Oil Stablizer??
- Thread starter yamaherb
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TSP-MIKE
New member
Well like you i wanted something more for my 4runner since it did have over 250,000 miles. I did some research and found out that the oil stabilizer wasn't very good. I remember i found a web page somewhere that showed a video of the lucas stabilizer and some other ones and they tested it. I didn't believe them so i made my own and bought the stabilizers, tried it and to my belief it was true. A few months later my friends 4runner broke, it was a 1994. I took the engine apart to see why it went bad and i saw a much of hot spots on the bearings. I asked him what oil he was using and he told me castol oil, and the lucas oil stabilizer.
So that to me was the lesson learned.
Mike
So that to me was the lesson learned.
Mike
TSP-MIKE
New member
I have witnessed that once you use synthetic and switch back to dino oil the motor will go. One of my friends used sythetic in his honda since the day he bought it, when the fuel started to get high he figured he could save money and switch back to dino oil. Around 6 months later he motor started knocking. He brought it back to the dealer and they told him the bearings were going out. Luckily they replaced the motor under warranty.
That's my experience, but it's not 100%. It wasn't proven.
BTW, here's my theory. Once an engine uses sythetic, it gets used to the slipperyness of the stythetic oil, once you put the dino back in, the bearing's is not spinning as freely with the dino oil, it'll start eating it out. Almost the same theory as not to use synthetic in a freshly built or rebuilt motor until after the breakin period. The sythetic will not let the engine breakin properly because it's too slick.
My $.02!
Mike
That's my experience, but it's not 100%. It wasn't proven.
BTW, here's my theory. Once an engine uses sythetic, it gets used to the slipperyness of the stythetic oil, once you put the dino back in, the bearing's is not spinning as freely with the dino oil, it'll start eating it out. Almost the same theory as not to use synthetic in a freshly built or rebuilt motor until after the breakin period. The sythetic will not let the engine breakin properly because it's too slick.
My $.02!
Mike
Thats Why I say To Research . Before putting anything in your Eng.I would never want to put any thing to my Eng. I could not undo. In reseaching this I have seen many post, on this sight and others ,where people have put sythetic oil in older Eng.s and have had the Eng. to start leaking oil.Because this oil will flow where Dino.oil will not.Something to think about.
Quote...
I have witnessed that once you use synthetic and switch back to dino oil the motor will go. One of my friends used sythetic in his honda since the day he bought it, when the fuel started to get high he figured he could save money and switch back to dino oil. Around 6 months later he motor started knocking. He brought it back to the dealer and they told him the bearings were going out. Luckily they replaced the motor under warranty.
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You observed a problem and came to the wrong conclusion.
You can switch back and forth, go half and half and the oil will never be the problem. If you switch a high mileage engine to synthetic be prepared to put you hand on the oil filter, often, and change the filter when it's colder than the engine (plugged).
To clean out a gunked up engine, use Marvel Mystry Oil, first. Bad engine, use a quart, run it 1k miles and change oil and filter. Simple.
I have witnessed that once you use synthetic and switch back to dino oil the motor will go. One of my friends used sythetic in his honda since the day he bought it, when the fuel started to get high he figured he could save money and switch back to dino oil. Around 6 months later he motor started knocking. He brought it back to the dealer and they told him the bearings were going out. Luckily they replaced the motor under warranty.
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You observed a problem and came to the wrong conclusion.
You can switch back and forth, go half and half and the oil will never be the problem. If you switch a high mileage engine to synthetic be prepared to put you hand on the oil filter, often, and change the filter when it's colder than the engine (plugged).
To clean out a gunked up engine, use Marvel Mystry Oil, first. Bad engine, use a quart, run it 1k miles and change oil and filter. Simple.
Larry is right, you can go back and forth from synthetic to dyno. In fact, most synthetics will say on the bottle if they are compatible with dyno or other oils or not. You would just not get the full benefits of the synthetic - so it doesn't make much sense.
The only time you have to worry is if you are using a PAO (poly-alpha-olephin) synthetic with an ester based. Then they are not compatible - the good news is that ester based oils are pretty rare today.
Oil stabilizer is a waste of money. Buy a high quality (preferably synthetic) oil and don't worry about it. The oil will come with all the additives you could need.
The comments about changing your oil filter are also well founded. Be careful if you have a high mileage engine and you switch to synthetic. The synthetic will tend to losen some of the "crud" in your engine and clean it out. So, stick to your typical dyno oil drain interval for at least your first oil change w/ synthetic. Then, you can start extending the drain interval. If you are concerned there are companies that will do oil analysis for you at a pretty nominal charge ($10-15 / sample).
The only time you have to worry is if you are using a PAO (poly-alpha-olephin) synthetic with an ester based. Then they are not compatible - the good news is that ester based oils are pretty rare today.
Oil stabilizer is a waste of money. Buy a high quality (preferably synthetic) oil and don't worry about it. The oil will come with all the additives you could need.
The comments about changing your oil filter are also well founded. Be careful if you have a high mileage engine and you switch to synthetic. The synthetic will tend to losen some of the "crud" in your engine and clean it out. So, stick to your typical dyno oil drain interval for at least your first oil change w/ synthetic. Then, you can start extending the drain interval. If you are concerned there are companies that will do oil analysis for you at a pretty nominal charge ($10-15 / sample).
