Oil Change, How Long???

How often do you change your oil?

  • I change the oil every 3,000 miles or eariler.

    Votes: 308 24.2%
  • I change the oil every 5,000 miles, good balance.

    Votes: 691 54.3%
  • I change the oil every 7,500 miles as recommended by the manual.

    Votes: 165 13.0%
  • I change the oil every 10,000 to 15,000, or when ever.

    Votes: 92 7.2%
  • I never change the oil, it's just a communist plot.

    Votes: 17 1.3%

  • Total voters
    1,273
Thai, after reading your good advice, I noticed that someone on the poll says they never change the oil. I left that as a option becuase I actually met someone that belived that. He worked at Boog Powells Marina in Key West and he worked on outboards for a living. He said he once had to add oil when his oil filter rusted and sprang a leak.

Is the person who never changes oil from Key West? :awais:
 
The article was interesting but one statement caught my attention...

"Only oils that are created using Poly-Alpha-Olephin based technology are considered to be synthetic."

Does that mean my Red Line oil is not synthetic because it's polyol ester based?

And I've heard his hit on Amsoil before, that Amsoil has a lot of additive content to pass the ASTM 4-ball wear. Then they make a big deal in their advertising about how well they protect their balls. In fact, not many companys have balls as nice as Amsoil's balls.

One idea I had not come across was the idea of making parts "brittle"? In my experience, having a complete oil system failure without turning off the engine would make the engine components brittle.

One idea he left out about adjusting the oil viscosity and oci would be to get help from a qualified lab, every now and then. It's possible that between the lab's advice with the numbers they produce, through testing your sample, along with your driving habits, local weather and vehicle type and vehicle condition that a plan could be developed and/or refined.

Another thing. I know the hit on Syntec about being called synthetic but I did not know it was a Class II base stock. I thought is was a Class III, like most other conventional oils.

In the end, most people that lurk this forum, probably do a better job than those that drive into the dealer and say, I'd like your lube special....
 
Great Article

That was perhaps the single best article I think I've read on the subject - from my novice standpoint, very informative!

Very interesting about oil improvements being the bigger factor in engine longevity, and not so much the engine manufacturing methods!

I had heard the thing about Syntec before, so this just reinforced it - why pay the same price as Mobile 1 (which has gone down in price at WalMart by the way). The Amsoil info was interesting, but I really don't care as I don't ever see me using that oil system.

So the bottom line for me was that I'm going to start using true PAO synthetics in most applications - definately in the differentials & transfer case immediately. I will try straight Mobile 1 as the engine oil on the next oil change, and before I start towing a heavier trailer consistantly, to see if there is mileage benefits. If not, I think I will go with the WalMart Super-Tech synthetic blend (which he indicates is a great value) for engine oil. I plan to keep Toyota's oil change schedule, which seems like a good compromise of everything I'm hearing.

The Fram oil filters most of us know about - they've gotten cheap (except I've read that the Tuff-Guards are better than other Fram's). Again, surprised to see the WalMart brand of filter actually being pretty good!

The one place that I can't seem to find as a synthetic replacement is the T-IV transmission fluid. Guess I'll have to wait until someone develops one or is approved as a replacement there - any thoughts?
 
If the oil companies could prove that synthetic would do all these great things that the dino oil can't, they would be able to sell the oil as extending engine life and extending OCI's. I think it is kind of funny that the only oil warranties I see in the market place comes from Castrol GTX which has a warranty that covers your engine agains't any and all lube related failures for 400,000 miles if you use Castrol GTX and do a 4000 mile OCI using there oil. Now if Castrol didn't believe in there dino oil I doubt they would provide this warranty. I can live with 400,000 mile coverage. If Mobil 1 was that much better why don't they provide the same kind of warranty proposal? I'm sure Mobil 1 and other synthetics are great oils but when it comes to lubrication protection for our 4runners any quality dino oil using a Toyota filter and following Toyotas recommended service interval will take care of your engine.
 
Larry said:
Pitbull, have you read the fine print on that warranty?

Yes ;): It's as good as any of the auto manufactures warranties, just have to keep your records. I don't plan on using it since I will be trading around 80K miles and I could use any oil and the 4.7 V8 would last 100K miles.
 
400,000 thats has to be for the original owner and what about certain engines that will never make that kind of mileage, I know plenty that are not designed to get to 200k, 300k would be a pity;):

I guess they figure the few who actually do take advantage of it will keep their rigs for 400k but they can actually make that mileage;):
 
OK I got the brochure out and here is what it states. It's called the Castrol Maximum Protection limited warranty. It covers your engine from oil related mechanicla failure or abnormal wear. If you use the Castrol oil your vehicle is covered for 10 years or 300K miles with the GTX oil and 400K miles with the Syntec Blend and 500K miles with the Syntec, with the Syntec the time is extended to 15 years. You can start with any vehicle that has been driven less then 36K miles, and is 4 years old or newer and have maintained your vehicle in accordance with the manufactures recommendations for oil change service. You have an installer/dealer sign your warranty application that you meet the above spec's and they sign you up for the program and send you a warranty certificate and you then keep records that you change the oil/filter every 4K miles using the Castrol oil. Call 1-800-570-7011 for a brochure and any other details. Seems pretty straight forward and it tells me that if you needed synthetic to make our engines last a long time Castrol would not be taking this risk? I just think it's kind of funny that everyone gets all weird about oil when as long as the oil you are using meets the auto manufactures requirement you don't really need to be concerned, but owners go out and put air filters that let tons of crap into their engine and don't think anything about it, and these air filters cause way more damage to their engines then the oil they are using or not using???
 
Quaker State had a deal like that but I don't hear anything about it now. I wonder how it worked out for them. That's why I asked about being allowed to change your own oil. Quaker State did not allow it, either. Quaker state marketed it to repair shops and not so much to the end user. I'd like to hear how claims are handled with there is a problem.

Pitbul is right about most oils doing the job if the owner just changes it on some reasonable schedule. One difference is not reflected in how long the engine lasts but how much it takes to overhaul it when it is time for a fix. We've seen 250k+ engines that made the distance but were really used up and not worth rebuilding. I have a 78 Toyota go 320k something before being torn down for an overhaul. It got a steady diet of synthetic that had always spent 5k miles in my wife's 850 Turbo Volvo and then on to the Toyota. Sort of my version of the extended drain interval by proxy. The overhaul consisted of piston rings, cylinder honing, gaskets, a valve job with a camshaft and lifters and the water pump. I replaced the rings because I could not tell how much they were worn and did not want a ring sealing problem on startup. Also the camshaft was replaced because I got a screaming deal on the parts from a friend. So, even though an engine lasts 250k+ miles there can still be a difference in the cost of returning the engine to service. That little difference is always overlooked when people talk about engine life. I think most people consider that after the claimed long mileage that the car is thrown away. I'm too cheap, not to use synthetic oil. I keep cars long enough to get my investment back. To do an overhaul in my driveway and not touch the bottom end and end up with a great running engine for not much money is the payback. It now has 380k something and runs like new and is California smog legal.
 
Larry, you hit the nail on the head. I have to get 20 yrs out of any car I buy. If I didn't and had to make car payments all the time, there's no way I could ever retire. :-) So maintenance is key for me. In the long run, it's way cheaper to drive a car 200K+ miles w/ good maintenance than selling at 60-100K mi and buying another car.
 
Does anyone know exactly what the owners manual recommends for '04 4Runner SE V8? I am confused, is it 7500 or 5000???
 
zduchene said:
Does anyone know exactly what the owners manual recommends for '04 4Runner SE V8? I am confused, is it 7500 or 5000???

Those mileage intervals are based on different driving styles and uses. Basically if the truck never sees dust, dirt, abuse, towing and is driven very conservatively then 7500 is right. Otherwise, as the poll suggests, 5000m is a safe bet.

I personally use Amsoil and change it every 7500miles but I change the filter at 3500 miles and top it off a little less than a quart.
 
toybox said:
Those mileage intervals are based on different driving styles and uses. Basically if the truck never sees dust, dirt, abuse, towing and is driven very conservatively then 7500 is right. Otherwise, as the poll suggests, 5000m is a safe bet.

I personally use Amsoil and change it every 7500miles but I change the filter at 3500 miles and top it off a little less than a quart.

Is the oil filter difficult to change in these cars?? what kind of special tools do you need?? how much do the filters cost??
 
zduchene said:
Is the oil filter difficult to change in these cars?? what kind of special tools do you need?? how much do the filters cost??

Hard, no, but you do have to take off the skid plate to get to it. Just a couple of extra bolts.

A smaller size oil filter wrench will probably be needed to remove it.

I get mine pretty cheap at partznet ($3.60 I think, but it has been some time because I buy a few when I'm there) and I'm close enough to pick them up at their dealership.
 
zduchene said:
Does anyone know exactly what the owners manual recommends for '04 4Runner SE V8? I am confused, is it 7500 or 5000???

They changed it for 2004, it is 5000 miles for OCI. I think in 2003 they had the 7500 mile OCI but they got tire of leaving it too the owner to figure out if they were using their vehicle for normal or severe service. So I am sure that Toyota changed it to 5000 miles to cover their butt. I change mine every 3750 miles even though I use mine for normal service.
 
You guys letting the dealers change your oil...how do you sleep at night?? LOL...here in Richmond I have yet to find even one solid "automobile" dealership....period. Sure they treat me great to my face and "take care" of me. Oh but what goes on behind the scenes is what frightens me most.

I caught the "detailer" at my local BMW dealership trying to drive my M3 like he was Mario Andretti. Like I really want anybody detailing my baby. I ran outside like a fool when the service writer told me they were cleaning it. It was my fault, I should have told them not to touch it.

I have a lot of horror stories from my past Toyotas...I have had a lot.

This '06 Runner...I didn't even let them take off any stickers...they did get the white plastic off the body but that's it. Unfortunately I couldn't get the oil filter off to save my life because it was so tight so I took them the filter and Amsoil and let them do the oil change...cringe. Sure enough they stripped my skid plate bolts and didn't reinstall the little plastic cover. I know...not a huge deal...but for once can't they do SOMETHING right? So if they do this on just one visit...imagine what would happen to my Runner if I took it to them regularly. I will say this...these skid plate bolts do suck. The same bolts on the Tundra...still suck. OK enough of me ranting. Can you tell I do not trust dealerships?

BTW I change my oil at 15K intervals. I use Amsoil Series 2000 0W30 which is actually good for 35,000 intervals with regular filter changes ofcourse. I also switch it over to synthetic immediately. Break in with dinosaur poo is not needed.
 

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