Noises & Buzzers Going into 4Low

[fxoffroad]

On day 2 of ownership, I went offroading in the mountains w/ my Limited - I put the vehicle into L4L (action: put the vehicle in neutral, foot applied to the break) turn knob to L4L. The vehicle made some crazy noises and beeped/buzzed like a seat belt warning. Drove a little bit, then stopped - neutral, back to 4HL - and then put it back into L4L and it was fine. Figured it was the first time, maybe that grinding sound and feeling is normal?

So today - take it up into the mountains again - repeat the same steps above and the vehicle does the same thing - only VERY loud noises. Typical?

I assume the DAC is applying braking action with the same equipment/mechanical stuff that controls the Anti-lock brakes? The DAC made all kinds of noises - so bad my wing man begged me to turn it off.

Then used the DAC (which I understand only works when you're in 4 Low (L4L) and there's all kind of noises as it slows makes its way down the trail - granted only a 2% grade or so.

Is all this normal?

 

[SeattleMike]

On day 2 of ownership, I went offroading in the mountains w/ my Limited - I put the vehicle into L4L (action: put the vehicle in neutral, foot applied to the break) turn knob to L4L. The vehicle made some crazy noises and beeped/buzzed like a seat belt warning. Drove a little bit, then stopped - neutral, back to 4HL - and then put it back into L4L and it was fine. Figured it was the first time, maybe that grinding sound and feeling is normal?

So today - take it up into the mountains again - repeat the same steps above and the vehicle does the same thing - only VERY loud noises. Typical?

I assume the DAC is applying braking action with the same equipment/mechanical stuff that controls the Anti-lock brakes? The DAC made all kinds of noises - so bad my wing man begged me to turn it off.

Then used the DAC (which I understand only works when you're in 4 Low (L4L) and there's all kind of noises as it slows makes its way down the trail - granted only a 2% grade or so.

Is all this normal?

If it sounds like a band of Dark Iron dwarfs banging on the backside of your engine with a bunch of hammers and pick-axes, I experienced the same thing with the doo-dads on the TE.

From the manual, page 221:

Sounds and vibrations caused by the active traction control system

l A sound may be heard from the engine compartment when the engine is
started or just after the vehicle begins to move. This sound does not indicate
that a malfunction has occurred in the system.

l Vibrations may be felt through the vehicle body and steering. This may
occur when the system is operating.

 

[1000MPH]

Yep, it freaked me out the first time I used crawl control on my TE. Bucking Bronco was how I would describe it. The other day my "hill start assist" came on for the first time, not like the really simple mechanical one on my old Subaru.
The funny thing was a little later on my ride I heard a chime that I couldn't figure out for a few seconds...then I realized it was the seatbelt warning. Years ago the seatbelt warning was the only thing that buzzed.

 

[BrianLSU]

On day 2 of ownership, I went offroading in the mountains w/ my Limited - I put the vehicle into L4L (action: put the vehicle in neutral, foot applied to the break) turn knob to L4L. The vehicle made some crazy noises and beeped/buzzed like a seat belt warning. Drove a little bit, then stopped - neutral, back to 4HL - and then put it back into L4L and it was fine. Figured it was the first time, maybe that grinding sound and feeling is normal?

So today - take it up into the mountains again - repeat the same steps above and the vehicle does the same thing - only VERY loud noises. Typical?

I assume the DAC is applying braking action with the same equipment/mechanical stuff that controls the Anti-lock brakes? The DAC made all kinds of noises - so bad my wing man begged me to turn it off.

Then used the DAC (which I understand only works when you're in 4 Low (L4L) and there's all kind of noises as it slows makes its way down the trail - granted only a 2% grade or so.

Is all this normal?

Well, that's odd, but every time I've gone to 4L was via 4H, not AWD directly to 4L. That might have been the problem, go to 4H first drive for 50' then go to 4L. That's what I do an have never had a problem.

Also, to those who may not know, per the manual, "make sure you engage your 4H or 4L at least 1 a month for (I think?) 10 miles to lubricate the transfer case".

 

[fxoffroad]

Well, that's odd, but every time I've gone to 4L was via 4H, not AWD directly to 4L. That might have been the problem, go to 4H first drive for 50' then go to 4L. That's what I do an have never had a problem.

You lost me... I assume by "AWD" you mean H4F. I'm talking about going into L4L - are you suggesting that you first need to go into H4L > then drive it 50' > then shift into L4L? I assumed you could go directly into L4L.

And am I right to think I can simply put the vehicle in neutral - then turn the dial to L4L when going from H4F?

 

[fxoffroad]

P.S. I still think all those crazy/scary sounds using the DAC is... err... funky... at the very least.

 

[453030]

And am I right to think I can simply put the vehicle in neutral - then turn the dial to L4L when going from H4F?

In this Toyota video, which maybe means nothing, they show it going to H4L first, and then to L4L. I assumed you could at least got to H4L while driving but the video says to stop for that too.

Toyota 4Runner - The all new 2010 4Runner is strong

 

[mpaquette]

The manual states that you can shift from H4F to H4L at any speed. From there it gets a little murky. It doesn't specifically state that you need to be in H4L before shifting into L4L, but it implies it with the examples it gives. Basically it says that to go from H4L to L4L, stop the vehicle, shift to N, push the unlock button and turn the switch to L4L. It does say to stay in N until the 4LO indicator turns on.

 

[BrianLSU]

You lost me... I assume by "AWD" you mean H4F. I'm talking about going into L4L - are you suggesting that you first need to go into H4L > then drive it 50' > then shift into L4L? I assumed you could go directly into L4L.

And am I right to think I can simply put the vehicle in neutral - then turn the dial to L4L when going from H4F?

Sorry man, I couldn't remember all the designations. But yes, from H4F you need to first go to H4L, allow it to engage, then switch to L4L. While still in Neutral, wait for the indicator to illuminate, then go. That's the way I've always done it and I've had zero problems. I've just never gone from H4F directly to L4L, just dumb luck.

The manual states that you can shift from H4F to H4L at any speed. From there it gets a little murky. It doesn't specifically state that you need to be in H4L before shifting into L4L, but it implies it with the examples it gives. Basically it says that to go from H4L to L4L, stop the vehicle, shift to N, push the unlock button and turn the switch to L4L. It does say to stay in N until the 4LO indicator turns on.

There must be a set of actuations that take place going between both H4F to H4L and H4L to L4L. Switching directly to L4L must screw something up.

 

[fxoffroad]

There must be a set of actuations that take place going between both H4F to H4L and H4L to L4L. Switching directly to L4L must screw something up.

Gotcha and thanks for the input. I guess this means I'll have to take tomorrow morning off and head up to the mountains and test it out. Gonna be painful missing work and all, but I think it's important to report back tomorrow afternoon with my findings.

:fro:

 

[Titanpat57]

Gotcha and thanks for the input. I guess this means I'll have to take tomorrow morning off and head up to the mountains and test it out. Gonna be painful missing work and all, but I think it's important to report back tomorrow afternoon with my findings.

:fro:

lol...ROADTRIP!!!!!!!:roadkill:


The first time I used the doodads it was terrifying, now I used the Crawl and 4WL several times...I don't sweat AS much.

 

[fxoffroad]

Sorry man, I couldn't remember all the designations. But yes, from H4F you need to first go to H4L, allow it to engage, then switch to L4L. While still in Neutral, wait for the indicator to illuminate, then go. That's the way I've always done it and I've had zero problems. I've just never gone from H4F directly to L4L, just dumb luck.

There must be a set of actuations that take place going between both H4F to H4L and H4L to L4L. Switching directly to L4L must screw something up.

Yup... this worked perfectly. Thanks again.Good to know, but a bit of a PITA. Still not digging all those frickin noises when using the DAC - perhaps you need to be going down a really steep grade - which I couldn't find today.

If it sounds like a band of Dark Iron dwarfs banging on the backside of your engine with a bunch of hammers and pick-axes, I experienced the same thing with the doo-dads on the TE.

LOL. That's exactly what it sounds like. Oh, and its a real blast when the DAC slams on the brakes and the entire vehicle shudders - seriously lovin' that - not.

 

[fxoffroad]

Went up to do some trails in San Isabel & Pike National Forests this weekend.

The DAC performed exceptionally well on steeper grades than I initially had tried - though all that feedback (both noise and shake) is a trip - but I really dig letting the vehicle do the braking - made things extremely easy. Though the entire vehicle sliding on some rocks wasn't so fun. Maybe time to get some real tires.