Odd occurence I need help with

D

Deputy1211

New member
Toyota forerunner 2001 2wd
151,547 miles at time of this incident.

Woke up and battery was dead. Got jumped off and drove to walmart to replace battery. No issues with the drive there. Removed battery and took into walmart. They installed a compatible replacement in the next 30 mins.

THen I drove home....only to discover that my shifting seemed off. Like the acceleration was sluggish almost fighting me back. Then when it finally shifts into first gear it gives you quite a jolt (like when a teen driver is learning to apply the brakes and you fly forward a little in your seat). Other than this it seems ok but what is up with the shifting??? Called around and was told to wait till I got past 100 miles as the computer might need to reset/recalibrate,etc. NOw at 136 and still no change. Can get up to the upper speeds 65/70 and no rpm problems, temp is good, starts right up now etc.

WTH?? SUggestions, thoughts, theories, are all welcome.
DOn't want to take this into a mechanic not knowing a thing or they'll certainly take me for all they can.

Thanks
 
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Come on guys, I don't think correcting him on his spelling is helping him solve his problem with the truck........:infidel:

It sounds to me like your transmission is doing what mine does. Mine only does it after initial start up, but I was told its some kind of sensor in the transmission that needs to reach a certain temperature before it will allow the transmission to shift properly. I don't know if it's true, but after a few minutes, the transmission shifts smoothly.
 
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In my job I deal with immature people who can't answer simple questions on a daily basis so no prob. there.

As to the one poster who actually took the time to answer my question I thank you. Did this problem get better? Worse? Self correct over time or is it something I'm gonna have to live with?

Anyone else wanting to chime in (with an answer that is) would be great.

Thanks
 
If you took the time to actually read my whole post, you would have seen that I did try to help you. But we need some clarification first.

So, since you missed it the first time, when was the last time you flushed the transmission?


And hey, everyone has trouble spelling (i can never get 'definatly' right). But when the word is in big leters at the top of the page and is the whole focus of the website, ouch. But regardless, you have an issue with your 4runner and we will all try to help you fix it.
 
Mine used to do the same thing, when I was coming back from vegas I found out that 2 out of the 3 shift solenoids in the transmission went out. It would drag from 1st 2nd gear then once I hit 3rd gear 30-40 mph+ It would be fine. So I replaced those out which were expensive from the dealer $700+ because I replaced all and flushed out the transmission fluid and it has been fine ever since. I now wait about 30secs-1min to let the truck warm up before I drive. I hope that helps.
 
I would start with a Tranny fluid and filter change. See how that does. If problem persists I would then look along the lines of Atreyus problems. If you do go the route of Solenoids I would recommend IPT transmissions. You can get a custom tuned valve body with new solenoids in it for around $600.
 
If your problem ONLY happened after a battery replacement, I would not think it was your transmission.

I was talking to a ace mechanic about 4runners and one thing he brought up may be the solution to your problem.

He said that when your 4runner is cold to remove the battery cables and let it sit for a hour or so, so all residual voltage gets used up. Then reconnect the cables and upon cranking to go straight to a highway and drive for about 10 miles at a steady speed of 60 to 70.

His reasoning was that the computer will reset the "home" driving conditions including fuel usage, shift points and the like. If I remember correctly he said it takes like 7 miles at a steady speed for the computer to relearn the driving condtions, that is why I said drive for about 10.

This conversation occurred when talking about fuel consumption of my 98 4runner. This is what he suggested I do to improve the fuel economy as my 4runner was purchased used and the battery has never been disconnected since my purchase.

Good Luck!!
 
Sig220 said:
If your problem ONLY happened after a battery replacement, I would not think it was your transmission.

I was talking to a ace mechanic about 4runners and one thing he brought up may be the solution to your problem.

He said that when your 4runner is cold to remove the battery cables and let it sit for a hour or so, so all residual voltage gets used up. Then reconnect the cables and upon cranking to go straight to a highway and drive for about 10 miles at a steady speed of 60 to 70.

His reasoning was that the computer will reset the "home" driving conditions including fuel usage, shift points and the like. If I remember correctly he said it takes like 7 miles at a steady speed for the computer to relearn the driving condtions, that is why I said drive for about 10.

This conversation occurred when talking about fuel consumption of my 98 4runner. This is what he suggested I do to improve the fuel economy as my 4runner was purchased used and the battery has never been disconnected since my purchase.

Good Luck!!
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My fuel economy has sucked as of late too. Initially it was because of bad catalytic converters and/or possibly O2 sensors (replaced front, not rear). Now its probably worse cause I'm getting so high on RPM's just to change gears when I drive to work and back. Tried what you suggested and No-Go on it getting better. Was afraid of that and will be taking it in tomorrow for an assessment on wtf is wrong with it. Then I'll start looking at the great odessy of paying for all these issues during the holidays so I can be road ready and properly tagged (we require emissions testing here) before mid January. Ughhhh.
 
Sorry to hear all that.:bash:

I revisited the mechanic and upon further talking there are soooo many parameters that have to be met for the puter to relearn. This if from memory which is the greatest so bear with me.........:wow2:

Cold engine start, cannot idle for more then 3 minutes for warm up, windows must be up and cannot unlock with remote, must ease up to highway speed and maintain it for XXX long, after going XX far you must engage the towing(ECT?) if equipped, allowing to shift gears without high revs, then there was something about engaging the A/c as well.

At first glance it sounded like a easy thing to do, but after the second talk, I was going WTF.......couldn't remember half the directions as I walked off:bash:

Anyway, if I were a betting person that is what I think your issue is just a shame I can't get the directions down for you.

Good Luck and may whoever diagnoses it take your pocketbook lightly!! :)
 
I would service the transmission with new fluid and filter and hope that fixes the problem... keep us posted with the results.
 
Changed auto transmission fluid and filter at 135,000 miles. At the time of this being done there were no issues such as metal shavings in pan, etc. Change out went smooth and drove on about my business. Now at 152,000.

Took it in to be checked today at a local place. They said it was misfiring (which would account for what sounded like backfires when it would first start being driven out of our subdivision) and it was probably the sparkplugs and wires. I informed them that I installed 6 new autolite plugs and a Duralast wiring set (with lifetime warranty) at 134,200 miles. Gapped them correctly, used anti-seize compound and all that. Seems odd it would run well and then start having issues at 152,000????

Already knew I had issues with my O2 sensor and they said the diagnostic turned up my MAF was needing replacement. I recently cleaned it at 140,000 but they said they don't clean them they just replace them. They quoted $391 to replace MAF and $351 to replace O2 sensor.

I know I can't do the catalytic converters myself and the jury is still out on what this misfiring issue is but I'm looking at Autozone.com and they have the O2 sensor for $179 (Bosch not denso) and the MAF for $145 (then apparently I get back the $65 core charge when I bring them my old one? am I interpreting that correctly??). I am sure I can do the O2 sensor myself, how difficult is the MAF to replace? ANy links to a thread on it? In any case I'm gonna be spending some serious bucks on this beast as it needs tires and brakes soon as well.
 
Deputy1211 said:
Already knew I had issues with my O2 sensor and they said the diagnostic turned up my MAF was needing replacement. I recently cleaned it at 140,000 but they said they don't clean them they just replace them. They quoted $391 to replace MAF and $351 to replace O2 sensor.

I know I can't do the catalytic converters myself and the jury is still out on what this misfiring issue is but I'm looking at Autozone.com and they have the O2 sensor for $179 (Bosch not denso) and the MAF for $145 (then apparently I get back the $65 core charge when I bring them my old one? am I interpreting that correctly??). I am sure I can do the O2 sensor myself, how difficult is the MAF to replace? ANy links to a thread on it? In any case I'm gonna be spending some serious bucks on this beast as it needs tires and brakes soon as well.
Click to expand...

That is really high for O2 sensors. You are just replacing the rear sensor right? Amazon has it for under $60 for the Denso. Don't bother with Bosch.

The OEM MAF only costs $120. Where are you getting these prices?
 
Deputy1211 said:
Changed auto transmission fluid and filter at 135,000 miles. At the time of this being done there were no issues such as metal shavings in pan, etc. Change out went smooth and drove on about my business. Now at 152,000.

Took it in to be checked today at a local place. They said it was misfiring (which would account for what sounded like backfires when it would first start being driven out of our subdivision) and it was probably the sparkplugs and wires. I informed them that I installed 6 new autolite plugs and a Duralast wiring set (with lifetime warranty) at 134,200 miles. Gapped them correctly, used anti-seize compound and all that. Seems odd it would run well and then start having issues at 152,000????.
Click to expand...


That very well could be your issue. You should only use dual electrode plugs in the 3.4. There's actually a sticker on the front of the engine that says so (if it's still there on yours). Duralast is junk too, you should only use NGK or Denso plugs and wires (and all electronics/sensors). Here's a pic of the sticker:
DSC00646.jpg~original


Deputy1211 said:
Already knew I had issues with my O2 sensor and they said the diagnostic turned up my MAF was needing replacement. I recently cleaned it at 140,000 but they said they don't clean them they just replace them. They quoted $391 to replace MAF and $351 to replace O2 sensor.
Click to expand...

They are taking advantage of you. I have cleaned my MAF about 5 times in the last 10 years. 204K on it and no problems. I felt noticeable improvement every time I've cleaned it. There are lots of write ups on how to clean it, it takes about 10 minutes. Here's a good one:
Toyota 4Runner Highlander Mass Air Flow Sensor MAF cleaning
Only use MAF cleaner or CRC electrical cleaner. (You should ask that shop, "Why would they make MAF cleaner if your not supposed to clean them?") See what they say about that, haha.

Deputy1211 said:
You can get Denso (OEM) 02 sensors from sparkplugs.com for a fraction of that price. I would not go back to that shop, they are either lying or they don't know what they're doing - or both.

I know I can't do the catalytic converters myself and the jury is still out on what this misfiring issue is but I'm looking at Autozone.com and they have the O2 sensor for $179 (Bosch not denso) and the MAF for $145 (then apparently I get back the $65 core charge when I bring them my old one? am I interpreting that correctly??). I am sure I can do the O2 sensor myself, how difficult is the MAF to replace? ANy links to a thread on it? In any case I'm gonna be spending some serious bucks on this beast as it needs tires and brakes soon as well.
Click to expand...

Toyotas DO NOT like Bosch parts. If you use only NGK and/or Denso parts, I guarantee your 4runner will run longer and healthier than if you don't. The proof is in the sheer amount of people who have problems with other brands. Check out sparkplugs.com for all that kind of stuff, they're way cheaper. You have to remove the MAF to clean it so the labor is the same whether you clean it or replace it, but seriously, try cleaning it 1st.

I really, really think it's those cheap Autolite plugs and Duracrap wires you got in there that are causing your miss. In this engine, the plugs fire on the comp and the exhaust stroke so single electrode plugs wear out twice as fast... and even the duals are supposed to be changed every 24K. Try that 1st.

I will never buy anything Bosch ever again in my Toyota. I cooked one of their plugs a few years ago after 1 year/12K: (yes it was a single electrode)
Boschplug.jpg~original
 
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Nelsonmd said:
That is really high for O2 sensors. You are just replacing the rear sensor right? Amazon has it for under $60 for the Denso. Don't bother with Bosch.

The OEM MAF only costs $120. Where are you getting these prices?
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The front and rear sensor. The front being the more expensive. I bought them both at autozone and while I know not to put bosch plugs in my 4runner they pretty much assured me that the O2 sensors aren't that much of a difference besides price. Anything is gonna be better then what I have now.

UPDATE: Shop said the problem was MAF and plugs. They said the autolites were not holding up and were wrong for the vehicle. My bust for going cheap at walmart. They quoted $616 for the parts and labor to correct. I bought 6 plugs, MAF sensor, upstream & downstream O2 sensors and an air filter for $388 before my $65 refund for core charge on MAF. Will do the work tonight when the family is asleep. I'll worry about the catalytic converters in the coming weeks.
 
Deputy1211 said:
The front and rear sensor. The front being the more expensive. I bought them both at autozone and while I know not to put bosch plugs in my 4runner they pretty much assured me that the O2 sensors aren't that much of a difference besides price. Anything is gonna be better then what I have now.

I highly recommend not getting advice from Autozone or any parts store. They aren't mechanics.

UPDATE: Shop said the problem was MAF and plugs. They said the autolites were not holding up and were wrong for the vehicle. My bust for going cheap at walmart. They quoted $616 for the parts and labor to correct. I bought 6 plugs, MAF sensor, upstream & downstream O2 sensors and an air filter for $388 before my $65 refund for core charge on MAF. Will do the work tonight when the family is asleep. I'll worry about the catalytic converters in the coming weeks.
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Yeah, I figured the plugs we the issue. That shop is taking you for a ride man -espacially on the labor. All that stuff could be done in 1-1.5 hours. Do one thing at a time and see what fixes the issue and stop there. Any shop that says it was all those things all at the same time is just replacing anything that could be suspect - not diagnosing the issue to see which of those possible culprits is the actual issue. Chances of the MAF, plugs, wires, and 02s all going bad at the same time? ~.001%
 
I really, really think it's those cheap Autolite plugs and Duracrap wires you got in there that are causing your miss. In this engine, the plugs fire on the comp and the exhaust stroke so single electrode plugs wear out twice as fast... and even the duals are supposed to be changed every 24K. Try that 1st.
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Crap so Duralast wires also suck?? What would be a good set that won't make my truck piss its pants?

Yeah, I figured the plugs we the issue. That shop is taking you for a ride man -espacially on the labor. All that stuff could be done in 1-1.5 hours. Do one thing at a time and see what fixes the issue and stop there. Any shop that says it was all those things all at the same time is just replacing anything that could be suspect - not diagnosing the issue to see which of those possible culprits is the actual issue. Chances of the MAF, plugs, wires, and 02s all going bad at the same time? ~.001%
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I know the O2's need to be replaced because they are WAY past the maint. log replacement date so I figured I'd hit that tonight too. Already replaced the MAF and removed 6 plugs and installed 2 of the new ones. Taking a break to hang out with the wife before continuing.
 
Deputy1211 said:
Crap so Duralast wires also suck?? What would be a good set that won't make my truck piss its pants?
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NGK #TE66 or Denso #671-6182 ONLY.

Deputy1211 said:
I know the O2's need to be replaced because they are WAY past the maint. log replacement date so I figured I'd hit that tonight too. Already replaced the MAF and removed 6 plugs and installed 2 of the new ones. Taking a break to hang out with the wife before continuing.
Click to expand...

I had trouble in the past with Bosch 02s so I would highly recommend taking them back and getting NGK/Denso. Autozone sucks IMO - their parts and their knowledge. I would buy online, OEM, or Napa if you're going to use an aftermarket part. I would also highly recommend replacing one thing at a time so you can test it out between each item and determine what the problem actually was. If you replace 5 things all at the same time, the truck may be fixed, but you still don't know what caused the issue if it happens again, you're back to square 1.
 
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