Oil after 5k

F

Falls

Super Moderator
The other day I was cleaning my truck a little under the hood because it was full of mud splashed water.

I decided to check the oil since I have about 4700 on this oil. I've been following Toyotas recommendation and doing oil , lube , filter every 5k. In checked it the level was fine , but what really surprised me was it was perfectly clear like it just came out of the bottle. No even a sign of dark brown or breakdown (in appearance). This must be a really clean running motor or something.

When I had my domestic vehicles I changed every 2500-3000 at most and the oil was always dark brown and dirty looking.

Why would that be so clean in appearance compared to my other vehicles at 2500 ?
 
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Unless your trying to bait me into a discussion to sell me something :p I have no damn idea why your oil would be so 'clean'.

Some quick questions that come to mind are: How many miles on vehicle? What kind of plugs, gas, oil, filter(s)etc., etc., etc. are you using? Do you do more hwy or city driving. (I would guess hwy?)

I would also guess that you have taken such good care of the vehicle that the internal parts are relatively clean and free of deposits, therefore there is very little dis-coloration of the oil.

Keep in mind (...and I know you know this already because I've read a bunch of your posts, but just for some of the folks that may read this...) visual inspections of oil really don't tell a whole lot.

Cheers!
 
My M1 syn is just a tad darker at even 9k miles.

Your modded Mustabg is a differetn beast and it seems forced induction motors seem to buid up more contaminants in the oil due to forced pressure in the cylinders hence the bigger need for synthetics.

My turboed Eclipse had synthetic it's whole life and was changed at 3500 mile intervals due to it's use as a track car and I only saw about 6k a year on the car. That oil was dirty at 3500 too.
 
Road Warrior said:
Unless your trying to bait me into a discussion to sell me something :p I have no damn idea why your oil would be so 'clean'.

Some quick questions that come to mind are: How many miles on vehicle? What kind of plugs, gas, oil, filter(s)etc., etc., etc. are you using? Do you do more hwy or city driving. (I would guess hwy?)

I would also guess that you have taken such good care of the vehicle that the internal parts are relatively clean and free of deposits, therefore there is very little dis-coloration of the oil.

Keep in mind (...and I know you know this already because I've read a bunch of your posts, but just for some of the folks that may read this...) visual inspections of oil really don't tell a whole lot.

Cheers!
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Thats why I wrote "in appearance".

Everything on my 4R is stock as far as motor stuff , Toyota has always done the oil , lube filters , ect..... still have stock plugs. 29,700 approx miles.

my driving is city , rural , off road when I see a nice field or farmer's road . I do drive hard.

Not trying to bait you at all , but I do want to sell some prime swamp land in Fla. if your interested.....lol.
 
Thus, changing oil (reg or syn) at 5000-7500 mile intervals is perfectly reasonable and safe. Toyota engines have traditionally been easy on oil.
 
In addition, I myself have never had to add any oil between my OCI's. It does get dirty, but never black or dark. It gets a little browner but always translucent as it nears time for a change.
 
Thai said:
Thus, changing oil (reg or syn) at 5000-7500 mile intervals is perfectly reasonable and safe. Toyota engines have traditionally been easy on oil.
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Sure, depending on your driving habits. When I drove 55 miles to work one-way, I'd go 7500 between changes (about 12 weeks) and the dino oil was like new. Now I drive 4 miles one-way, so it takes a year to go 7500. I'd never let it go that long, as it's contaminated with gas long before that point. Now I'm doing 3000 miles or about 6 months, and that's plenty long. Short trips at low speed will make the oil trap and retain a lot more contaminants.
 
What turns engine oil dark is the contaminants that the oil picks up as it circulates through the engine: these include zinc, copper, lead, silocone and others. The ZUZ-FE motor has one of the lowest engine wear rates--as indicated by engine oil contamination measured in ppm--of any engine ever and I suspect that this is part of the reason why your engine oil is relatively clean-looking. This as well as engine driving habits, OCI and overall condition of the engine will in part determine engine oil color but as noted already, it does not determine much.

On a completely unrelated topic, is it me or does anyone else here feel smart for having bought such a kick ass vehicle. I think my I.Q. goes up by 5 points (still not very high) every time I drive this thing.
 
i feel i have a better truck that will outlive other trucks i see when im driving. with the exception of 4R's.
 
Just changed my oil a few minutes ago, 3:30 am, lol. When I was draining it, I was concerned, it was dark brown, and I saw some metal shavings. This is with Vavoline, or whatever Toyota here uses, and only at 3,650 miles. Yikes. FYI, I just changed to Mobil 1 Extended Performance. I used a Toyota filter, but at 3,500 or 5,000 I'm going to switch the filter to the Mobil 1.
 
Indy4Runner said:
What turns engine oil dark is the contaminants that the oil picks up as it circulates through the engine: these include zinc, copper, lead, silocone and others. The ZUZ-FE motor has one of the lowest engine wear rates--as indicated by engine oil contamination measured in ppm--of any engine ever and I suspect that this is part of the reason why your engine oil is relatively clean-looking. This as well as engine driving habits, OCI and overall condition of the engine will in part determine engine oil color but as noted already, it does not determine much.

On a completely unrelated topic, is it me or does anyone else here feel smart for having bought such a kick ass vehicle. I think my I.Q. goes up by 5 points (still not very high) every time I drive this thing.
Click to expand...

:iagree: Don't forget 'by products' of incomplete combustion! It's also a biggie!

Diff subject: I assume you're in the Marines?? I just read Lone Survivor by Marcus Latrell (SEAL) about Operation Redwing in Afghanistan. It gave more insight into the situation than we get from the Mass Media stateside. Keep yer head down and thanks for your service to our Country! :cheers:
 
Road Warrior said:
:iagree: Don't forget 'by products' of incomplete combustion! It's also a biggie! :cheers:
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:iagree: Yep, you are right. Even in an engine as efficient as the iForce there is no such thing as 100% complete combustion.

I read Luttrell's book a few months ago and that guy is an absolute stud. I am amazed at how a guy can have that happen and still function enough to go back to combat. My hats off to the SEALS. I have worked with them several times and the only units that have impressed me as much as them are some of the Army's 82 Airborne infantry companies and of course, the Marines. I am one of the latter.
 
gizmopt2002 said:
Just changed my oil a few minutes ago, 3:30 am, lol. When I was draining it, I was concerned, it was dark brown, and I saw some metal shavings. This is with Vavoline, or whatever Toyota here uses, and only at 3,650 miles. Yikes. FYI, I just changed to Mobil 1 Extended Performance. I used a Toyota filter, but at 3,500 or 5,000 I'm going to switch the filter to the Mobil 1.
Click to expand...

You should send out an oil sample for analysis to see what's going on.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Koz
 
What turns engine oil dark is the contaminants that the oil picks up as it circulates through the engine: these include zinc, copper, lead, silocone and others.
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Actually has NOTHING to do with what's IN the engine or what material it's made of. Dirty oil is a product of the combustion. A New engine will have less blow-by than and older engine, thus the cleaner oil.

I've seen a few vehicles that have been converted to run on Natural gas or propane. These gases burn a LOT cleaner then gas. Because they burn so much cleaner you can EASILY extend the oil change interval to 15k or more. I've personally seen oil from one of these engines at 25k and it's perfectly clean...like it was put in just 10 minutes ago.
 
MikeInNH said:
Actually has NOTHING to do with what's IN the engine or what material it's made of. Dirty oil is a product of the combustion. A New engine will have less blow-by than and older engine, thus the cleaner oil.

I've seen a few vehicles that have been converted to run on Natural gas or propane. These gases burn a LOT cleaner then gas. Because they burn so much cleaner you can EASILY extend the oil change interval to 15k or more. I've personally seen oil from one of these engines at 25k and it's perfectly clean...like it was put in just 10 minutes ago.
Click to expand...

Arguing that blow-by
 
Koz said:
:iagree: The color of the oil means nothing. The only way to know what's going on, is to have a sample analyzed. Also, just because a manufacture says the oil is good for 15K miles, this does not mean it is. What they are saying is, it can be good for UP TO 15K miles. It depends on a list variable conditions and the design of the engine.

Example; The Audi RS4 uses a direct injection V8 that has a serious fuel dilution problem which destroys the oil, in less then 3K miles. No, off the shelf oil on the market is going to last, in that engine.

Koz
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:iagree: Hydrocarbons dilute hydrocarbons....and there is no way around that! We could construct....say a 'perflourinated' (non carbon base) motor oil that would not dilute, but it would still get contaminated and need to be 'cleaned'. It might cost like.....$75.00-$100.00 per quart! "That'll be 500.00 for the oil change, oh I forgot the filter make that $505.00." LOL Even if it lasted 50-75,000 miles how many people would buy it?

The automobile industry has built itself around carbon based lubricants, and with that comes all the shortcomings of the chemistry...and affordability to keep the oil changed. :D Personally, I'm looking forward to the day that I can purchase my first HYDROGEN powered 4R!
:flipoff: :biggrin2:
RW
 
Road Warrior said:
:iagree: Hydrocarbons dilute hydrocarbons....and there is no way around that! We could construct....say a 'perflourinated' (non carbon base) motor oil that would not dilute, but it would still get contaminated and need to be 'cleaned'. It might cost like.....$75.00-$100.00 per quart! "That'll be 500.00 for the oil change, oh I forgot the filter make that $505.00." LOL Even if it lasted 50-75,000 miles how many people would buy it?

The automobile industry has built itself around carbon based lubricants, and with that comes all the shortcomings of the chemistry...and affordability to keep the oil changed. :D Personally, I'm looking forward to the day that I can purchase my first HYDROGEN powered 4R!
:flipoff: :biggrin2:
RW
Click to expand...

You may find this interesting. I just had a UOA at 28K miles and everything is working perfect.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?threadid=10277&highlight=amsoil+bypass

Koz
 
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