Oil filter - Rant - call for help

[bak3rme]

I do a majority of the work on my cars in the driveway. The 4runner was new to me so I thought for the first few oil changes I'll let the dealership deal with it. Great right? Well today I was doing fluids on the 4R I get to the oil filter and this thing is TIGHT. Its still not off yet and idk how the dealership got it on and if they even changed it last time since they might of ran into this problem.

I went to advance to grab one of those oil filter caps remover for Toyota, came home attached to my 3/8ths socket and it stripped. I bought another one where i attach a 17 mM socket directly to it and with a 3 ft breaker bar it doesn't even move.

I say forget it, i'll risk it all and attach an air tool to the dang thing and if it sheers it sheers...andddd it sheers. All 3 tabs snapped off and the oil filter cap is still stuck on there.

yes, lefty loose, yes I took off the 3/8ths metal cap before trying to pull this oil filter cap off.

idk what the dealership does with this to get it so dang tight. It needs to be hand-tightened and thats it.

Now I have to spend some time to slowly chisel this oil filter cap off and replace the whole thing.

Why can't toyota make a regular screw on oil filter in this spot

 

[rdruss]

I don't have a 5th gen so don't have to deal with it and IF I had a 5th gen don't think I'd deal with it long, I'd put on the spin-on kit that's available and be done with it!

 

[DougR]

I Googled "how to remove a broken oil filter housing" to see if there was advice for your predicament. One frequent suggestion is to tap the housing with a dead blow hammer and a block of wood. There are instances where a plastic or metal housing was stuck and successfully removed as shown in this and other videos Tip To Remove A Stuck Toyota Oil Filter Housing - YouTube Is there any way you can still get a grip on the housing? I know the tabs are broken. Are the points rounded off so that the socket no longer grips? Does the oil housing wrench fit tightly on the points? If not, take up the slack with paper. Does the cap have holes in it where the tabs used to be? Inserting a tool through those holes is likely to damage metal strainer that supports the oil filter. If you have any mechanical means to remove the cap, such as a strap wrench or using an extension on the drain plug, then I suggest tapping the cap first to break loose mating threads that are ultra smooth and prone to sticking due to thermocycling. See also Oil change horror | Toyota Tundra Forum (add the words "toyota" and "forums" to the above Google search to bring up more hits that are relevant.)

 

[Blue 4ever Runner]

This is why there are so many complaints here about dealers doing oil changes. It seems the majority of the time they mess something up. Get the aluminum canister, replace the plastic one and NEVER let a dealer do an oil change! You could go the spin on filter route but I kinda like seeing what might be in the filter. I know it's a Toyota so I'm pretty darn sure there will never be any metal in there but that's just me.

 

[RichinRidgewood]

The best oil filter wrench I could find

Assenmacher Tool of Boulder, Colorado Toyota Filter Wrench

 

[00Sebby]

The plastic housing is very snug. When I change the oil, I only hand-tighten mine until it stops. Yet, every time it is very tight when I remove it. It does respond to constant pressure. So if you try to force it to loosen quickly, I could see it stripping with the cheap stamped filter wrenches. An air wrench will likely shatter the housing because the plastic will not respond well to impact. I think if you have a good filter wrench or can get a band wrench around it and apply constant pressure, you will find it will give and loosen up.

 

[seatia]

The best oil filter wrench I could find

Assenmacher Tool of Boulder, Colorado Toyota Filter Wrench

Nope

This one is better.
Chrome plated forged steel, so it is a bunch stronger than that 50 buck one.
Only problem, it's $59.00 :bounce:
61040 65mm 14 Flute End Cap Wrench for Toyota | Lisle Corporation

In reality the Motivx alum one is fine if you're worried about rust, but 6061 alum is about the cheapest to buy, nothing special there.
Autozone and OReilly both have one for $10 and Advance Auto has what looks to be the same for $14.
The stamped steel ones with the slots are more than enough.
If you need more for a really stuck one, go get a webbed strap wrench.

I use the $10 steel one and a Dorman alum canister.
Lots of choices, good luck.

 

[RichinRidgewood]

I do a majority of the work on my cars in the driveway. The 4runner was new to me so I thought for the first few oil changes I'll let the dealership deal with it. Great right? Well today I was doing fluids on the 4R I get to the oil filter and this thing is TIGHT. Its still not off yet and idk how the dealership got it on and if they even changed it last time since they might of ran into this problem.

I went to advance to grab one of those oil filter caps remover for Toyota, came home attached to my 3/8ths socket and it stripped. I bought another one where i attach a 17 mM socket directly to it and with a 3 ft breaker bar it doesn't even move.

I say forget it, i'll risk it all and attach an air tool to the dang thing and if it sheers it sheers...andddd it sheers. All 3 tabs snapped off and the oil filter cap is still stuck on there.

yes, lefty loose, yes I took off the 3/8ths metal cap before trying to pull this oil filter cap off.

idk what the dealership does with this to get it so dang tight. It needs to be hand-tightened and thats it.

Now I have to spend some time to slowly chisel this oil filter cap off and replace the whole thing.

Why can't toyota make a regular screw on oil filter in this spot

That is dog sausage.
It does not fit over the tabs completely and based on what I have seen that is a big issue.

That other brand doesn't do it either and it appears to be a sh'eet Chinese tool pimped by an American shill and it breaks the housing equally as easily.

 

[CollinJ]

I don't have a 5th gen so don't have to deal with it and IF I had a 5th gen don't think I'd deal with it long, I'd put on the spin-on kit that's available and be done with it!

So I’ve looked into this option for mine. There is something major I’m not a fan of and it’s altering the oil system on a 40k truck. It’s the life blood of a vehicle and I would be too worried regardless of how high end the kit is of issues down the road. It’s VERY tempting though.

I went with an OEM metal cap and have had no issues since and feel much better when changing the oil.

 

[rdruss]

So I’ve looked into this option for mine. There is something major I’m not a fan of and it’s altering the oil system on a 40k truck. It’s the life blood of a vehicle and I would be too worried regardless of how high end the kit is of issues down the road. It’s VERY tempting though.

I went with an OEM metal cap and have had no issues since and feel much better when changing the oil.

As long as you're comfortable with it and don't mind the additional hassle, works for you!

 

[Tuco Ramirez]

This is why there are so many complaints here about dealers doing oil changes. It seems the majority of the time they mess something up. Get the aluminum canister, replace the plastic one and NEVER let a dealer do an oil change! You could go the spin on filter route but I kinda like seeing what might be in the filter. I know it's a Toyota so I'm pretty darn sure there will never be any metal in there but that's just me.

Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.

 

[yota1976]

I had my first oil change last month on my 2019 TRD OR and they managed to break off a skid plate bolt. Took it back and they fixed it. After that, I ordered a Motivx kit off Amazon. A friend of my wife's suggested I try the Toyota dealership she uses. Said they've always had good luck with them and have been using them for many years. I might let them do the next one and see how it goes. But as soon as the free oil changes are done, I'll definitely be doing them myself.

 

[pointman]

I had my first oil change last month on my 2019 TRD OR and they managed to break off a skid plate bolt. Took it back and they fixed it. After that, I ordered a Motivx kit off Amazon. A friend of my wife's suggested I try the Toyota dealership she uses. Said they've always had good luck with them and have been using them for many years. I might let them do the next one and see how it goes. But as soon as the free oil changes are done, I'll definitely be doing them myself.

All these dealerships claim to be awarded for their service departments yet I have never found an actual online listing showing accredited service departments. I wish that was readily available. Maybe my searching skills aren't up to par. Sure would be great to be able to find a reliable service dept.

 

[gp55445]

I switched to the metal housing because I don't like the idea of plastic holding in engine oil.

I go hand tight, then 1/8" more and I'm done. No leaks and no hassle.

 

[patkelly4370]

I passed on the free dealership oil changes because of the stories on here, and the dealer is over an hour away on paved roads. Two hours using the offroad shortcut.
So I've done my first oil change. Used the Motivx tool to gently remove the overtighten plastic housing. All went well, other than laying on gravel to do it. Really need to pour a slab.
So now I know it will go swimmingly the next time. Hopefully I'll have an aftermarket skid plate for the next oil change and make subsequent changes even easier.
Also will install the Fumoto valve at that time too.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Blue 4ever Runner]

Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.

I realize that, I'm only suggesting that he get what I and many others consider to be a superior part because the plastic one he has is already ruined. I never said anything about it "fixing everything" so please refrain from name calling and inferring what people here are saying. I'm fully aware that a jerk can over tighten the aluminum one as well. You'd think the dealer could at least instruct their personnel how to use a torque wrench. I've had "mechanics" use a filter wrench on a spin on filter too so nothing is a fix if the installer is incompetent.

 

[bak3rme]

Thanks for the tips guys. I don't care what material metal or FRP/plastic, as long as it holds and seals I'll be fine. Looks like I'm driving the racecar to work until I can find time to chisel the housing off! Will def share pictures as i'm going through the process.

 

[yota1976]

Thanks for the tips guys. I don't care what material metal or FRP/plastic, as long as it holds and seals I'll be fine. Looks like I'm driving the racecar to work until I can find time to chisel the housing off! Will def share pictures as i'm going through the process.

Haha, I've got a street/strip truck, but I really would hate to drive it to work more than a few days in a row! 10 mpg's (driving normal), no windshield wipers and the engine sticking out of the hood, haha.

 

[Ape Runner]

I have a metal cap where the ratchet/extension male fits into the camp tool and that has never stripped on me.

BUT, I grew so frustrated at how this oil cap made me feel like a rookie mechanic that I spent this past weekend installing a full Baxter relocation setup:

 

[ElectroBoy]

You’re in samurai warrior mode now. Get your new replacement Toyota metal housing and new oil filter and gaskets on deck and attack that busted up plastic filter.

Get a large channel lock pliers or a plumber’s pipe wrench. Engulf that plastic housing high up the best you can, and unscrew it by pulling on the wrench slowly with constant force. No sudden movements. You may need additional leverage with a length of pipe over the handle of the wrench. In addition to being cranked on too tight the rubber gasket was probably not lubed before installation and it binds.