O2 sensors post cat?

[SixxiA]

I'm looking at pulling off the muffler right after the catalytic converter, but I don't want to piss off the 4R, so I'm wondering if there's any O2 sensors after the cat? I see one before the cat, but not after, and that's what I'm hoping for.

Also, anyone know how to get the spare tire down without the original emergency tire swap kit?

One mo' thang: is there a good place to route a line of 1/0 gauge cable and another line of 5 gauge through the firewall?

Thanks.

 

[n8buddy]

i am pretty sure there is only the one O2 sensor and its before the cat. not sure about the spare tire, maybe a long wrench of some kind?
as for the 1/0 cable, the only way i know of that it somewhat accessible, is on the driver side, tucked away beside the brake booster.
it is a pretty large grommet, but if would be tough getting a cable that size through it.
I personally have one 2 gauge plus a couple smaller wires (14 gauge or so), and it went through fairly easy. what are you planning to hook up?

 

[SixxiA]

2 AudioQue 2200D's linked on 2 18" HDC3 subwoofers. And then a 5 gauge run to the Kicker ZX350.4 to power the component speakers.

180 amp alternator, the biggest I could find for this truck. =[

I may have to drill through the firewall.

I'll pull off the muffler later today, thanks!

 

[hickory]

spare tire

I had to grind and drill and hammer to get the spare tire out of there. I made up a home made system that uses a long Bolt with a loop on the end that ties into the old box. A nut, plate and spring clip holds the tire up there now

 

[n8buddy]

2 AudioQue 2200D's linked on 2 18" HDC3 subwoofers. And then a 5 gauge run to the Kicker ZX350.4 to power the component speakers.

180 amp alternator, the biggest I could find for this truck. =[

I may have to drill through the firewall.

I'll pull off the muffler later today, thanks!

your best bet might be to run along the frame rails and drill up into the side panels in the trunk, because i know even 2 gauge barely fits inside the door sills. did you or are you planning to upgrade the + to alternator and - chassis ground?

 

[SixxiA]

your best bet might be to run along the frame rails and drill up into the side panels in the trunk, because i know even 2 gauge barely fits inside the door sills. did you or are you planning to upgrade the + to alternator and - chassis ground?

Yup. Big 3 upgrade in 1/0 Gauge and a 180amp alternator. I may just run the cable under the floor of the vehicle. I'm not too opposed to that idea since, as long as no one can see it, no one will know it's there and know that they can cut it. Plus, great insulation and good ride height, all I have to worry about is vandals. (No bottoming out and shorting the cable.)

Hell, I might just see if I can run small conduit under there.

 

[n8buddy]

did you do the + to alternator wiring yourself? Ive been thinking about doing it and it looks like a pain, stupid cramped engine bay.

I just noticed you are a Mobile Electronics Tech, so do you fix/install car electronics all the time?

 

[SixxiA]

did you do the + to alternator wiring yourself? Ive been thinking about doing it and it looks like a pain, stupid cramped engine bay.

I just noticed you are a Mobile Electronics Tech, so do you fix/install car electronics all the time?

No doubt that this was the worst alternator wiring I've done. The previous owner used RTV!@#%&* to HOLD THE DAMNED CONNECTOR IN THERE! Anyway, aside from him being a dumbass, I have the engine almost totally out, so it's not going to be a problem doing the new wiring, but without pulling the engine, sir, you'll be looking at bloody knuckles, 2 or more 6 packs and a helluva lot of sweat and cuss words. Litterally, the 70 amp alternator in there is almost not worth it, in the sense that you'll only be gaining a few amps here and there. I'm upgrading it to a 180amp alt and so I had to upgrade the wiring anyway, but doing this job right, I'd recommend as long as you're down there, replace the alternator with a high-output to make it worthwhile. A 150 amp alt is $220 and you can sell the old alternator for something like $40-$50. It's not that bad for me, since I'll be running audio + heavy lighting + winch, and provided I'm in the middle of no where on some mountain, with no one around, I might crack open a bottle or two and run them all at the same time!

The T4R (2nd gen AND 1st gen) were all designed with crap alternators. Just like all stock alternators of the time. Usually, passenger cars of that time came with 40-80 amp alternators, compared to now, usually around 135 amps stock.