Not enough lift from Eibachs. Spacer or higher clip for 5100s?

blairracd

New member
1999....Eibachs did not give me enough lift. Should I bump up a notch on the 5100s or just add a spacer? I have the 4R 5100s.
 
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4R 5100's have 4 notches (24-249730), tundra 5100 (24-188265) have 5 notches if I remember correctly, maybe there is an update part number change?, either way you can always go higher, the issue is how much preload on the coil used and ofcourse shock travel matched for coil used/intended lift purpose/weight and ride quality for use intended, it will always be a bit ruff the first week of breakin. I'm on the 3rd notch on 4Runner 5100's with original 99 coils on a 99 23" hub to wheelwell and it's boarder line to much preload on old original 99 coils, but good after it all settled with alignment. Toyota uses static bushings so they will need to be set with weight on all 4 wheels.
 
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either way you can always go higher, the issue is how much preload on the coil used and ofcourse shock travel matched for coil used/intended lift purpose/weight and ride quality for use intended, it will always be a bit ruff the first week of breakin. I'm on the 3rd notch on 4Runner 5100's with original 99 coils on a 99 23" hub to wheelwell and it's boarder line to much preload on old original 99 coils, but good after it all settled with alignment. Toyota uses static bushings so they will need to be set with weight on all 4 wheels.

I just want to be a little higher to level it out as I did get 3” in the back. I also plan to get a steel bumper next year.
 
Hub centre to fender will help, 4r billies have have 3 more notches so 1 up will gain approx 3/4" lift depending on preload to coil and spring rate of coil used and weight/intended use, not sure which part # shock you have if it only has 3 notches?.

I'm 3rd notch 23" front 4r Billy 99 coil, and 23.5" 4Runner Billy rear 906ome 1.5" spacer Eric's PCK, Steves SS front diff drop, rear body mounts and rear sway bar lift. + 1" Rogers RB body lift, so 24-24.5" stock uca aligned easy in spec, a close to level 4R with a PCK will ride better than with rake. Depending on what you used in the back, expect the rear to sag 1/2-1" over a year, or more if you carry a load of any sort.
 
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My new style 906x sagged 3/4"inch with zero added weight over a year(these should be less prone to sag than 890's) so I added 1.5" daystars and removed the coil bump stop to level me out, I expect the same results with the 890's or any rear coil over time(which raises the Q was the OEM coil bump left in place?). No hub to fender measurements, shock or coil part #'s so we can help you? The other concern is once you hit 23" hub to fender you run into cv boot rubing bellow issues, 24" and you start ripping boots unless brand new. Anything beyond 24" will be impossible to align in spec without adjustable uca. The height up front will change slightly if aligned, you want 0.02toe(0.04total), 0.0 to 0.2 camber, and 2.4 castor or more if you can get it outta the oem lca adjusters and pay the tech more under the table to get him to delve into it, these commonly seize causing more issues unless the tech points it out and cares what he does(this is extremely rare) usually they twist the oem static lower control arm bushing and it rides like crap and goes outta spec wearing tires shortly afterwards, so put in whiteline poly LCA bushings replace seized adjusters with oem and be done with it. And then you get into vibration issues from CV and driveshaft angle and possibly front diff needle bearing wear issue requiring a ECGS bronze oilite bushing replacement to try to sort it all out, so more info of your install is needed to offer any help that's related to your custom install, no crutial info no decently related help.
 
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My new style 906x sagged 3/4"inch with zero added weight over a year(these should be less prone to sag than 890's) so I added 1.5" daystars and removed the coil bump stop to level me out, I expect the same results with the 890's or any rear coil over time(which raises the Q was the OEM coil bump left in place?). No hub to fender measurements, shock or coil part #'s so we can help you? The other concern is once you hit 23" hub to fender you run into cv boot rubing bellow issues, 24" and you start ripping boots unless brand new. Anything beyond 24" will be impossible to align in spec without adjustable uca. The height up front will change slightly if aligned, you want 0.02toe(0.04total), 0.0 to 0.2 camber, and 2.4 castor or more if you can get it outta the oem lca adjusters and pay the tech more under the table to get him to delve into it, these commonly seize causing more issues unless the tech points it out and cares what he does(this is extremely rare) usually they twist the oem static lower control arm bushing and it rides like crap and goes outta spec wearing tires shortly afterwards, so put in whiteline poly LCA bushings replace seized adjusters with oem and be done with it. And then you get into vibration issues from CV and driveshaft angle and possibly front diff needle bearing wear issue requiring a ECGS bronze oilite bushing replacement to try to sort it all out, so more info of your install is needed to offer any help that's related to your custom install, no crutial info no decently related help.


The parts.... I stated I have the 4runner specific 5100s; BE5-D558-T0, with three grooves as. Eibach coils.
 
I know you stated that you had 4R specific 5100's but you said you only have 3 grooves, 24-249730 is 4R 5100 specific (4 groove), the D558 5100 is 1Gen Tacoma specific, 24-188265 1gen Tundra (5 groove) i think, maybe I'm wrong.
 
I have 5100's and stock front springs, and OME 890's in back. I don't know what perch they're on, but I have 21.5" hub to fender in front, so I assume at least a few perches up. I have Eibachs ready to go in the front once/if I start repairing my front end damage/get a steel bumper. I'm hoping to have 23.5"+ in front, so they'll be a few notches up.
 

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