SkylineGTRracer
New member
Looking good so far what'r the next mods?
NorCal 2004 4Runner
- Thread starter Mad4Rnr
- Start date
Thanks, next mod definetly will be to pull the running boards and finish the stereo system.
My plan for the system is to install Infinity separates up front and coax's in the rear. Also a Sound-stream 5ch amp and 10" sub in a custom box molded in the right rear panel.
Unfortunately I won't be able to start the system until after the end of May because I'm preparing my RC rock crawlers for a competition in Montana.
It's been a few months since I worked on the Runner but a couple weeks back I got the itch to start modifying again. I started by getting a new exhaust system including a 50 Series Flow Master and a nice side output chrome tip, nice low rumble without being too obnoxious.
Then I bought some stereo gear in a late night buying spree.
From the left to the right, Monster 16AWG twisted quad for the the front components, twisted pair for the rear coax. 4AWG power and ground wire. Monster four pair RCA's and one two pair for the sub. Kicker 100 A fuse holder and battery terminals:
Kicker 10ZX700.5 amp, sub bass controller, 1 Farad capacitor and some Dynamat.
CDT Audio CL-62 components, CDT 6.5 coax, Kicker Comp CVR 10" dual VC 4 Ohm woofer that I got used from a buddy and I bought a new grill for.
My goal for this system is high sound quality on a moderate budget and minimal impact on stock storage and functionality. I just ordered a temporary sub enclosure but will eventually make a fiberglass enclosure for the passenger rear panel.
On to the install...
Then I bought some stereo gear in a late night buying spree.
From the left to the right, Monster 16AWG twisted quad for the the front components, twisted pair for the rear coax. 4AWG power and ground wire. Monster four pair RCA's and one two pair for the sub. Kicker 100 A fuse holder and battery terminals:
Kicker 10ZX700.5 amp, sub bass controller, 1 Farad capacitor and some Dynamat.
CDT Audio CL-62 components, CDT 6.5 coax, Kicker Comp CVR 10" dual VC 4 Ohm woofer that I got used from a buddy and I bought a new grill for.
My goal for this system is high sound quality on a moderate budget and minimal impact on stock storage and functionality. I just ordered a temporary sub enclosure but will eventually make a fiberglass enclosure for the passenger rear panel.
On to the install...
Last edited:
I started the install by gutting the inside of the truck, it didn't take too long at all but this ain't my first rodeo either.
I used the factory drivers to trace out the baffles on 1/2" MDF. I used 1/8" MDF for the tweeter mounting plate.
Then I busted out the heat gun and roller to help lay down some Dynamat on the front door. Also ran the twisted quad speaker wire into the doors using the factory boot
Same story but rear door
I used the factory drivers to trace out the baffles on 1/2" MDF. I used 1/8" MDF for the tweeter mounting plate.
Then I busted out the heat gun and roller to help lay down some Dynamat on the front door. Also ran the twisted quad speaker wire into the doors using the factory boot
Same story but rear door
I took the front cover off the sub bass controller and mounted the in the left hand switch bay of the center console using supplied hardware.
It always bugged me that the DAC switch is located in the center console so I decided to move it to the left side of the steering wheel. Just cut the plug and made a nice long harness. Also rewired the head unit harness so I could add a switch to open the illumination circuit in case I want to run day time running lights and not dim the screen.
I primed and painted the speaker baffles and then used foam tape to seal the back of the speaker and the back of the baffle, all bolted up they fit tight.
I ran the 4 AWG power wire through the the stock firewall grommet and to the kicker fuse holder. I had to fab a mounting bracket using 1-1/2" aluminum angle.
I ordered up a Optima 34R red top battery and installed it with 1 x 2" aluminum tubing under the hold down bracket. I ran a 4AWG ground wire from the chassis to Kicker battery terminals, they seem nice and fit well just hope the plastic covers hold up.
I installed the cross-overs for the components under the front seats and ran the speaker wire and power wire down the driver side.
I ran the RCA's, remote, and sub bass controller down the passenger side
And then quickly wired the amp to test the system.
It always bugged me that the DAC switch is located in the center console so I decided to move it to the left side of the steering wheel. Just cut the plug and made a nice long harness. Also rewired the head unit harness so I could add a switch to open the illumination circuit in case I want to run day time running lights and not dim the screen.
I primed and painted the speaker baffles and then used foam tape to seal the back of the speaker and the back of the baffle, all bolted up they fit tight.
I ran the 4 AWG power wire through the the stock firewall grommet and to the kicker fuse holder. I had to fab a mounting bracket using 1-1/2" aluminum angle.
I ordered up a Optima 34R red top battery and installed it with 1 x 2" aluminum tubing under the hold down bracket. I ran a 4AWG ground wire from the chassis to Kicker battery terminals, they seem nice and fit well just hope the plastic covers hold up.
I installed the cross-overs for the components under the front seats and ran the speaker wire and power wire down the driver side.
I ran the RCA's, remote, and sub bass controller down the passenger side
And then quickly wired the amp to test the system.
driffter33
New member
Nice and time consuming install on the sound system bet it sounds great.
Thanks drifter
Went ahead and mounted the cap to the seat back and then the amp with some 1/2" spacers so I could route the wires under the amp
Still need to strain relief the wires with some padded clamps but for now it works
To finish up I bought an off the shelf woofer enclosure because I probably won't get to build the fiberglass enclosure for another couple weeks.
Still need to tune it but all in all the system sounds great! Plenty of power, clean highs, rich mids, and tight bass.
Went ahead and mounted the cap to the seat back and then the amp with some 1/2" spacers so I could route the wires under the amp
Still need to strain relief the wires with some padded clamps but for now it works
To finish up I bought an off the shelf woofer enclosure because I probably won't get to build the fiberglass enclosure for another couple weeks.
Still need to tune it but all in all the system sounds great! Plenty of power, clean highs, rich mids, and tight bass.
So I haven't had the time to start the fiberglass enclose but I was able to install some Dynamat in the rear.
Just a couple small pieces on the driver side to dampen out the stray bass and road noise:
On the passenger side I used a lot more Dynmat since the enclosure will fill this cavity:
Last week end some more performance mods arrived, fist an aFe silver bullet throttle body spacer:
And also a aFe stage two cold air intake:
I hear the throttle body spacer doesn't really help performance at all, I think it does cut down on intake whistle though. The CAI sounds pretty cool and it really opened up the upper RPM range, seems like it hurt the off-the-line performance a little.
To fix this I decided to get a Underdog Racing Development MAF Sensor calibration unit. Since I live in Cali I wired the box using bullet connectors so I can easily disconnect it for smog:
Then a found a nice little spot for it in the passenger kick panel:
This truck now has awesome throttle response and the upper end is screaming all the way to 5k! This unit really rounded out the exhaust and intake mods, best performance upgrade so far!
Just a couple small pieces on the driver side to dampen out the stray bass and road noise:
On the passenger side I used a lot more Dynmat since the enclosure will fill this cavity:
Last week end some more performance mods arrived, fist an aFe silver bullet throttle body spacer:
And also a aFe stage two cold air intake:
I hear the throttle body spacer doesn't really help performance at all, I think it does cut down on intake whistle though. The CAI sounds pretty cool and it really opened up the upper RPM range, seems like it hurt the off-the-line performance a little.
To fix this I decided to get a Underdog Racing Development MAF Sensor calibration unit. Since I live in Cali I wired the box using bullet connectors so I can easily disconnect it for smog:
Then a found a nice little spot for it in the passenger kick panel:
This truck now has awesome throttle response and the upper end is screaming all the way to 5k! This unit really rounded out the exhaust and intake mods, best performance upgrade so far!
FireEngineer
New member
I wish I knew enough about electrical wiring and had the time/space to do my own audio set up!
Pretty impressive thus far!
Pretty impressive thus far!
100k mile update!
Been awhile since I did any work on this old rig so last week after the odo turned 100,000 miles I decided it deserved an upgrade. I've been needing new tires and been looking at the FJ's TRD/BFG wheel and tire package since they run the 265-75 R16 AT's, which is a nice small increase in diameter from stock. Not sure others noticed but after the earthquake in Japan these wheels all but disappeared from the market so last night when I just happened to check Craig's List I decided to jump on a way too good to pass up local deal. Only 3k miles on these bad boys, tires even still have the little nub's on them:
The wheels didn't have the TPMS but I think I can always swap the stems over from old wheels.
Like the size of these tires on the 4Rnr especially with my small lift but I may still need some wheel spacers to get the look right
Just after I took this photo I deleted the running boards, looks sick!
Been awhile since I did any work on this old rig so last week after the odo turned 100,000 miles I decided it deserved an upgrade. I've been needing new tires and been looking at the FJ's TRD/BFG wheel and tire package since they run the 265-75 R16 AT's, which is a nice small increase in diameter from stock. Not sure others noticed but after the earthquake in Japan these wheels all but disappeared from the market so last night when I just happened to check Craig's List I decided to jump on a way too good to pass up local deal. Only 3k miles on these bad boys, tires even still have the little nub's on them:
The wheels didn't have the TPMS but I think I can always swap the stems over from old wheels.
Like the size of these tires on the 4Rnr especially with my small lift but I may still need some wheel spacers to get the look right
Just after I took this photo I deleted the running boards, looks sick!
