Oil Change Advice

Curious. Why is it burning oil after you change to synth? What did you do to stop the oil burn? I'm asking because my 4R is about to turn 100K, and I'm seriously thinking about changing to synth.

Just to add my $0.02, I switched to full syn at 90K and am now at 130k. Since '99, I have yet to add a drop between oil changes, usually it's down only a quarter or so--no change in consumption. (OCI 5k on dino, 6.5K on syn, with UOA saying I could go longer.)

At today's prices, I can't see why anyone wouldn't switch to syn unless they are the OCD change-at-3K-because-I-always-did-it type. At that point, you could use old fryer oil.
 
Thanks for the info, guys. When y'all said "burning oil" i pictured smoke coming out of the tailpipe. I'm going to have my stealership start putting in Castrol synth the next time I get an oil change.
 
Dude just do it yourself, so easy. Took me about 15 mins of work. And $25 bucks AutoZone special.

4Runners.org - Changing Your Oil

Hmm after reading this and looking at my manual, i decided to accomplish my oil change myself... however when i went to Autozone, the tech there told me that Toyota recommends 10w30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil... my '00 4runner V6 has just hit 68k miles and i got her at 58k... toyota did the first few oil changes with their "regular"oil... is it "ok" to use 10w30 full synthetic or take it back for 5w30?? All comments/suggestions welcome!!! Thanks in advance...

-Scott
 
Dude just do it yourself, so easy. Took me about 15 mins of work. And $25 bucks AutoZone special.

4Runners.org - Changing Your Oil

Hmm after reading this and looking at my manual, i decided to accomplish my oil change myself... however when i went to Autozone, the tech there told me that Toyota recommends 10w30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil... my '00 4runner V6 has just hit 68k miles and i got her at 58k... toyota did the first few oil changes with their "regular"oil... is it "ok" to use 10w30 full synthetic or take it back for 5w30?? All comments/suggestions welcome!!! Thanks in advance...

-Scott
 
Hmm after reading this and looking at my manual, i decided to accomplish my oil change myself... however when i went to Autozone, the tech there told me that Toyota recommends 10w30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil... my '00 4runner V6 has just hit 68k miles and i got her at 58k... toyota did the first few oil changes with their "regular"oil... is it "ok" to use 10w30 full synthetic or take it back for 5w30?? All comments/suggestions welcome!!! Thanks in advance...

-Scott

My suggestion would be to watch your oil level for a bit. When you switch to Synthetic there is always that chance of it starting to burn a bit of oil. At that mileage you are probably just fine.

As far as using 10w-30 Mobil 1 that is fine. Next time you may want to switch to 5w-30.
 
Smoke, mirrors and snake oil. ;-)

Carbon deposits do not build up on rings to any appreciable level and if they do, your engine is shot regardless.

Synthetic oil has better lubricating abilities across the board. This is not debateable as the science proves it.

But I've had guys argue with me (because they read somewhere) that switching from dino to syn or back is bad for your motor.

Hogwash.

You will (typically) get some carbon build up on the valve and piston faces (not to be mistaken with the valve seats or piston bores) but carbon build up has nothing to do with your oil. It is a byproduct of combustion of fossil fuels.

Look at it this way - if carbon is all that is holding your motor together (and it's not) you have a problem.

If you REALLY want to know what is going on have your oil analyzed. I have no connection to them whatsoever, but here is who I use: Oil Analyzers, Inc. - Oil Analysis, Oil Testing Services

BTW - my 2002 4Runner 3.4 uses less than .25 quarts in 4K miles with 98K miles on the clock.
 
Smoke, mirrors and snake oil. ;-)

Carbon deposits do not build up on rings to any appreciable level and if they do, your engine is shot regardless.

Synthetic oil has better lubricating abilities across the board. This is not debateable as the science proves it.

But I've had guys argue with me (because they read somewhere) that switching from dino to syn or back is bad for your motor.

Hogwash.

You will (typically) get some carbon build up on the valve and piston faces (not to be mistaken with the valve seats or piston bores) but carbon build up has nothing to do with your oil. It is a byproduct of combustion of fossil fuels.

Look at it this way - if carbon is all that is holding your motor together (and it's not) you have a problem.

If you REALLY want to know what is going on have your oil analyzed. I have no connection to them whatsoever, but here is who I use: Oil Analyzers, Inc. - Oil Analysis, Oil Testing Services

BTW - my 2002 4Runner 3.4 uses less than .25 quarts in 4K miles with 98K miles on the clock.

It may not be carbon build up, I am by no means an expert. However I can't ignore the fact that my car began burning a quart of oil every 2k miles after switching. I have several friends that the same thing happened to. On the other hand, mine doesn't burn hardly any either and I am using Synthetic 0w-30w.

I don't know the scientific reasons for it happening, all I can say for sure is that is sometimes does.
 
Only run the oil weight that is spec'd by the manufacturer. It needs to be thinner in newer vehicles to properly lubricate the tighter tolerance engines. Thicker oils will not lubricate better, they can actually starve parts from oil.
 
My suggestion would be to watch your oil level for a bit. When you switch to Synthetic there is always that chance of it starting to burn a bit of oil. At that mileage you are probably just fine.

As far as using 10w-30 Mobil 1 that is fine. Next time you may want to switch to 5w-30.

Thanks for the suggestion and comments all... i did put the 10w30 synthetic and the truck is running great... i will switch to manufacturer recommended 5w30 next time...

Only problem is changing the oil... i followed the DIY and the space between the wheel well to retrieve the oil filter is wayy to small to fit the filter through... there were wires in the way and couldnt be moved far enough to fit the filter through... my question is how did u all accomplish it?? i had to reach underneath to grab the oil filter and it spilled all over the place..:happens: Is there an easier way of grabbing the filter out of the way??? Thanks in advance...

-Scott
 
Only problem is changing the oil... i followed the DIY and the space between the wheel well to retrieve the oil filter is wayy to small to fit the filter through... there were wires in the way and couldnt be moved far enough to fit the filter through... my question is how did u all accomplish it?? i had to reach underneath to grab the oil filter and it spilled all over the place..:happens: Is there an easier way of grabbing the filter out of the way??? Thanks in advance...

-Scott


Here is my write up about changing the oil in my 2001 4Runner.

It is not easy. I bought a oil filter wrench that is a cap and it fits directly over the filter. The cap is attached to a 3/8" socket wrench. When I reach up to put it on the filter I get the other hand through the side and go through the flap. I squeeze my left hand through the side of the flap. Then with my left hand I unscrew the filter part way and then take it off the rest of the way with my right hand. A true pain in the ass.

I put the rig up on ramps and I do not remove the skid plates. Some oil falls on the skid plates and drains down the back side where I catch the oil in my oil catch pan. I then use some paper towels to clean the skid plate.

I have done it for over 70,000 miles and it really doesn't get easier with practice.

I did it last weekend, I am getting a little better, but it is still tough.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/12633-my-first-oil-change-help.html
 
Smoke, mirrors and snake oil. ;-)

Carbon deposits do not build up on rings to any appreciable level and if they do, your engine is shot regardless.

Synthetic oil has better lubricating abilities across the board. This is not debateable as the science proves it.

But I've had guys argue with me (because they read somewhere) that switching from dino to syn or back is bad for your motor.

Hogwash.

You will (typically) get some carbon build up on the valve and piston faces (not to be mistaken with the valve seats or piston bores) but carbon build up has nothing to do with your oil. It is a byproduct of combustion of fossil fuels.

Look at it this way - if carbon is all that is holding your motor together (and it's not) you have a problem.

If you REALLY want to know what is going on have your oil analyzed. I have no connection to them whatsoever, but here is who I use: Oil Analyzers, Inc. - Oil Analysis, Oil Testing Services

BTW - my 2002 4Runner 3.4 uses less than .25 quarts in 4K miles with 98K miles on the clock.

You know, the more I read the more I think I may stay with dino. I mean, I know if I went to synth it definately wouldn't hurt it. But, am I really going to make that much of a difference with synth versus dino, especially if my truck seems to be running great?

Found this on http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm under "Advantages of Synthetic"

Unfortunately for the synthetic oil industry there is virtually no advantage to synthetic oil in a non-high performance engine that is operated in moderate climates.

In short, synthetic may give you the peace of mind of knowing that you are using an oil that is far better than necessary for your vehicle, but it won't reduce wear to extend the life of the engine.

I live in Houston. If anything it gets sweltering during the summer months, especially in August. The winters here are a joke. Maybe down to the 40s during a few nights out of the winter months. Again, I know it wouldn't hurt. But, would it really be that much of an factor in helping to extend the life?
 
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Hey help

I run shell 5w-30 or 10-30 depending on my mood from Costco. They were $20 for a case of 12 quarts so i bought 4 cases. :D

a50b2ee8.jpg~original

I want to buy this. https://www.amazon.com/Shell-ROTELL...01LG3Q5RG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

But says diesel. I cannot find a 15w-40 Full Synthetic blend for my toyota for any of Castrol,Valvoline,Shell or Mobil please help
 
Oh my god, people. To change oil...remove your skids plates! It takes like 2 minutes and you won't spill oil everywhere.
So many people on this forum *****ing about messy oil changes and I just don't get it.
If taking a couple extra minutes to do a job right is too much, you guys shouldn't be changing your own oil.

I just changed my oil last weekend and the only rogue drop of oil was on the drain plug before I wiped it off. Why is this such a big deal?

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
 
But says diesel. I cannot find a 15w-40 Full Synthetic blend for my toyota for any of Castrol,Valvoline,Shell or Mobil please help[/QUOTE]

short answer.
contrary to popular belief their really is no scientific proof that fuel injector cleaners actually work. Don't use diesel blend use 5w30 oil specified by toyota

Is your truck running good? why do you want to use injector cleaner? Are you having performance issues? If so you need to address the underlying issue to fix the problem.
 
I want to buy this. https://www.amazon.com/Shell-ROTELL...01LG3Q5RG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

But says diesel. I cannot find a 15w-40 Full Synthetic blend for my toyota for any of Castrol,Valvoline,Shell or Mobil please help
In the USA, all 15W-40 oils are designated 'diesel'. All are Group 2(conventional) and some are called 'synthetic blend'.
The general recommendation is to use a 5W-__ oil for best oil performance at startup. It says 5W-30 on the oil filler cap.
Toyota USA says 5W-30 or 10W-30 are both OK**. In other countries, Toyota says 5W-40 and 10W-40 are also OK**.
** = For the 5VZ-E (V-6, 3.4L) engine.
 
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