Oil change (keep reading please...)

Victor_inox said:
it`s all good, run it for 3000 miles and everything gonna be alright, I promise, just check level once in a while.
20-30 viscosity is so damn close I wouldn`t worry about it.
Click to expand...

Even if it weren't he'd still be fine, I had a leaking rear main seal and ran 20w50 in it for several months to slow the leak down until I got around to fixing it. Guess what that engine has over 200,000 miles on it and still running strong...lol some of these guys crack me up
 
It isn't an issue of screaming the sky is falling, it is an issue of responsibility.

It is quite easy to be free and cocky with information when it isn't your skin or your engine. Those of us who err on the side of conservative advice do so, because we have seen the impact cocky and improper advice has. I feel I am probably in the older crowd and have seen more than my fair share of **** go wrong, all on the advice of a trusted opinion.

The internet makes all kings of wit and wise, and we so often hide behind it.
That is all.


And we should stop with certainties. You don't actually "know" what the impact will be. You think you know, and that is an totally different thing.
 
No you are screaming the sky is falling, I would with out a doubt run 5w20 in my engine for years and never worry about it. Audi says to only run Castrol GTX in my engine but it's survived 56,000 miles on Shell Rotella T6 (you know oil formulated for turbocharged diesel engines) and actually runs better an consumes less oil than the recommended Castrol. But then again they say I need to run Castrol so I am sure my engine will explode here shortly
 
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Toyota reccomends 5W-30, but there was a TSB stating that 5W-20 and 0W-20 oils are acceptable. Also if you read the owner's manual you will see there is a chart that describes what oils to run at what average temperatures an so on.

Toyota is actually rather lax on specifications for engine oil in comparision to say VW/Audi. They call for a simple adherance to viscosity and API rating.
 
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DC runner said:
It isn't an issue of screaming the sky is falling, it is an issue of responsibility.

It is quite easy to be free and cocky with information when it isn't your skin or your engine. Those of us who err on the side of conservative advice do so, because we have seen the impact cocky and improper advice has. I feel I am probably in the older crowd and have seen more than my fair share of **** go wrong, all on the advice of a trusted opinion.

The internet makes all kings of wit and wise, and we so often hide behind it.
That is all.


And we should stop with certainties. You don't actually "know" what the impact will be. You think you know, and that is an totally different thing.
Click to expand...
how about I`ll buy him a new god damn engine if anything bad happened in the next 3000 miles? happy now? seriously.... those of us with engineering background will tell you not to worry. it`s a good oil with stable viscosity and it`s only 20% of it. I do actually know. I run 15-50 in my suzuki motorcyclee for 115000 miles and engine showed no signs of wear when rebuild for turbo. and that engine was suppose to use 10-40. got my drift? 15-50 instead of 10-40. red lined every ride at 11000 rpm. not a problem and no measurable wear on pistons and cam lobes, yepp I measured that. suzuki engine is a beast it has130 horse power per litre displacement, was happy on 15-50. toyota enginewill do just fine on 80/20% mix of 5w20-5w30, i Guarantee no wear will occur because of the mix.
you can do what ever you fill comfortable with your engine, just dont say that everyone giving advise online is irresponsible moron because their point of view not the same as yours.
 
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BlackWorksInc said:
Toyota reccomends 5W-30, but there was a TSB stating that 5W-20 and 0W-20 oils are acceptable. Also if you read the owner's manual you will see there is a chart that describes what oils to run at what average temperatures an so on.

Toyota is actually rather lax on specifications for engine oil in comparision to say VW/Audi. They call for a simple adherance to viscosity and API rating.
Click to expand...

It's be easier to read the owners
Manual if CarMax had one others when I bought it :rant:
 
rebelbowtie said:
No you are screaming the sky is falling, I would with out a doubt run 5w20 in my engine for years and never worry about it. Audi says to only run Castrol GTX in my engine but it's survived 56,000 miles on Shell Rotella T6 (you know oil formulated for turbocharged diesel engines) and actually runs better an consumes less oil than the recommended Castrol. But then again they say I need to run Castrol so I am sure my engine will explode here shortly
Click to expand...

No it will just blow up because Audi engineered it. I can say that because i sold my Audi for the 4runner. That car had to be the biggest pile of sh*t i have ever driven. 07 A4
 
Go ahead and use 5W20, especially if it's for a short time. But if you start hearing engine noise (louder than usual) or the ambient temp in your area gets into 100F+ during that time, then I would seriously consider changing it back to 5W30 or 10W30.
 
Run the oil, you will be fine. If the Toyota engine is too fragile to run an alternative viscosity for only 3000 miles, then we should all sell our 4runners. This thread has been entertaining.

PS- my lawnmower says only 30wt, but I throw anything and everything into it (10w, 5w-20, etc.) just whatever's laying around, and it keeps going, and going, and going, and going and hasn't blown up on me yet.
 
Frank Drebin said:
Run the oil, you will be fine. If the Toyota engine is too fragile to run an alternative viscosity for only 3000 miles, then we should all sell our 4runners. This thread has been entertaining.

PS- my lawnmower says only 30wt, but I throw anything and everything into it (10w, 5w-20, etc.) just whatever's laying around, and it keeps going, and going, and going, and going and hasn't blown up on me yet.
Click to expand...

BTW-I put 10w-30 Pennz plat full synthetic in all my mowers.
 
I get concerned with all these automobile manufacturers specifying oils with very low viscosity values all in the name of squeaking out another 1/2 MPG.

I've used 10W-40 Castrol oil for 30 years now on about 5 different GM cars and have sold each with 200,000+ on the odometer with years of life left in them without ever having to break into the engine. There is something comforting knowing my crankshaft bearing journal is properly lubricated riding on a film of oil.

However, I've modified this post because DCrunner has a good point when it comes to today's Japanese vehicles. Their tolerances are much tighter than the older American cars I've driven all my life. Plus the use of synthetics I'm sure is directly correlated to being able to use lower and lower viscosity oils.
 
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I would almost suggest the flip: More engines are making it to over 200k in new cars, with the lower weight oil. Thicker oil doesn't mean better protection if it isn't what it was designed around.
 
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