Oil filter q's

[Supra725]

so guys.. I ran my last oil filter an few weeks ago and I'm out..

I was wondering what everyone is running..

I used the oem filter from the dealer and it was about $4.50 + tax per filter.. however though.. there is an seller on ebay selling an whole case for $40..

another thing I was looking was the napa gold filter.. I called the local shop and is made by wix...

has anyone ran the wix filters? or should i try car quest blue's which are also made by wix?

my current oci is 5k with Mobil 1 synthetic and oem oil filter..

thanks.

 

[SCRunner12]

Just get the OEM's online with the crush washers and forget about buying one for the next few years. No use running to the store every time.

 

[white_n_slow]

Just get the OEM's online with the crush washers and forget about buying one for the next few years. No use running to the store every time.

I have done this with several previous cars (all of which I fully intended to keep for a long time), and ended up selling the car along with a pile of un-used filters.

I use the Napa Gold if I'm buying on a Sunday, or Toyota any other day of the week.

 

[Justin727]

so guys.. I ran my last oil filter an few weeks ago and I'm out..

I was wondering what everyone is running..

I used the oem filter from the dealer and it was about $4.50 + tax per filter.. however though.. there is an seller on ebay selling an whole case for $40..

another thing I was looking was the napa gold filter.. I called the local shop and is made by wix...

has anyone ran the wix filters? or should i try car quest blue's which are also made by wix?

my current oci is 5k with Mobil 1 synthetic and oem oil filter..

thanks.

I run WIX when I don't run OEM filters. WIX makes a good filter

 

[TheDurk]

I'm a little different--I invest more in the filter than the oil. I run SuperTech Full Syn and NAPA's new Platinum synthetic media filter in oversize (Taurus), Part#41516. They cost $12.49 but SuperTech oil is cheap. My UOA's at 7500-8000 OCI from Blackstone look good.

 

[JayRolla]

OEM everything is always the best.

 

[CarbonCrew]

I'm a little different--I invest more in the filter than the oil. I run SuperTech Full Syn and NAPA's new Platinum synthetic media filter in oversize (Taurus), Part#41516. They cost $12.49 but SuperTech oil is cheap. My UOA's at 7500-8000 OCI from Blackstone look good.

Probably a good move. Having the 'right' oil is highly overrated. Any oil with the starburst is good these days.

 

[Greg_Canada]

I use OEM toyota filters, however i use the "D3" off the 2uz (1st gen) tundra's... it is the same diameter but taller. It's about the same price. It fits fine.

 

[snivilous]

I use the NAPA filter and it works fine. It's maybe an extra 5 minutes to replace the filter each time so I don't care.

 

[SaltyNaulty]

At my shop we use performax and Quaker state, both brands are very good and are made in the USA, much higher quality than mileguard or fram which we used when I worked for jiffy lube. If you can get your hands on a case of performax PO21 oil filters you will be all set. Hell we even have a guy using our performax filters in his STS twin turbo z06 and full bolt on ZR1

 

[Singtoe]

Solvent traps for cleaning guns...

 

[Nunyabiz]

All oil today is not the same.
I would go with a full synthetic, any 100% synthetic oil is better than the very best petroleum oil ever will be.

I prefer Amsoil, though Redline is also good.
In some applications redline is really a better oil as it is a class V ester based oil, while Amsoil is a PAO class IV

As for a filter I use the Amsoil EA15K51 filter, I rarely let the oil go past about 5-6000 miles or 1 year which ever comes first.
I let it go just over 8000 on last oil change because it was almost all highway miles in 27 days. oil still looked and felt good when it was drained and I doubt that I lost/burned a tablespoon in 8000 miles.
If I drove a buttload of highway miles I would install a bypass filter and probably let the oil go about 12,000 miles

 

[Shibby!]

Solvent traps for cleaning guns...

Haha..

I think you know why that's on there...

For us CDN's, that's jail time.

 

[BlazeRunner]

This is one thing I don't understand. Toyota spent who knows how much money investing in engineers whose only job is to figure out things like oil filter flow rates, filter hole locations and sizes, yet people go out and pick up filters that were designed for numerous different vehicles with sometimes the wrong number, size and location of holes, either restricting or opening up oil flow rates and possibly causing issues. OEM filters for these vehicles are very high quality, and pretty affordable, too. I see no reason whatsoever to stray from OEM specs on something as important as oil delivery to an engine's internals. While some filters may work (for who knows how long), why risk it? Buying aftermarket filters is like assuming you know more than Toyota engineers about their motor design... but in the end it comes down to it being your vehicle, so do whatever you want with it. I wouldn't even consider WIX, amsoil, Mobil 1, over Toyota filters... sometimes when cut open they're just paper filters like the no-good fram filters. Toyota filters have a metal cap and dense filter pleats inside. I've seen them cut open compared to each other in all the top name brands and I will definitely stick with the OEM after seeing that.

 

[T4R2014]

Just get the OEM's online with the crush washers and forget about buying one for the next few years. No use running to the store every time.

Small question. The OEM filters come with the crush washer? The ones from my local dealer don't.

 

[TheDurk]

This is one thing I don't understand. Toyota spent who knows how much money investing in engineers whose only job is to figure out things like oil filter flow rates, filter hole locations and sizes, yet people go out and pick up filters that were designed for numerous different vehicles with sometimes the wrong number, size and location of holes, either restricting or opening up oil flow rates and possibly causing issues. OEM filters for these vehicles are very high quality, and pretty affordable, too. I see no reason whatsoever to stray from OEM specs on something as important as oil delivery to an engine's internals. While some filters may work (for who knows how long), why risk it? Buying aftermarket filters is like assuming you know more than Toyota engineers about their motor design... but in the end it comes down to it being your vehicle, so do whatever you want with it. I wouldn't even consider WIX, amsoil, Mobil 1, over Toyota filters... sometimes when cut open they're just paper filters like the no-good fram filters. Toyota filters have a metal cap and dense filter pleats inside. I've seen them cut open compared to each other in all the top name brands and I will definitely stick with the OEM after seeing that.

I live three miles from a NAPA store and I have used their WIX filters (oil, air, and fuel) in every car and tractor I maintain since the store was built in 1977. I have never had a problem that could be attributed to engine lubrication. This includes a '74 Mercedes, an '85 BMW and a '94 Saab that all went over 220k miles. That's a LOT of cars and a LOT of filters. I trust WIX. Filtering oil is not rocket science.

 

[T4R2014]

I agree. The oil and filter thing is very over-discussed. I've seen 300k 3rd Gens running good with unknown oil and filters. Also, keep in mind that Toyota has changed their oil filter designs over the years. All of our 3rd Gens rolled off the line with the 90915-20004 filter. Now, Toyota has stopped selling this filter and replaced it with the 90915-YZZD1! This filter is a much different design. Also, I see on IH8MUD that guys smuggle these 20004 filters from Japan because they are actually better! It's really a never ending topic on what the best is. I just use the YZZD1 filter because I like the design and it is a bargain at ~4.00.

 

[white_n_slow]

Buying aftermarket filters is like assuming you know more than Toyota engineers about their motor design... but in the end it comes down to it being your vehicle, so do whatever you want with it.

I have been wrenching on cars since I was a teenager, and I can say with certainty that OEM engineers either half-ass or overlook many important design elements. Cases in point: 7mge/gte and 3vz chronic head gasket failures... took Toyota a decade to get around to fixing an obvious problem. Taco/4runner/Tundra/Sequoia LBJ's: would have been easy to fix the design so a ball joint failure wouldn't spell death on the road, but they didn't fix it until 2003. Rear upper shock mounts: suck so bad anywhere where dirt or rust is possible that you can't remove the shocks without destroying them.

And that's just Toyota.

 

[SCRunner12]

Small question. The OEM filters come with the crush washer? The ones from my local dealer don't.

No, but they have the package deals online that Supra was looking at. 10 filters and 10 crush washers for $40 or so. I've reused crush washers, but they are nice to have for peace of mind. Although my next oil change I will be getting fumoto drain valve so no more mess.

 

[Nunyabiz]

This is one thing I don't understand. Toyota spent who knows how much money investing in engineers whose only job is to figure out things like oil filter flow rates, filter hole locations and sizes, yet people go out and pick up filters that were designed for numerous different vehicles with sometimes the wrong number, size and location of holes, either restricting or opening up oil flow rates and possibly causing issues. OEM filters for these vehicles are very high quality, and pretty affordable, too. I see no reason whatsoever to stray from OEM specs on something as important as oil delivery to an engine's internals. While some filters may work (for who knows how long), why risk it? Buying aftermarket filters is like assuming you know more than Toyota engineers about their motor design... but in the end it comes down to it being your vehicle, so do whatever you want with it. I wouldn't even consider WIX, amsoil, Mobil 1, over Toyota filters... sometimes when cut open they're just paper filters like the no-good fram filters. Toyota filters have a metal cap and dense filter pleats inside. I've seen them cut open compared to each other in all the top name brands and I will definitely stick with the OEM after seeing that.

Yet those very same engineers created engines that would Sludge even if you changed your oil every 3000 miles.
I guess then that we can assume your 4Runner is dead stock?

Stock tires and rims, stock height, stock springs and shocks, stock muffler and exhaust system, stock intake, etc?

I think very few cars/trucks made for the general population are ever engineered all that damn good from any manufacturer, they are too busy trying to make it appeal to the lowest common denominator.
If Toyota's were engineered to perfection then everyone would be driving dead stock 4Runners.