arm assembly gear.(hence the clicking) but the opposite side of the gear had never even been meshed with the arm assembly gear. The first side lasted 17 years, if I can get half that out of the other side I'll be happy. By that time I should have a 3D printer and can just print out a new gear for the servo. :banana:

Total time for the fix was under an hour, and that included the largely unnecessary step of unbolting and removing the glove box and supports so I could better see what I was doing. Now that I have done it, I could probably swap that thing out in under 5 minutes blind.

This is exactly right, you will need a stubby Phillips screwdriver to reach the rear screw (and to make it easier to remove the front two).

There is an alignment tab by rear screw hole to make it easy to position.

There is no need to remove anything to access the servo. There are three screws as shown in the diagram and one electrical connector. The servo arm fits into the actuator arm assembly with a pin that is easy to fit into the servo arm slot.

It should take 5 minutes to replace, 10 at most.

I still have my broken servo, I'll attempt to open it up and get pictures of the gears, possibly flip them around as you described to create a guide for others.
 
Dont buy a new motor thingy

Guys I solved the problem!!!!(someone already solved it I just didn’t see)If you pull the little black box out and then remove the screws and pop off the tabs you can take it apart. Inside is a few gears the BIG white one probably has a flat spot on it (as mine did) I don’t know what causes it but I was having the clicking noise too! Anyways take the gear out and rotate it so the flat spot is facing away from the gear that in come in contact with. Put the whole thing back together. Next go back over to your t4r and plug the box back in. DONT PUT THE SCREWS BACK IN! You need to adjust the arms so it will move correctly. This is pretty easy it just takes a couple try’s. Turn on your truck and turn the knob all the way to cold. The little arm should move down. Now the box is at its coldest point so now ajust the arms under the dash so that the truck is actually blowing cold air. Now you need to gently place the box in its place so he little pins by where the screws go in line up. Now you have to adjust the arm on your the box so it sits with the plastic arms under the dash. When you get all of that figured out YOU HAVE HEAT!!!!! I just saved my self $200 so I ordered some new leds! If you not very good with stuff like this I would be happy to fix yours for you! I live in Washington state just dm me and we can figure something out! Hope this helps for the winter. Also feel free to email me @[email protected]
 
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Just wanted to bump this thread. This was a lifesaver.

This issue happened to me 2 days ago and I just fixed it a few hours ago for free. 1999 Limited with Automatic Climate Control.

I was driving home, temps in the 40s. I turned the heater hotter, and then it started blowing coolish (like it was in the low 70s or so) and started clicking.

I did some Googling and found this thread, so last night, I removed the motor assembly from under the glove box, which took all of 10 minutes. Guys, invest in angled 1/4 hex adapter like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/quick-release-hex-socket-extension-and-angled-bit-holder-96726.html
Makes things so mush easier to get to in tight spaces like that.

I disassembled the assembly and found the big white gear was all chewed up on one side. I flipped the gear 180 degrees, then reassembled. Plugged the harness in, turned the AC to cold to set the servo arm, adjusted the arm on the truck to where it was blowing cold too, then bolted it back up. Easy peasy.

I have no idea if any of this applies to a manual AC equipped 3rd Gen or not. I'm assuming that the arms/flaps are all different under the dashboard.
 
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I appreciate the information posted here. This was an easy fix for my 2001 4runner.

The back screw is difficult. You may need a small mirror at first, but if you look over the top of the servo (with your flashlight on) you will see where the back screw should go in. Also, I had to press down on the rubber mat beneath the carpet to fit a 2 inch Phillips screwdriver straight up and down. Once I figured all of this out, it went quick.
 

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