Oil Change

[pokemon9264]

Hello! I have a question. Do you guys change your own oil or do you take it somewhere? If you change your own oil, is it really hard? In my opinion, you just open the cap, unscrew drain plug, then wait then take off oil filter. Next you put new oil filter then rescrew back drain plug then add new oil. Is it that easy? What could go wrong? Is it same process for chevy trucks?

 

[4yotaguy]

I'm new here but.... used to do all my own maintenance and I have a shop to do it in, yes LOF's are simple, warm the engine, drain the oil, retighten the plug to the proper torque and use a new crush washer. Make sure to oil the seal on the new filter and some people fill them too. I hand tighten my filters, never had a problem.

That being said, my local dealer only charges about $34 so for me, getting the benefit of documentation and the convenience, its worth it to use the dealer...

 

[pokemon9264]

what do you mean proper torque?

 

[jsukey]

I do the same. It's just really convenient and fairly cheap to let the dealership do it. I always changed the oil myself on my other vehicles. The rule of thumb that I always used was hand tighten until the gasket makes contact, then go another 1/2-3/4 of a turn. Definitely make sure you oil the gasket!!

 

[02_SE_Runner]

what do you mean proper torque?

He means torque the plug, like any other bolt on the car you "should" torque them, although almost all the time I hand tighten and do a feeler for how tight it should be I usually don't torque anything except for in the engine bay, or any moving object.


You guys need to get out of this hobby is you wont even change your own oil. Seriously though it's easy.
Step 1
Wait for engine oil to cool down if hot.
Step 2
Drain Oil
Step 3
Remove old oil filter
Step 4
Wait a little bit for all oil to stop dripping
Step 5
Oil the seal on the new oil filter and hand tighten, then go about half a turn over.
Step 6
Hand tighten Drain plug, then tighten it till snug
Step 7
Add required oil viscosity and amount.
Done.

 

[jsukey]

So I need to get out of this hobby because I don't change my own oil?? I have no place to work on my truck, or store an oil change pan because I live downtown in a highrise condo. Also, just like 4yotaguy said...I like having the peace of mind that comes with the 50 point inspection that the dealership does on my truck whenever they do the $34.95 oil change. You're just about spending that anyways on the oil and filter. Not to mention that they do all of that and then wash my truck for me.

 

[T4R_MTL]

While I love working on my cars/trucks oil change is something I rather have the garage do simply because I don't want a mess in my garage and the price is not that much more expensive

 

[TheDurk]

I always change my own. it's less hassle than driving somewhere and waiting while some minimum wage moron screws up a simple process and puts whatever brand of fluid the manager got a low bid on--and probably not the correct weight.

I admit I have a garage and a large parking area and a pretty deep selection of tools right there--and my county recycles fluids and filters for free.

I do torque the plugs, but it takes an extra 15 seconds to grab the torque wrench and dial in the number and know I did it right. Why not? All my cars have a label with plug wrench size and torque, oil weight and volume, and NAPA filter # on the rad support.

 

[jsukey]

I wish I had access to a shop! I only let the dealership do my oil changes though. When I first bought my '02 4Runner 6 years ago, I paid for a package that gave me 5 years worth of oil changes. It only added $3 to my monthly payment. I would say that it definitely paid for itself! They never did any wrong with me there so I've continued to go there. It's just easier that way.

 

[sggaz]

All my cars have a label with plug wrench size and torque, oil weight and volume, and NAPA filter # on the rad support.

Good idea. What type of label do you use to make it last in that environment? :noidea:

 

[TheDurk]

Good idea. What type of label do you use to make it last in that environment? :noidea:

I use the mylar metallized tape in the little Dymo printer thingy. The sweet spot is under the hood but not in the engine bay by where the hood lock is. They don't last forever, but I only had to replace the one in Junior's Accent where he left the oil cap off and it got sprayed.

 

[02_SE_Runner]

So I need to get out of this hobby because I don't change my own oil?? I have no place to work on my truck, or store an oil change pan because I live downtown in a highrise condo. Also, just like 4yotaguy said...I like having the peace of mind that comes with the 50 point inspection that the dealership does on my truck whenever they do the $34.95 oil change. You're just about spending that anyways on the oil and filter. Not to mention that they do all of that and then wash my truck for me.

It was a joke kind sir. :eyebrows:

I'm just saying for those who are really into this hobby, do it all there own. Inspect, wash and maintenance, if you don't have a place to work on your own truck that's not your fault, it's just you chose a hobby, that has personal gain/pride when working on ones truck. Some times dealerships don't even inspect a vehicle, or even do work on the truck for that matter. Also, if the dealer sees a small wear item, they will tell you it needs to be replaced even if that said item is fine, just to squeeze some hard earned cash out of you. I myself like the peace of mind, that I did the work, and I know how the work was done. Please feel free to watch this to understand where I am coming from. I know this was not a dealer, but the same can happen:
Jiffy Lube Scam Caught on Tape! - YouTube

While I love working on my cars/trucks oil change is something I rather have the garage do simply because I don't want a mess in my garage and the price is not that much more expensive

Then you don't love it enough. :rofl:

I use the mylar metallized tape in the little Dymo printer thingy. The sweet spot is under the hood but not in the engine bay by where the hood lock is. They don't last forever, but I only had to replace the one in Junior's Accent where he left the oil cap off and it got sprayed.

I keep all my info in a note pad in each vehicle, but I love this Idea, mind if I steal it? lol

 

[Nunyabiz]

Sadly I live in a townhome so do not have a place to do anything.

But I buy my own oil then just have one of 2 places I use do the change and dispose of oil and they only charge me $10, that way I get to see under my truck real good while it is up and I have them grease my zerks while the oil is draining.
Well worth the $10.

 

[I_bRAD]

Step 1
Wait for engine oil to cool down if hot.

I prefer to do the opposite and warm the engine up. You'll get a lot more of the old oil out that way, and more quickly to boot!

All my cars have a label with plug wrench size and torque, oil weight and volume, and NAPA filter # on the rad support.

Great idea!

OP- No big deal to do it, but don't forget to grease the driveshaft (and ball joints if they are the greasable kind) It won't hurt to rotate your tires while you're at it! If you do those three things every 5000kms your car will thank you!

 

[4yotaguy]

what do you mean proper torque?

What I mean is that one common error is to overtighten the drain plug- and on an aluminum pan that can mean cracking the pan, the main reason why I steer clear of Jiffy lube and unfortunately even some dealers...you can use a torque wrench or by feel....

 

[4yotaguy]

It was a joke kind sir. :eyebrows:

I'm just saying for those who are really into this hobby, do it all there own. Inspect, wash and maintenance, if you don't have a place to work on your own truck that's not your fault, it's just you chose a hobby, that has personal gain/pride when working on ones truck. Some times dealerships don't even inspect a vehicle, or even do work on the truck for that matter. Also, if the dealer sees a small wear item, they will tell you it needs to be replaced even if that said item is fine, just to squeeze some hard earned cash out of you. I myself like the peace of mind, that I did the work, and I know how the work was done. Please feel free to watch this to understand where I am coming from. I know this was not a dealer, but the same can happen:
Jiffy Lube Scam Caught on Tape! - YouTube


Then you don't love it enough. :rofl:


I keep all my info in a note pad in each vehicle, but I love this Idea, mind if I steal it? lol

Yeah, I know what you meant...lol. One of the exciting things about me getting a runner (finally) is that I can start doing more of my own work. I have access to my shop- on shop nights, but as I get older sometimes I get lazy, the thought of going into the dealer is just so much easier. That being said, although I plan on taking my new ride to the dealer for an oil change, I do other work myself as the labor costs can be ridiculous and in all honesty, as a once line-tech, I trust myself more and if I screw it up, learn from it and just redo it...BMW spoiled me with maintenance though as my 335 is covered and my older M3's are worked on by myself or friends at work...

 

[blizz86]

So I need to get out of this hobby because I don't change my own oil?? I have no place to work on my truck, or store an oil change pan because I live downtown in a highrise condo. Also, just like 4yotaguy said...I like having the peace of mind that comes with the 50 point inspection that the dealership does on my truck whenever they do the $34.95 oil change. You're just about spending that anyways on the oil and filter. Not to mention that they do all of that and then wash my truck for me.

I wouldnt be so quick to give dealerships all that good of praise, even ones where you have friends working at. Went in for an alignment, and got my printout and though it was in spec and he did was complain about how my lift couldnt get me back to midline specs "truly". I know you can't easily, its not a big deal. Better yet was their 50 pt inspection was just a bunch of blind checks: brake pads were nearly gone, calipers were at min width, tie rod boot was torn. And then the tech also lied to my face about my uneven tire wear. :l Also my passenger side was keyed the entire length in their shop.

Even with my dads '12, hes not going to be bringing it to the dealership for warrantied oil changes because we never KNOW what is going into our 40k trucks.

 

[02_SE_Runner]

I prefer to do the opposite and warm the engine up. You'll get a lot more of the old oil out that way, and more quickly to boot!



Great idea!

OP- No big deal to do it, but don't forget to grease the driveshaft (and ball joints if they are the greasable kind) It won't hurt to rotate your tires while you're at it! If you do those three things every 5000kms your car will thank you!

If the oil is scolding hot I prefer to let it cool down to a warm. lol

 

[USMC0351]

If the oil is scolding hot I prefer to let it cool down to a warm. lol

This came from my reciprocating engines intstructor at school (going for aircraft mechanic license, A&P) but the main reason for changing oil while it is hot is that once it cools down any solids or contaminants will settle instead of being suspended in the oil, therefore not draining out. And also as the engine cools there will be some water vapor that condenses on the inside of the case, not a very significant amount necessarily but it's there.

It is an aircraft school, yes, but I'm pretty sure it's applicable :typing:

 

[jsukey]

This came from my reciprocating engines intstructor at school (going for aircraft mechanic license, A&P) but the main reason for changing oil while it is hot is that once it cools down any solids or contaminants will settle instead of being suspended in the oil, therefore not draining out. And also as the engine cools there will be some water vapor that condenses on the inside of the case, not a very significant amount necessarily but it's there.

It is an aircraft school, yes, but I'm pretty sure it's applicable :typing:

I've submerged my 4wheeler several times and ingested water in the crankcase. Each time I drained the oil and changed the filter, started it up and let it run for a minute or two to get it up to operating temperature, then drain it again and change the filter. I repeat this several times until no milky oil comes out and it is clean. Run it good and hard for a couple of hours, and then change the oil and filter again. Haven't had a single problem after hundreds of miles and regular maintainance oil changes. It may not be the same as just regular condensation, but it's still there and needs to be taken out! Definitely applicable!