Oil change -- went with Mobil 1 0W30

[Qyota]

Anyone else running this stuff? I seem to be getting slightly better fuel efficiency, and cold start-ups sound better. It was $20 for 5 quarts at Wally's.

 

[Elton H]

ive been useing 10w30

 

[jujew]

I'm running 5w30

 

[p nut]

Why are you running 0w30? I guess if you're in the extreme cold areas, it might not be too bad, but I'd watch it during the hot season. Mobil1 already is thin compared to other oils in the same weight.

I'm happy with 5w-30 from 100+ degrees to -20.

 

[96743runner]

I'm using 5w30 too.

 

[Supra725]

I'm running 5w30 too..

If anyone here is an Costco member, they send out an catalog with an $10 dollars off coupon for Mobil 1 5w30 or 10w30...

It comes out to $3.91 an quart before taxes...

I'm going back tomorrow and buying some more.

 

[Qyota]

Says it exceeds specs for 5W30 and 10W30. It's not unusual to have -20 or less in January and February in Wisconsin. I don't expect to run it in the summer (5W30 then).

Does the appearance of a "thin" oil have direct correlation to it's viscosity and thermal efficiency? I don't know. Conventional wisdom says a heavier oil protects better, but it's also much harder to pump when it's that cold.

I wouldn't have used it had the jug not said it wasn't formulated as a replacement for 5W30...

 

[GMZ]

Why are you running 0w30? I guess if you're in the extreme cold areas, it might not be too bad, but I'd watch it during the hot season. Mobil1 already is thin compared to other oils in the same weight.

I'm happy with 5w-30 from 100+ degrees to -20.

If its a XW-30 what does it matter? Hot or cold it doesnt really matter as long as the hot weight (30) is the same. Ill agree that M1 is on the thin side of the 30 wt vis spectrum, but its still in spec. This is debatable but 0W base stocks are usually better and should stay in grade. -20 or +120 a 0W would conceivably pump better while the oil is cold and circulate better until reaching op temp which would happen quicker as well.

Says it exceeds specs for 5W30 and 10W30. It's not unusual to have -20 or less in January and February in Wisconsin. I don't expect to run it in the summer (5W30 then).

Does the appearance of a "thin" oil have direct correlation to it's viscosity and thermal efficiency? I don't know. Conventional wisdom says a heavier oil protects better, but it's also much harder to pump when it's that cold.

I wouldn't have used it had the jug not said it wasn't formulated as a replacement for 5W30...

Its fine, run it with confidence. There is a gentleman running M1 AFE in his V8 4R (in Vegas city driving) on BITOG, Im looking forward to the UOA. Heavier oils protecting better? I dont think so at all.

 

[p nut]

If its a XW-30 what does it matter? Hot or cold it doesnt really matter as long as the hot weight (30) is the same. Ill agree that M1 is on the thin side of the 30 wt vis spectrum, but its still in spec. This is debatable but 0W base stocks are usually better and should stay in grade. -20 or +120 a 0W would conceivably pump better while the oil is cold and circulate better until reaching op temp which would happen quicker as well.



Its fine, run it with confidence. There is a gentleman running M1 AFE in his V8 4R (in Vegas city driving) on BITOG, Im looking forward to the UOA. Heavier oils protecting better? I dont think so at all.

I already said in colder temps, it would be fine. I was merely talking about strictly running it year round.

As far as running a thinner oil, it's not going to blow up your engine, but I experienced more oil burn off (esp with M1), and more wear according to my UOA's. Sure, running 0w-30 may not show immediate signs of wear or anything detriment to your engine, but when my UOA says higher wear with M1 and with RP/Amsoil/Valv says normal, there is definitely something going on. My personal opinion is that the Toyota engineers are a smart bunch and if I'm ever in doubt of what to run in the truck, I'll follow their recommendations.

Oh, as far as "Pumping better?" Don't know about Virginia beach, but it gets in the neg 20's here and the places I go in Wyoming gets as low as -50. Never had "pumping" problems. Always has started on the first try. Relatives who live there permenantly use just regular dino 5w-30 and no problems.

 

[Berry]

Anyone else running this stuff? I seem to be getting slightly better fuel efficiency, and cold start-ups sound better. It was $20 for 5 quarts at Wally's.

I have a 1998 4Runner Limited. The manual indicates 5W-30. The only thing I changed is that I went to synthetic 5W-30. When all else fails check out your owners manual.

 

[GMZ]

I already said in colder temps, it would be fine. I was merely talking about strictly running it year round.

As far as running a thinner oil, it's not going to blow up your engine, but I experienced more oil burn off (esp with M1), and more wear according to my UOA's. Sure, running 0w-30 may not show immediate signs of wear or anything detriment to your engine, but when my UOA says higher wear with M1 and with RP/Amsoil/Valv says normal, there is definitely something going on. My personal opinion is that the Toyota engineers are a smart bunch and if I'm ever in doubt of what to run in the truck, I'll follow their recommendations.

Oh, as far as "Pumping better?" Don't know about Virginia beach, but it gets in the neg 20's here and the places I go in Wyoming gets as low as -50. Never had "pumping" problems. Always has started on the first try. Relatives who live there permenantly use just regular dino 5w-30 and no problems.

I dont think it would make any difference in running it year round, as once it gets up to operating temp it will be a 30 wt just as if it were 5W or 10W.

You had oil burn off with M1 0W-30? There seems to be 2 camps re: M1. M1=higher Fe=bad, and higher Fe=noise. Since most times it isnt even close to the condemnation point anyway, and the fact that M1 isnt grenading any engines Im not worried about it. May I ask what the difference in PPM was? Was it 7 ppm vs 14 ppm of Fe? How many UOA did you do? Did you do a few to try and trend your wear numbers? M1 is a fairly powerful cleaning oil, so increased wear seen on a UOA can be attributed to this or some form of chemical chelation. Im not convinced that UOA are a good tool for determining wear, mainly I use them to see how far I can push an oil. They only analyze a certain particle size anyway. They can be useful for trending wear numbers over a long period of time with several like powerplants.

As for the pumping comment, I should have said flow better. Just like water will flow out of a water gun better than cream will, no matter the temp (ridiculous analogy I know, but it gets my point across).

 

[96Blacklimited]

Yes. I have been using Mobil 1 10w 30 on my car as well,so when i got my runner i used mobil 1 in it as well (10w 30). i get it on sale @ advance auto 5 quart and Mobil 1 filter for $26