No power to AMP - HELP!!

sant6236

New member
SO, out of the blue, I have no power to my amp. What the hell is going on?

What is the problem. I cant even get the fuse to spark on the power wire under the engine bay.

I guess I need to use a volt meter.
 
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Yup, get a good VOM and learn how to use it.

My guess is you have a short to ground, which may have zapped your in-line fuse (near the battery), the fuse(s) on your amp, or the circuit that turns your amp on (internal).

Once you have your VOM, check for 12V+ across the + and - terminals on your amp. If that checks out, you have sufficient voltage and an acceptable ground thus far. Then it comes down to whether the amp is getting the turn-on signal from your head unit.
 
Good points. Both the fuses (under the engine bay & on the amp checked out ok), they are NOT blown.

So, wouldnt I be getting some spark somewhere? In the past, all I would have to do is move the in-line fuse back in-and-out of position to get a spark.

The battery is what provides the power and the car runs?

I dont get it.

What is the function fo the remote wire again?
 
When you say checked out ok, did you check resistance or just continuity? Was there any resistance? Ideally you shouldn't have any resistance, but one time I had a fuse with 27 ohms across it. That was enough to keep my amp from coming on. Never knew you could have a partially blown fuse, but apparently it can happen.
 
what I mean by "they both checked out ok," is that both fuses were not blown.

I cant get the power wire to spark at all where it plugs into the amp and the only reason I was looking for sparks is because the amp isnt turning on. ITs as if there is no current.
 
sant6236 said:
what I mean by "they both checked out ok," is that both fuses were not blown.

Yeah, but did you check the resistance? They will look just fine and have enough resistance to drop the voltage enough that the amp will not turn on.
 
sant6236 said:
how do you check resistance?

Do you have a multimeter? If you are gonna be doing car audio I would definitely recommend having one. Make sure it is a True RMS, probably Fluke (lifetime warranty).

If you do have one, take the fuse out of line, set the meter to resistance and place your leads on each side of the fuse.
 
Thanks for the help, but I figured it out, with the help of a multimeter.

The remote wire was actually touching a bolt, causing some type of interference. I just moved it out if the way and it now works fine. That wire cannot touch anything.
 
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