stir_fry_boy
New member
Anyone know the nut/socket size for the rear differential flange nut? Need to replace the oil seal behind the flange.
Nut/Socket size
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Konkordmusk
New member
It is a 30mm.
I would caution you against just gunning the nut off and back on. Unless you have a solid spacer, there is instead a crush sleeve which is sensitive to torque. The nut may require 250+ft/lbs of torque to achieve a rotating preload of 15in/lbs or so. You cannot check this with the ring gear in place. Good luck.
I would caution you against just gunning the nut off and back on. Unless you have a solid spacer, there is instead a crush sleeve which is sensitive to torque. The nut may require 250+ft/lbs of torque to achieve a rotating preload of 15in/lbs or so. You cannot check this with the ring gear in place. Good luck.
stir_fry_boy
New member
Do you know the torque? What is the proper sequence to replace that oil seal?
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Konkordmusk
New member
The torque is whatever is required to achieve a rotating preload of 8-15 INCH pounds. You will need a torque BEAM (not wrench) in order to check this. The true and proper way to replace that oil seal is to remove the third, remove the ring gear and check the current preload, and add an inch pound after removing and replacing the oil seal.
Some have reported success with carefully marking the location of the nut in relation to the pinion, and tightening it slightly past that mark once ready for reassembly. It's a gamble, I would never do it that way on mine or any customer cars. Overloading the preload on the bearings means accelerated failure of pinion bearings.
Some have reported success with carefully marking the location of the nut in relation to the pinion, and tightening it slightly past that mark once ready for reassembly. It's a gamble, I would never do it that way on mine or any customer cars. Overloading the preload on the bearings means accelerated failure of pinion bearings.
stir_fry_boy
New member
If I take it to the stealer, is that what they are really going to do? The FSM has a section on how to replace the oil seal. They don't show removing the 3rd.
Nate_GB
Member
The FSM shows at least 10 different special service tools for this job. I doubt any dealer technician would have the skill for this kind of work. It's more of a diff specialty shop job. FSM shows removing the pinion bearing and race to get to the "oil storage ring" as well.
Personally, I wouldn't even trust a dealer to do this job properly. I'd pull the third and send it off to a reputable gear company to have the work done. Or if you're lucky enough to have one nearby, you could take it there.
It looks like you are in Arizona. I think ZUK is in Arizona...? Maybe...
Konkordmusk
New member
The oil storage ring you're referring to is what we call a sling ring. It does nothing more than sling oil around as well as keeping it up towards the outer pinion bearing. If only replacing the oil seal, there is no need to remove or replace this ring.
I guess it depends on the integrity of the mechanic. At a dealership, a mechanic is going to think "This job calls for 4 hours, but I can just gun the nut off and on and get it done in 20 minute." All he will see is easy money.
No, a differential shop is going to be your best bet.
There are no special tools required for this job either, other than a torque beam/dial torque indicator.
Nate_GB
Member
Oil slinger and oil storage ring are listed separately and removed in two separate operations in the FSM. Obviously, I agree that a quality mechanic is necessary to do the job right. If you're keeping the 3rd member in the truck you'd need at least a couple of "specialized" tools, in my opinion, to avoid damaging surrounding components. You need to get the old seal out and the new one in without damaging it. All while the spline end of the pinion gear is sitting in your way. And then we still have the problem of setting preload. FSM says to torque the nut to 145 ft lbs and then it says to set preload. But it doesn't tell you how to set preload with everything together. It refers you to the section on setting preload with the diff out during a full rebuild... So that's a bit annoying.
Anyway, I think the moral of the story is that the only way to truly do it correctly is to remove the third member. Which I think would probably yield a more cost effective and reliable repair anyway. Assuming you can pull the diff yourself.
Can it be done in the truck. Yes. Results may vary though.
Konkordmusk
New member
I've probably done 50+ full rebuilds of Toyota 3rd members and still have yet to use any "specialized" tool. Pry bar to get the seal out, hammer to get it in. I've never had an issue with damaging the splines or threads on a pinion gear, whether I do it with the pinion pressed in already or not.
You cannot set preload with everything together; the ring gear must be removed since it has its own preload, carrier bearing preload.
Lastly, it is well known that Toyota was very inconsistent with the assembly of their differentials. Most that I have seen do not have a storage ring, but only an oil slinger.
stir_fry_boy
New member
My leak is not bad enough to warrant removal of the third member, taking it to a diff shop and having them replace a 7$ oil seal. I just barely noticed it. Not even a drop of oil. I’ll probably let it go until it gets worse. I’ll call around and see what a diff shop would charge me to change the seal so when I’m ready I can get it done.
If this was your truck, would you remove the third, take it to a shop to change the seal or do it yourself?
stir_fry_boy
New member
You are correct. The FSM is a little hard to understand in this area.
stir_fry_boy
New member
That's for the axle seals. This is the front diff seal
No, I'm not referring to the axle seal one.
He wrote one on transfer case output seal; but I guess this is on the other side of the diff you are working on, the TC side, not the rear 3rd member side. my bad.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...r-case-output-shaft-oil-seals-how-diyers.html
stir_fry_boy
New member
Called a differential shop and they want $80 to change the seal and set the correct pinion backlash. That's with a new crush sleeve. Another $80 plus parts to change the pinion bearings. Sound reasonable?
Prices are with me removing the 3rd member.
Prices are with me removing the 3rd member.
Scramble
New member
Sounds reasonable to me. Did you ever get that TRD emblem measurement? :doh:
