Not so happy after Tundra brake install

[RyanSR5]

I replaced the calipers pads rotors and rear shoes on my 2000 4runner. Everything is new and I used the huge 13wl calipers.

#1 I can't bleed air out of the system. Fluid comes out clear of bubbles at all four corners, bled one at a time from furthest away from the MC to closest. Even tried bleeding the MC at the output lines. When engine is running and the brake is depressed I can hear an air gushing noise. When I stand next to the engine compartment and listen it seems to be comming from the ABS box when the pedal is depressed, then from the MC area when the pedal is let off??? When the engine is off, pressing the pedal once makes the air noise, then pressed again, it's gone with the pedal all the way at the top. I don't get it....

#2 There is a weird thumping sound comming from the passenger side caliper. Only happens at moderate to hard stops but somethings wrong there.

#3 Pulling slightly to the right also

 

[toyota1999]

RyanSR5,

Two things : First, I am sorry to hear about your Tundra brakes upgrade. I was contemplating doing it to my 1999 Toyota SR5, 4x4 also, but contained myself with the factory stock for my model.

Second, I am thankful that you posted your experience about for I can't stop thinking about it. But at least now, I can be rest assured that I made the right decision going with OEM 4runner brakes. I can use the extra savings dealing with my stalling issue with mine currently.

Thanks for posting and I am sure someone will jump in and address your issue here. I am new to the site but people here ( Toyota Owners ) are great. Good luck !

 

[RyanSR5]

Took the car to a local shop and the tech said the MC was shot after taking it for a spin. I told him that it wasn't leaking behind against the booster but he said they can leak internally also??? He also told me that the caliper that was making noise was installed incorrectly somehow. I checked it and it's fine. I'm thinking about returning it for another.

I have a mightvac bleeder and all it does is suck a bunch of air from around the bleeder threads and you can't tell what's actually comming out as air in the lines. I was just doing it the 2 person team way which wasn't producing any bubbles. Someone on another board mentioned pressing the brake REALLY hard to dislodge the bubbles. But either way I ordered a new MC.

 

[96743runner]

Sorry to hear about your problem!

But thanks a lot for posting this! I too was considering to do the tundra brake upgrade. I guess it would be better for me to keep the factory brakes on mine and save for something better.

 

[Charlee78]

Hi, did you try to bleed the front brakes with the ignition key at the on position? Maybe it will activate the abs solenoids and remove air inside of it, if there is air in it...

For you noise coming from one side, you can make sure the anti rattle clip dsen't push you pads upward, I've seen this before.

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

Wow, are some people considering really just dodging this mod because of one persons bad experience?

Everything has someone who has a bad experience, doesn't mean everyone does. Might as well stop driving at all, because someone told you they crashed.

I'm sure RyanSR5 will be happy when his stuff's done. I know I'll be doing it.

Strictly based on the amount of feedback, there's been a ton of successful conversions, rarely any unsuccessful.

Really, it's replies like "I think I'll stay away" or "I'm glad I have my old brakes" that sure support Ryan's decision, right? That's just gotta make him feel wonderful! Maybe Ryan's got more balls to try a mod that's difficult, or more functional than something stupid and aesthetic like most of the crap people seem to do. If I had the money, I'd have been all over this.

Sucks for your master cylinder Ryan. I hope once you get things straightened out, you'll love your brakes... your new, 231mm massive brakes.

 

[RyanSR5]

Hi, did you try to bleed the front brakes with the ignition key at the on position? Maybe it will activate the abs solenoids and remove air inside of it, if there is air in it...

For you noise coming from one side, you can make sure the anti rattle clip dsen't push you pads upward, I've seen this before.

I'll check that, but the clip is installed just like I've seen in other pictures. I'll snap a picture of mine.

 

[RyanSR5]

Right on, that's the spirit that I like to hear. I'll git er done!

Wow, are some people considering really just dodging this mod because of one persons bad experience?

Everything has someone who has a bad experience, doesn't mean everyone does. Might as well stop driving at all, because someone told you they crashed.

I'm sure RyanSR5 will be happy when his stuff's done. I know I'll be doing it.

Strictly based on the amount of feedback, there's been a ton of successful conversions, rarely any unsuccessful.

Really, it's replies like "I think I'll stay away" or "I'm glad I have my old brakes" that sure support Ryan's decision, right? That's just gotta make him feel wonderful! Maybe Ryan's got more balls to try a mod that's difficult, or more functional than something stupid and aesthetic like most of the crap people seem to do. If I had the money, I'd have been all over this.

Sucks for your master cylinder Ryan. I hope once you get things straightened out, you'll love your brakes... your new, 231mm massive brakes.

 

[juiceboxer]

I did the 231mm upgrade and it made a great difference. I do have a feeling that your mechanic is right in his assumption that the MC went out. Like you said, you tried bleeding it from the output lines and still had problems. That leaves the MC as a good place to start.

 

[RyanSR5]

I'll check that, but the clip is installed just like I've seen in other pictures. I'll snap a picture of mine.

Not a whole lot to screw up here. Just pins and clips.

 

[20_HiluxSurf_02]

#3 Pulling slightly to the right also

Every vehicle is made (in the US) to pull very slightly to the right just in case something happens to the driver and the car continues down the road. It's to avoid a head on collision. So, I think your setup is correct on that part.

 

[JohnsD90]

Every vehicle is made (in the US) to pull very slightly to the right just in case something happens to the driver and the car continues down the road. It's to avoid a head on collision. So, I think your setup is correct on that part.

well they would be screwed when u go into a "keep to the left" country, espically on the high end caddy's and the corvette that are exported to every country as LHD.

 

[toyota1999]

ChildrenOfBodom,

You have a good point there !

Although I believe this site is for Toyota 3rd generation owners to posts their experiences, issues, successes, suggestions, contributions and so on for others to draw from and probably solve same issue that they currently are facing. I am thankful to have found this site.

I did not post mine to degrade or frustrate RyanSR5. I was contemplating doing Tundra brake upgrade upon reading about it in 4WD Toyota owners magazine. I think it is cool to have that powerful brakes ! However, RyanSR5 posting about his experience tells me that doing the upgrades itself is not as easy as it sounds plus the money involved in doing so. I am not mechanically inclined. I can change pads and rotors though. I do minor stuff to my 4runner. Now if you start talking about master cylinder, weird thumping sound from the passenger side caliper, etc... I will have a hard time dealing with those unless I find a good mechanic to help me out.

By all means, if you want to upgrade yours, go ahead and keep your success posted here. You will never know, I will change my mind if I see that it can be done without dealing with a lot of issues. I like good stuff ( like the Tundra brakes ), but I keep things simple along the way.

By the way, I crashed once but I am still driving. It makes a good point to be careful and not crash again.

RyanSR5, thank you for posting and I am positive you will find the right mix to make all the components work in your brake upgrade. I will keep watch of your postings.

Cheers,

Walter, Las Vegas

 

[Kmvreter]

Not a whole lot to screw up here. Just pins and clips.

Not sure if it matters but should the spring clip be on the lower pin (that's how it is on my 4th Gen brakes of similar design.) Does rotation direction affect location of this spring?

 

[RyanSR5]

Not sure if it matters but should the spring clip be on the lower pin (that's how it is on my 4th Gen brakes of similar design.) Does rotation direction affect location of this spring?

Shouldn't matter. There were no directions with my calipers and I did a search to find pics of tundra brakes installed and that's what I saw. My driver's side operates fine.

I returned the passenger side caliper and another one will be here in 2 days. I'll report when that and the new MC come in and are installed. Made a homemade power bleeder from an ACE Hardware sprayer so I'll see how good my MacGyver skills are.

 

[97-4xFunner]

Ryan SR5,

I can completely understand you returning the R/H side because of the thumping sound, but generally when a vehicle is pulling to the right because of a brake issue, that indicates a problem on the left side. Replacing the MC sounds like an on track idea. I am hoping for the sake of avoiding any further frustration it will fix your issue with the air. If not, you may find yourself checking the abs. Which by the way some of those have the ability to be bled. Oh, and those brakes look *****en! That is probably IMO one of the more worth while mods I have seen on this site. Are you going to replace the MC yourself? One other thing. I am curious if you washed your rotors or used brake clean on them before you installed.

Good Luck

 

[RyanSR5]

Yes, I'm going to bench bleed it and install it myself. My ABS can't be bled. Was careful not to get the rotors greasy when installing them but showered them in brake clean just in case right before I put the wheels back on. I'm going to use my new power bleeder, speed bleeder valves at each corner, put a block of wood under the pedal to protect my MC from damage and have someone press the brake really hard to get rid of any bubbles. Should be full proof at that point as far as the air. I doubt a bunch of air in my lines is the problem anyway, it's probably the MC like my mechanic said.

Ryan SR5,

I can completely understand you returning the R/H side because of the thumping sound, but generally when a vehicle is pulling to the right because of a brake issue, that indicates a problem on the left side. Replacing the MC sounds like an on track idea. I am hoping for the sake of avoiding any further frustration it will fix your issue with the air. If not, you may find yourself checking the abs. Which by the way some of those have the ability to be bled. Oh, and those brakes look *****en! That is probably IMO one of the more worth while mods I have seen on this site. Are you going to replace the MC yourself? One other thing. I am curious if you washed your rotors or used brake clean on them before you installed.

Good Luck

 

[97-4xFunner]

Again, good luck. Deff. post your results.

 

[RyanSR5]

OK....replaced MC and caliper. Used my new homemade power bleeder (works awesome), air in the lines is a mute point now. Thumping noise still coming from passenger side. It's got to be the rotor. Stops like a mofo now but....

The brake line coming out of the MC toward the booster is seeping a little fluid after a test drive. It's an A-1 Cardone Master cylinder and I highly suggest staying away from this brand. The fist MC I got was missing parts, and had gouges all over it like it had been through hell. Not to mention that I was used already and was drenched in brake fluid??? I had to return it and the replacement wasn't much better. Same Cardone crap, looks like junk compared to my stock unit, and the bore must not have been perfectly true because even with the lines tightened to the old mechanics feel max, the rear line leaks a little. Man, I'm really looking forward to returning it and buying a more expensive quality one and then doing the bleeding process all over again. I think I'm going to :twak: someone. I don't know how they think they can get away with quality control that bad. Yeah I know it's not OEM but dude, maybe they can actually sell something that ACTUALLY WORKS? Something that would make me feel good about installing it on the family wagon?

Both calipers are alsonA-1 Cardone. My calipers and MC are made from cores that are absolute junk, bottom of the barrel, put together by ing monkeys!!!! The caliper that I returned was dragging and missing parts. The one that came in as a replacement was gouged all over and looks like crap. It does work OK but one of the piston boots was folded in so I had to pull it out before installing it. Since I returned one I have had the chance to see three of them and they all look like they were assembled at three different slave labor camps with whatever was laying around at the time. The one on my driver's side is gold with silver zinc bolts, the one on my passenger side is raw steel with raw steel bolts. The one I returned was raw steel with gold zinc colored bolts. I painted them both dark grey metallic so they wouldn't look like such rag muffin crap.

Don't even get me started now on Raybestos. I bought their top of the line advanced technology rotors, the ones that NAPA sells repackaged at top dollar, and it's warped out of the box. They are suposed to have less runout than OEM! I guess they forgot to check mine. As a matter of fact, just stay away from Kragen, Checker, Shucks, O'Rieleys, or whatever they are calling themselves these days. All they sell is crap. I know you get ripped at Toyota but look at what I've gone through. This has been ongoing to two weeks now.

 

[juiceboxer]

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the rotors and calipers? I went with NHT powdercoated rebuilt Calipers and they were flawless, used brembo blanks for the rotors. Just curious what the savings was, it doesn't seem like it was worth it . Sorry you have to go through such problems.