OME 885s, 5100's at 0.85

[dkyleb]

Talk about beating a horse to death... I know, I know!

I've decided to re-do my front lift. My FJ coils have grown tired, and with my 5100's at the 2.5" perch, I'm seeing less than 2.5" of lift...There is an over abundance of information online. So much so, that it's almost impossible to decipher what is what.

Here is what I'm thinking:

OME 885s with my Bilstein 5100's set to the 0.85" perch:

I have roughly 100lbs added to the front of my truck from the hidden winch. Many people run 885's at 0 on 5100s with a 1/4" top out spacer, netting them 3" of lift. I believe that with my added 110lbs and the 0.85" of added lift, I should be able to net 3" of lift.

I understand that both Bilstein and ARB do not recommend this. Oh well.

I just want 3" of lift, dang it!

 

[dkyleb]

Anyone? Ready to pull the trigger today!

 

[having fun]

At work now. As for food for thought, it was a PIA to put them on mine with a 0 setting.

 

[blackoutt]

I would say leave the 885's at 0 and run a bigger topout spacer. I'm running one 1/4 toytec spacer on my driver side only to fix the lean and am getting somewhere between 2.5-3" of lift. The more you preload the springs the rougher it will ride. The 885's will probably ride great on 0 setting with your extra weight, just throw the thicker spacer on top to get the full 3"


On my drivers side only
http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/TP14--Front-Top-Plate-Spacer-One-14-thick-spacer_p_351.html

885 @ 0 plus this should be 3" for you and ride great.
http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/TOP1-T--Front-Top-Plate-Spacer-Kit-_p_333.html#

 

[timbo_slice]

I understand that both Bilstein and ARB do not recommend this. Oh well.

I just want 3" of lift, dang it!

I have a clarifying question for ya... do they not recommend running aftermarket springs with 5100 on any other clip but the .85?

I am about to do toytech springs with 5100s. A buddy said use stock springs up front at the 1.8 clip and 2" toytech in rear. Since my stock springs have 114k I want to go for toytech front and back with 5100 on zero for 1.8 (not competently sure on lift gained with toytech on 0 clip, but read a few people got 1.6-1.8) in the front 2" in the back.

 

[Drunner97]

I'd have to measure to see what I'm actually at, but 5100s @ 0 + 885s with an extra battery, sliders, and skid plates is pretty comfortable.

 

[dkyleb]

I would say leave the 885's at 0 and run a bigger topout spacer. I'm running one 1/4 toytec spacer on my driver side only to fix the lean and am getting somewhere between 2.5-3" of lift. The more you preload the springs the rougher it will ride. The 885's will probably ride great on 0 setting with your extra weight, just throw the thicker spacer on top to get the full 3"


On my drivers side only
http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/TP14--Front-Top-Plate-Spacer-One-14-thick-spacer_p_351.html

885 @ 0 plus this should be 3" for you and ride great.
http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/TOP1-T--Front-Top-Plate-Spacer-Kit-_p_333.html#

Thanks for taking the time to post this.

My question is, what's the difference between using a 1/4" top out spacer or using the 0.85 perch besides the 0.35"? Is it just ease of install because the top out spacer sits on top of the top hat and you don't have to compress the 885 another .425"?

 

[Powder_Hound]

I'm running the 885's with OME shocks and I'm suspecting I netted 3 1/2 without the winch or bumper. It's hard to state exactly as I had a 2 1/2" spacer in there before and when I updated I gained a little over an inch. I know it's not the Billstein shock, but thought I'd share.

You could always add a body lift if you don't get the full 3!!!!:cheers:

 

[blackoutt]

Thanks for taking the time to post this.

My question is, what's the difference between using a 1/4" top out spacer or using the 0.85 perch besides the 0.35"? Is it just ease of install because the top out spacer sits on top of the top hat and you don't have to compress the 885 another .425"?

Moving the perch up puts more preload on the spring. The shock has a fully extended length, and moving the perch up doesn't make the shock any longer but makes the length in which the spring lives shorter (if the shock is already at or close to full extended with full vehicle weight). Same idea as adjusting the collars on the rear shock of a dirt bike to set sag. Too much preload and you'll always be running the shock at one end of the stoke, probably top out the shock all the time, and spring will resist compressing more = stiffer ride. This is why with stock length springs you can run at the 2.5 notch, but with the much longer 885's it's not recommended to go above 0. With no extra weight on my 885's at 0 it rides a little rough sometimes. When I load up with camping setup (albeit mostly in the rear) it rides a little bit better. Like Drunner I think you'll be perfect for ride with your weight at 0 and a spacer.

NOW, adding a spacer on top does NOT preload the spring any more, it's already assembled, leaving the spring at a the desirable lower preload but the spacer still pushes your control arms down, giving you lift without significantly changing ride quality. The shock/spring is still functioning the same with the spacer on top just in a slightly different geometry.

I will also warn you that I attempted to run the thicker spacers on top of 885's set at 0 and ran into CV bind at full droop on the drivers side. (This would not happen with 885's set at .85 because they have a max length and setting the perch higher doesn't make full droop any lower). It must just be the geometry of my truck or crappy CV's because I've seen others run the thicker spacers with no issues. There was one guy who machined a bit off of his inner CP cup to avoid this issue. One of the limitations of IFS. This is why I stuck with what I had and added the 1" body lift for more tire to body clearance.

 

[dkyleb]

Moving the perch up puts more preload on the spring. The shock has a fully extended length, and moving the perch up doesn't make the shock any longer but makes the length in which the spring lives shorter (if the shock is already at or close to full extended with full vehicle weight). Same idea as adjusting the collars on the rear shock of a dirt bike to set sag. Too much preload and you'll always be running the shock at one end of the stoke, probably top out the shock all the time, and spring will resist compressing more = stiffer ride. This is why with stock length springs you can run at the 2.5 notch, but with the much longer 885's it's not recommended to go above 0. With no extra weight on my 885's at 0 it rides a little rough sometimes. When I load up with camping setup (albeit mostly in the rear) it rides a little bit better. Like Drunner I think you'll be perfect for ride with your weight at 0 and a spacer.

NOW, adding a spacer on top does NOT preload the spring any more, it's already assembled, leaving the spring at a the desirable lower preload but the spacer still pushes your control arms down, giving you lift without significantly changing ride quality. The shock/spring is still functioning the same with the spacer on top just in a slightly different geometry.

I will also warn you that I attempted to run the thicker spacers on top of 885's set at 0 and ran into CV bind at full droop on the drivers side. (This would not happen with 885's set at .85 because they have a max length and setting the perch higher doesn't make full droop any lower). It must just be the geometry of my truck or crappy CV's because I've seen others run the thicker spacers with no issues. There was one guy who machined a bit off of his inner CP cup to avoid this issue. One of the limitations of IFS. This is why I stuck with what I had and added the 1" body lift for more tire to body clearance.

This! This is the exact post I was looking for. Thank you so much for writing all this down in one spot, it explains everything.

So, my final question is: by adding that 1/4" top out spacer to the top of the struts, do I gain an extra 1/2" of lift, as per the usual? I'll probably need longer studs in my top plates, too?

 

[blackoutt]

This! This is the exact post I was looking for. Thank you so much for writing all this down in one spot, it explains everything.

So, my final question is: by adding that 1/4" top out spacer to the top of the struts, do I gain an extra 1/2" of lift, as per the usual? I'll probably need longer studs in my top plates, too?

Yes the "thin" 1/4" spacer multiplied out by the geometry nets ~1/2" lift (could vary quite a bit). For the thin spacer only it does not require longer studs. I put longer studs on mine planning to do the thicker spacers that caused CV binding and now just waste a ton of wrench turns to get those 3 nuts on and off. Any thread past the nut isn't doing anything once torqued down. You might even be able to get away the thick spacers on stock studs, just look at how much is sticking up on your stock ones now.

 

[having fun]

Yes, you would gain 1/2" with that spacer. I have the SW bumper w/winch, plates, sliders and roof rack. A rough estimate of 2 5/8" lift height.
Also tried using a 10mm top hat to cure the driver lean and had the CV bind also, REAL bad bind (full wheel drop).

I'm now have my isolator(new one installed) with lift, and my coil end just compressed it and cut through it on the coil wrap end. Ordering White knuckle's poly version isolator to see if this helps.

 

[dkyleb]

Thanks for the replies everyone!

I've decided to go with 885s, a 1/4" poly spacer for the passenger side, and a 3/8" poly spacer for the drivers side.

 

[kyle 03Runner]

If i have a 1/2 lean on the drive side and im putting in 885 coils can i use the 1/4 inch spacers on both sides and add a 10mm spacer on drive side to get a full 3 in the front, and get rid of the lean at the same time?

 

[kyle 03Runner]

Dkyleb, Did that set up take care of your lean up front with the 885 coils?