OEM Engine/transmission mount replacement

I updated my original post with how I replaced my engine/trans mounts & added some pictures. Hope it provides a little help for anyone trying to tackle this job.
 
Thanks for this super helpful thread!

How was the condition of the mounting plates when you took them off your old mounts? I was planning to replace those as well, then I saw this thread and realized they were metal.
 
Thanks for this super helpful thread!

How was the condition of the mounting plates when you took them off your old mounts? I was planning to replace those as well, then I saw this thread and realized they were metal.

Glad to help. My metal plates were in good condition. If yours aren't rusted I wouldn't see a need to replace them. I wasn't exactly sure what all i needed either initially...just took a gamble & got the mounts only and turned out thats all i needed.
 
Thanks for posting this. I suspect I need to replace at least some major bushings for engine, trans, and front diff with the miles I have. Last oil change I noticed one of the front drive train support bushings is in need of repair, looks like oil drains on it every time it's changed.

My driver side engine mount was covered in oil too. Never realized the little bit of oil that would drip during a filter change was dripping right onto the mount. Luckily it wasn't destroyed by the oil but i will be more mindful of it during future oil changes.
 
My driver side engine mount was covered in oil too. Never realized the little bit of oil that would drip during a filter change was dripping right onto the mount. Luckily it wasn't destroyed by the oil but i will be more mindful of it during future oil changes.

I got around to looking up the front differential mount bushings today... Toyota only sells the bracket assembly for each side (about $100 each), can't buy just the bushing.

Part Numbers for 1997 V6 (found on this forum) -
Differential Carrier Support, Left - 52380-35050
Differential Carrier Support, Right - 52380-35040
 
Glad to help. My metal plates were in good condition. If yours aren't rusted I wouldn't see a need to replace them. I wasn't exactly sure what all i needed either initially...just took a gamble & got the mounts only and turned out thats all i needed.

glad to hear. This should save myself $60 from buying unnecessary parts.
 
Thanks for this write-up. You did an excellent job. I was thinking of just replacing my trans mount because the rubber mounts look cracked and I'm suspecting some of my rear end clunk isn't all attributed to the slip yoke binding issue. But, since the engine and trans are connected, a worn out trans mount means my engine mounts are probably worn out as well and it would be smart to replace them too.
 
Thanks FOURFIVE for your write up

Thanks to [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] Tim & I used his technique to lift the Engine with a 2X4 to allow the mounts to clear without damaging the Engine Oil Pan...\





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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/g_4DiywsSbk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Thanks to [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] Tim & I used his technique to lift the Engine with a 2X4 to allow the mounts to clear without damaging the Engine Oil Pan...\

Thanks for the mention and posting your video here. I think seeing the video version will be a lot more helpful than just the write up.

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] & [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION], great job on the video. :cheers:
 
1. Standard 17mm socket for the engine mount to engine mount bracket nut (just one nut for each mount that is *13ft/lbs).
...
*I got the torque specs from the sticky so hopefully I looked up the right ones but due to the limited space, I was only able to reach the 17mm nut and 1 14mm bolt on each mount with my torque wrench.

Nice writeup, but this torque spec should be updated. The FSM doesn't have a spec for the 17mm head nut, in either 5vz or 3vz manuals, which is the spec I came here looking for. Had zipped mine off with an impact figuring they'd be on my printout and they weren't. Then remembered I had my 5vz set still attached so put a torque wrench on in reverse and went in increments, stopping and dialing it up every time it clicked. 17mm nut didn't break free until 73 ft/lb. They had a little rust so might be a little high there but definitely need to be a lot more than 13 ft/lb, I'll probably torque mine to 50 or 60.

I think the 13ft/lb you were looking at is for the rear mount insulator bolts, which are much smaller and there are four of them.
 
Good point. I still haven't been able to find the torque spec for the 17mm nut in the FSM but since the 14mm nuts/bolts on the same mount are 28ft/lbs (which I confirmed in the FSM), it makes sense that the 17mm nut is probably at least more than that. I made the edit in my original post.
 
Often, in the absence of factory spec, you can refer to a fastener torque chart. An important distinction that must be made is that metric fasteners are sized (just as fractional fasteners) by the diameter of the threaded portion, not the wrench size.

I'm always a little put out by comments referring to a fastener size described by the wrench size. Rant over.

metric-bolt-head-wrench-size-table-john-metric-bolt-cap-screw-torque-values-u-spec-chart-yield-bolt-torque-chart.jpg
 
^Good chart to have. I hear ya, and try to refer to them by "Xmm head" nut/bolt, at least. If someone says M10 nut not many people would know which one they're talking about, without busting out the micrometer or committing all the shaft-head conversions to memory.

On this nut I wound up torquing to between 30-40 ft/lb, BTW. Engine is out so I was getting an uncomfortable amount of flex in the mount going that high, and took a chunk out of a corner of one of the rubber stops when it slipped. Torqued while holding on frame mounts with a couple bolts stuck through the holes but it was a little precarious. If the engine weight was holding them from twisting somewhat I probably could've gone higher, but good enough.
 

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