Oh No.. another synthetic oil question (searched)

C

crs996

New member
So I've searched on the synthetic oil posts, but can't find the exact answer to this question.

Has anyone switched to synthetic oil in their 3.4L 4Runner at or around 100k and had leaking seal issues?

Please lets not get into dino vs. syn, I am fine with both, just wondering if anyone has experienced this. I've read several accounts of this happening, and since I have zero leaks at the moment, I'd like to keep it that way!
 
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I have not experienced any problems and im at 160k started with royal purple 5w-30 since 12k. Even if you did ive heard switching to a heavier weight like 10w you shouldnt have any problems.
 
At about 80K, I switched from Castrol Syntec Blend to full Castrol Syntec (always 5W-30). I am at 120K now and no leak problems of any kind. I switched up because the price differential had become much less than when I started in '99.
 
I went from Castrol to Mobil 1 5w30 and I had never leaked once... and I'm at 210k..

I switched because we have used Mobil 1 in all of our family vehicles. Is an solid performing oil and when it was on sale at Costco, It was like $24 dollars for 6 quarts.
 
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I switched to Mobil 1 at 75k, I now have 146k with no problem.

In my Fiero I started using Mobil 1 at around 150k, and she's up around 250k now with no leaks. (And we all know how much the 80's GM cars like to leak)

I'm starting to think this is just a myth...I'm gonna e-mail the mythbusters :bigok:
 
I'm about to switch my truck to mobil 1. I just bought it with 110,000 on it and I will report any new found leaks, however I doubt it.
 
I commited the syn at 97k back in late '04 and 5 years and 57,000 miles later I have zero leaks and the engine barely burns any oil between my 7500 mile oil change intervals.

I also had the right side valve cover off just in October and everything looked very good underneath for the miles and age of the engine.
 
Thanks for the great replies everyone. I am interested in switching because of the sludge/varnish removing properties of the detergents in synthetic.

Is there another effective way to remove these besides going synthetic??
 
crs996 said:
Thanks for the great replies everyone. I am interested in switching because of the sludge/varnish removing properties of the detergents in synthetic.

Is there another effective way to remove these besides going synthetic??
Click to expand...

I looked into products to use to clean old engines. I bought my 2004 with 41,000 miles on it and wanted to go with sythetic oil, but considered these products to use BEFORE I did it.

Auto-Rx Internal Engine Cleaner Sludge Remover, Transmission Motorcycle Diesel. Reduces Emissions
I have read about this stuff on bob is the oil guy web site. It looks like it could clean the engine up pretty good, but it is kind of a hassle to use and it is costly.

Rislone Engine Treatment
I thought of using this stuff, but it sounds too much like snake oil, voo doo.


I ended up just going with Mobil 1 and changing it quicker the first few times. It seems to be doing just fine.

I might mention that one member mentioned a deal on Pennzoil Platinum. It says it can " clean out 46% sludge in the first oil change".

Pennzoil - Not just oil, Pennzoil

Since I got a re-bate on it, I bought some and will use it for the next oil change in the 2004. It is now running cleaner, but if there is some sludge or build up, I figured this may help. Then I will go back with Mobil 1.

Bottom line, these products may wrok, but sticking with sythetic oil may be the way to go.
 
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I also read on the Yotatech forums about people using 1/2 to 1 quart of ATF in the crankcase to clean everything out. Has anyone here tried this?
 
There have been a few issues with high mileage engines using dino switching to full syn and developing some leaks. Typically, those leaks are the result of the synthetic oil removing some varnish and other buildup that have themselves become part of the seal. I've also heard that switching back to dino would most likely eventually allow the leak to reseal.

I changed the ex's Camry over to syn at about 75,000 miles and it developed a very minor leak-by at the valve seal that caused a very smull puff of smoke at startup but no other problem. After we split up, she went back to dino. My younger son has that car now and it doesn't "puff" smoke anymore.

Bottom line; I'd put the dino in and keep my eyes on things. Worse comes to worse, go back to dino. I ran dino in my 2nd gen with 3,000 -4,000 mile oil changes (and FRAM filters! Imagine THAT!), put 205,000 miles with no issues on it and my buddy is still using dino and has over 350,000 miles on the engine. My 3rd gen started on dino at 25,000 miles with 8,000 - 10,000 mile oil changes and I sold her last year with 152,000 miles and not one problem. And I've been using M1 in the 4th gen since 4,000 miles.

But my Mustang gets Amsoil...
 
Have had my 02 for about 6,000 miles. 128,000 and I changed the oil at 5,000 with Valvoline High Mileage 5W-30. I know there are people that swear by Mobil 1, but I have always had luck with Valvoline products. No leaks yet, the engine is very clean.
 
Thanks for all the answers, I made the switch this evening to a full synthetic. Filter placement is a PITA, lol. I mainly was interested in synthetic for the sludge/varnish removal properties, and also because this 4Runner will be doing mainly short trips and city driving in 100 degree plus summer temps, which syn handles better I believe. Regardless of syn or dino, doesn't a fresh oil change make an engine feel great? :driving:

One more question: Did you notice that the oil was darker or had more junk in it at the first change after switching to synthetic?
 
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so i just got my 4runner last week and i want to do an oil change...
what would be the best oil for a 2000 v6 2wd with 114k miles ?
5-30 or 10-40 ?
I'm going with mobil one but wanted to know which oil to pick up?

thanks!
 
I can't speak for the 3.4L specifically but in messing around with cars for years I have an observation: Switching to synthetic seems to be problematic ONLY if the cars is excess of 60k and missed some oil changes. Any car that I've been around that have made the switch has been fine provided it was fine and had regular dino oil changes leading up to the switch. The only time I've seen leaks or smoking is when a car has been neglected, you know the type, Wal-mart dino once every 10-12k or 2years:bash:


IMHO if it's been cared for you'll be fine.


Someone mentioned the ATF trick. It does work somewhat, so do the other products Peter mentioned. I like good 'ole Marvel Mystery Oil too. If I'm trying to "clean up" an engine I'll change the oil 2x in a row with MM @ 2500-3000mi. I use 1 grade of oil thicker to compensate for the thinness of of the MM (eg. if 5w-30 is 'normal' then I might chose 10w-40 for the 2 changes, especially in the summer. In the winter I'd do 10w-30.)


That's all just IMHO stuff. :iagree: with the others, you'll be fine...

:cheers:
 
firsttoyo said:
Have had my 02 for about 6,000 miles. 128,000 and I changed the oil at 5,000 with Valvoline High Mileage 5W-30. I know there are people that swear by Mobil 1, but I have always had luck with Valvoline products. No leaks yet, the engine is very clean.
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I am not sure why you would think the engine might leak with Valvoline High Mileage oil. I would think it would be heavier more stable non-synthetic oil, or am I missing something.
 
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