Nut Check
- Thread starter TXRick
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KidVermicious
New member
Yup, they're still there. Oh, you mean on your truck there?
I wanna say that's a 19mm nut, so the thread should be 14x1.5ish. But I wouldn't trust anything from Ace on there any longer than it would take to drive to the dealer and get a higher quality nut. In fact, clamp a vice grip on there and duct tape it to the control arm and drive it to the dealer like that.
I wanna say that's a 19mm nut, so the thread should be 14x1.5ish. But I wouldn't trust anything from Ace on there any longer than it would take to drive to the dealer and get a higher quality nut. In fact, clamp a vice grip on there and duct tape it to the control arm and drive it to the dealer like that.
thatoneguygeoff
New member
Check out McMaster-Carr. They have everything you need hardware wise
afg10000
New member
I agree. Adjustable control arm mount -
afg10000
New member
I'm not so much the engineering type but I'd imagine a little welding could reset the mount.
KidVermicious
New member
You could fill the hole with weld and drill it out. Or get a small piece of 3/8ths, drill a hole the right size, locate it on the control arm mount so the hole is in the right place and weld it on. Or use a weld washer: Weld Washers - RuffStuff Specialties
I think personally I'd weld a plate over it. There should still be room enough on the bolt for a nut and washer. If not, get a longer bolt. If that one's been slapping around in there you don't want to reuse it anyway.
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KidVermicious
New member
There's a time for cheap and a time for quality. The shit in the bins at Ace is all going to be China-made and of extremely dubious quality, even the grade 8. It probably is a $10 bolt at the dealer, if not more, and that's a small price to pay to know that a fairly critical part on the vehicle is made a supplier that's been vetted by Toyota.
MandAtaco
Member
I'd weld a plate or large thick washer on there and drill it out to proper size and placement.
I'm all for OEM stuff, but I'd be OK with a quality grade 8 bolt or equivalent hardness metric bolt as a replacement (I'm using grade 8 all over the suspension of my Willys).
BUT.... He has the bolt it looks like, so he only needs a nut anyway.
I'm all for OEM stuff, but I'd be OK with a quality grade 8 bolt or equivalent hardness metric bolt as a replacement (I'm using grade 8 all over the suspension of my Willys).
BUT.... He has the bolt it looks like, so he only needs a nut anyway.
TXRick
New member
Probably worn out on both sides...weld a plate on either side and re drill hole?
snivilous
Senior Member
He's asking for a nut for an OEM bolt :der: That nut ONLY holds the bolt from falling out, literally nothing else. You don't need a grade 8 nut, hell you don't need a grade 5 nut, let alone a fancy OEM nut.
And if you're replacing the bolt, I've replaced mine with a regular hardware store bolt. I bet even using a grade 5 bolt would result in the links bending/ripping apart before the bolt sheared, let alone a grade 8 so imo anything off the hardware store works fine.
Buy whatever you want, but don't spread misinformation that you need OEM hardware (for something that does next to nothing, in context of the OPs question) or you'll die.
And if you're replacing the bolt, I've replaced mine with a regular hardware store bolt. I bet even using a grade 5 bolt would result in the links bending/ripping apart before the bolt sheared, let alone a grade 8 so imo anything off the hardware store works fine.
Buy whatever you want, but don't spread misinformation that you need OEM hardware (for something that does next to nothing, in context of the OPs question) or you'll die.
LittleCaesar
New member
I read the subject line and expect to hear about the OP being cupped, turning his head sideways and coughing one or more times for the doctor.
OEM is the best IMHO and usually won't rust up or be made somewhere devoid of quality control. That said, he is probably fine with anything from the local hardware store.
OEM is the best IMHO and usually won't rust up or be made somewhere devoid of quality control. That said, he is probably fine with anything from the local hardware store.
KidVermicious
New member
He should replace the bolt, IMHO, because if it's rattled around in there enough to stretch the bolt hole it's probably not safe to reuse. I guess he could examine the thread and if the thread isn't jacked up he could assume that the bolt hasn't been unduly abused, but honestly bolts are cheap. Even OEM ones. I'd replace it on general suspicion.
And I have snapped multiple grade 5 and grade 8 hardware-store bolts before getting to torque, and I have rounded nuts in the same situation - those things come out of who-knows-what factory in who-knows-what country with who-knows-what quality control. They're ok for non-stress application or in multiples, but where there's just one bolt locating something critical like a control arm, why take chances? It ain't like we're talking hundreds of dollars difference here and there's no sense in being penny-wise and pound-foolish.
That's MHO, anyway. OP is free to take whoever's advice he'd like, no sense getting worked up over it.
Uh, only if you're damned sure you're drilling straight. I'd drill the holes in the plates first and then locate them on the truck. Spot weld and check for fitment before burning them in.
And honestly, it might not be necessary. Figure out what bolt you're going to use or reuse, and then get the control arm out of the way and see how much slop is there. A little slop is inherent and unavoidable, it's not the fit of the bolt but the clamping force of the bolt and nut that keep the whole setup from shifting. It looks like the outside is probably bad enough to need some love, but check it and the inside before you get ahead of yourself.
It's fascinating how the rest of the automotive world runs generic hardware bolts and non OEM parts and survives.
TXRick
New member
Holy crap. I didn't mean to start a war. The money difference isn't that much and the quality is hit or miss. If that ****er at the Toyota dealership didn't make my mom cry, then I'd be there getting a nut and a bolt from them. As it is, I'll run up to Ace and prolly try to find a thicker bolt or wait until next weekend when my buddy can come by with the welder.
