Oil Change Debacle

M

Muzzle of Bees

New member
I started to perform an oil change on the 4Runner last evening and ran into quite the snag. It is the third oil change. I did the first oil change and the dealer did the second one. After I drained the oil and went to remove the filter cover I discovered that I was not able to remove it. It was on really tight. No way was it spec to 18. I tried all my tricks with no resolution. The last thing I tried was to tap on the fins at the top of the cover to try and get it to budge and poked a hole into the cover. Well, that was not good. It came off fine the first time too.
I called the dealership this am and explained my dilemma. They sent over a tow truck no charge and is performing the oil change and giving me a good discount on the replacement cover.
That is kinda why I like doing the work myself. No second guessing what was done previously.
 
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That sucks, but glad the dealership is helping you out.

Just make sure the Hulk isn't doing your oil change again this time.
 
The last time I had my tires changed I specifically asked to how many ft/lbs they torque the lugs to and they told me: 95 lbs.

I got my car home to check the torque and BROKE my 3/8 extension and socket trying to LOOSEN the lugs.

They were torqued to over 200 lbs.
 
eatpasta said:
Yeah. Had to borrow a torque wrench from a buddy of mine that was big enough as mine only measures to 100.

His measures to 200 and as I was taking the lugs off, they were more than 200 ft. lbs
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Torque is only correctly measured while you are tightening the fastener. Once it stops moving, static friction will make the removal torque higher than what it was torqued to on installation. For example, all those factory torqued bolts that are nearly impossible to remover after time and corrosion and rust take effect. But I will say I've never had a problem taking off correctly torqued lug nuts on aluminum wheels on mine, so it shouldn't take wrench-breaking force.

You can test it yourself. Torque the lug nuts correctly, then drive around a little and/or wait about a day (or not). Then check the torque to loosen them and it should be at least a little higher. It shouldn't be 200ft-lb though.

I can't test it because my largest torque wrench only works in the forward direction.
 
m85476585 said:
Torque is only correctly measured while you are tightening the fastener. Once it stops moving, static friction will make the removal torque higher than what it was torqued to on installation. For example, all those factory torqued bolts that are nearly impossible to remover after time and corrosion and rust take effect. But I will say I've never had a problem taking off correctly torqued lug nuts on aluminum wheels on mine, so it shouldn't take wrench-breaking force.

You can test it yourself. Torque the lug nuts correctly, then drive around a little and/or wait about a day (or not). Then check the torque to loosen them and it should be at least a little higher. It shouldn't be 200ft-lb though.

I can't test it because my largest torque wrench only works in the forward direction.
Click to expand...

Good info - didn't know that

I wonder what they torqued the bolts to then... it must have been pretty dammed high
 
They probably actually tightened it to about 30~50ft.lbs, but because of heat cycling it gets wedged in there good. I've had ones that have barely been snugged down need a breaker bar to get off.
 
I saw a metal one made buy Toyota for sale a long time ago but it was expensive. I think it was a TRD product. I considered replacing the plastic one then but it was expensive and it is protected when wheeling and did not seem like an urgent item to purchase. I guess the plastic expands into the metal from the heat and cooling, but it seems like a fairly soft plastic. I am surprised it responds this way.
Would it be better to have metal on metal?
 
BlackWorksInc said:
They probably actually tightened it to about 30~50ft.lbs, but because of heat cycling it gets wedged in there good. I've had ones that have barely been snugged down need a breaker bar to get off.
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30~50 lbs? Then that would be too low. At least on the 4th Gen I think it's 80lbs.

Edit: Wait, are you talking lug nuts or the oil filter cover?
 
I buy Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic oil made from clean Natural Gas base stock & premium WIX XP filter (extended life)...off Amazon.

My trusted garage owner, charges me $15 for Oil Change labor only or an extra $5 if he brings out his grease gun.
- I supply the oil & filter
- fluid change every 10,000 Km

I WILL NOT go to Dealse$hips or Quick Lub places / my mechanic lets me in the bay area, everything is done correct, on his hoist.
- wife's RAV4-v6 costs me $80 Cdn (Total Cost +6L) to do a premium oil change...my supplies are picked up across the border, in MI & provided
Haven't owned my Gen3 T4R long enough to need its first oil change / but have my own grease gun filled with Amsoil Synthetic Lub, for it.
 

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BlackWorksInc said:
They probably actually tightened it to about 30~50ft.lbs, but because of heat cycling it gets wedged in there good. I've had ones that have barely been snugged down need a breaker bar to get off.
Click to expand...

I have no experience with oil filter covers, but I've never been able to remove a regular oil filter without a tool even if I personally hand tightened it when I installed it. Of course, I hand tighten them as hard as possible.
 
Oil filter section of 5th Gen Factory Service Manual provided by member nashman69 shows 18ft lbs. torque for the oil filter housing.

I replace and lube well the big gasket at each oil change. That said, the filter housing always requires some grunt-groan to get off.
 

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Muzzle of Bees said:
I saw a metal one made buy Toyota for sale a long time ago but it was expensive. I think it was a TRD product. I considered replacing the plastic one then but it was expensive and it is protected when wheeling and did not seem like an urgent item to purchase. I guess the plastic expands into the metal from the heat and cooling, but it seems like a fairly soft plastic. I am surprised it responds this way.
Would it be better to have metal on metal?
Click to expand...

the plastic filter cap works perfectly . why did you have this problem ?

reason is the dealership rookie did the damage ....not any other guesses .. I find this very funny stupid !

you had no problem doing the first oil change , now the damage . not all that hard to figure out with all these members *****ing about this , after they had some oil change servicing.

on the tire rotations I never in 50 years had these issues [lugs] reason is I do this work , so I never broke or had any lugs not come off. I have old vehicles 10 plus year old....
but I certainly did on family members that had dealerships damage these parts .. ...on new vehicles less than 5 years old.......

they used a torque gun to put those lugs on that's why its 200 plus on the torque. constant use of these guns does damage the threads slow is good, high speed creates the issue............


rather than waste your time posting here .this just do it yourself in the long run you will save $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. less stress esp when you get that flat tire that will not come off .
 
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