Opinions from those who have used 1-2" lift spacer kits

[drallan]

Too Long / Didn't Read

99 Ltd 165K 4wd, 3.4L, 265/15/16 Revo II, no armor, no hard wheeling. DD w/ light farm field/snow use, sits 20.5" center hub to bottom of Ltd fender.
I'm happy with current ride but need new shocks want a cheap 1-2" (prefer closer to 1") for just a little boost in height and hopefully alleviate tire rub.
I would like any input from those who have actually used a spacer kit by itself (preferably on a 99).

Thanks,


For the full novel see below


I know this topic has been beaten to death but would like some opinions on my particular situation. I have read and searched all the threads until my brain was scrambled. Think I've actually confused myself with too much info.

Backstory
99 Ltd w/ 165k on the clock
Currently sits 20.5-21" (a little DS lean) from center hub to LTD fender w/ 265/75/16 Revo IIs. Light rubbing at full turn.
DD - 90% road time with light farm field and snow (live in MD so some years its bad, some years nothing).
No armor, no plans for armor
Only tow a 22' boat a handful of times a year about 20 miles round trip.
No regular hard wheeling expected
Happy with current feel, but it is a little bouncy. Figured original shocks have served their purpose.
Truck runs like a top (knock on wood) and most of the big maintenance items have been taken care of in the past year: TB/WP/Belts, LBJs, Tranny Cooler, Rear Axle Seals, Plugs/Wires.

Currently have a new set of KYB shocks/struts (front & rear), NAPA OTEs & ITEs, and Prothane sway bar bushings (front and back) sitting in my garage ready to be put on. I did the LBJs last summer w/ NAPAs and they should be good. Need to replace front 2 tires due to alignment being off (pulls right) and worn TEs. All parts were slowly collected over winter with plans of doing all the work in one weekend this spring (have access to a shop w/ lift and wall mounted spring compressor), then get new tires.

Here is the kicker. Thanks to winning my Fantasy Football league I now have $300 extra in play money and was considering a small lift before/when I do the rest of the work. Basically because I like the look and want to eliminate the front rub I get with my 265/75/16s
Below are the options I have narrowed it down too, a quick opinion would be greatly appreciated:

1) Don't lift, no real need, deal with rubbing (only occurs at full turns like when backing in/out of parking spaces). This is the most practical and sensible option. Maybe buy a full set of new tires instead of replacing just the fronts. Rears only have about 20K on them and are in good shape for another year or two, but who doesn't like new tires. Maybe upgrade to Duratracs or something.
Pros: Free, maybe get better tires
Cons: No lift

2) Cheap spacer lift. I only really want 1, 2" max, enough to eliminate rub and get a little more height. Should be able to use my KYB shocks and have some money left over.
Pros: Cheapest option, but I still get a little lift
Cons: Harsher ride? Increased spring wear? (see rant below)

3) Tacoma/Tundra Bilstein 5100s for front on 2nd perch and 1.25" spacer for rear. Keep KYB rear shocks and try to resell my fronts.
Pros: More flexibility with height if I decide I want more/less lift in the future. Better ride than spacers? (see rant below)
Cons: Cost more and I already have struts.


That is about what I have narrowed it down too. I realize you get what you pay for and my budget lift won't be the same as full set of coilovers and rears. I know with enough patience and time I can find all the pieces from junkyards/CL/here for cheap, but I want to get this done soon and don't really have the time to keep trying different combinations of front/rear springs until I am happy. And I'm not really looking for a full 2.5-3".

Rant below - feel free to stop reading

On a side note:
I'm not trying to start the preload debate and I'm no rocket scientist. I've read all the threads and discussions on the 5100's, and I'm still not sure how they are better/less wear than a top hat spacer other than the Tacoma/tundra shock is just a better shock. "Preload" doesn't make any sense in this context. Both a spacer and the 5100s essentially elongate the coil/strut assembly, one from the top (top had moves entire assembly down). And one from the bottom (Billy's just lengthen the bottom of the strut). Unless the shock is at it's max length then the spring isn't compressed any more or less based on lift type. Maybe the change in height effects front end geometry a bit more with one or the another, therefore the forces are distributed along the coil differently, but I don't see how the spring is "compressed".

It might seem that way when putting it together, but once the weight of the truck is on them both the shock and coil compress. But the spring height/length should be the same pre and post lift. Essentially all you are doing is spacing out between the UCA and LCA with the assembly, which is why you need longer shocks with taller coils. This whole concept of the bilsteins "compressing" and "preloading" the springs to provide lift makes absolutely no sense. Lower perch settings just give you more up travel before toping out and higher setting give less. I don't doubt any additional ride harshness, but I'd attribute that to front end geometry more than spring compression.

How does making the spring shorter make your truck taller?

I guess my point of the last paragraph is, that I'm looking for how the Bilsteins would be a better lift than just a spacer for my needs, so I can justify dropping a couple bills, other than its a better shock than my KYBs would be. I could be way off on my logic and don't want to be driving a brick, but I don't understand the logic behind the increased spring wear and harshness compared to the 5100s

Thanks if you read this far

 

[snivilous]

I'm not trying to start the preload debate and I'm no rocket scientist. I've read all the threads and discussions on the 5100's, and I'm still not sure how they are better/less wear than a top hat spacer other than the Tacoma/tundra shock is just a better shock. "Preload" doesn't make any sense in this context. Both a spacer and the 5100s essentially elongate the coil/strut assembly, one from the top (top had moves entire assembly down). And one from the bottom (Billy's just lengthen the bottom of the strut). Unless the shock is at it's max length then the spring isn't compressed any more or less based on lift type. Maybe the change in height effects front end geometry a bit more with one or the another, therefore the forces are distributed along the coil differently, but I don't see how the spring is "compressed".

It might seem that way when putting it together, but once the weight of the truck is on them both the shock and coil compress. But the spring height/length should be the same pre and post lift. Essentially all you are doing is spacing out between the UCA and LCA with the assembly, which is why you need longer shocks with taller coils. This whole concept of the bilsteins "compressing" and "preloading" the springs to provide lift makes absolutely no sense. Lower perch settings just give you more up travel before toping out and higher setting give less. I don't doubt any additional ride harshness, but I'd attribute that to front end geometry more than spring compression.

Didn't read your other stuff, but I totally agree on this. So far I haven't found anyone who actually explains this "concept" in a way that makes sense.

Like you said, if you change the perch location the ONLY thing that changes is the springs length at full droop...IE the preload. But once weight is on the springs they will compress the same amount in regards to the extended spring length regardless of the perch location. So for all practical purposes, all that is happening is the spring location moves higher. You aren't shortening the spring, you are simply moving it higher to make lift. Granted, you have to preload the spring if your shock isn't long enough but that's not what's changing the lift ultimately. And in that regard, a spacer is similar to moving the perch level. Not to say a full coilover isnt benefical but how people describe the shock geometry and preloading is usually totally wrong unless I'm missing something super obvious.

The preload change does affect full droop dynamics since the springs initial force output is higher, so forcing it to compress requires more force but once compressed at all the spring acts the same.

 

[sterbenlicht]

They offer a less harsh lift because once that lift is achieved by creating that pressure on the spring, the spring still has room to compress and the shock still has room to expand. Both directions are still available for the suspension to articulate some. With the under-the-hat spacer, it increases pressure on the spring, consumes a significant amount of the space it has to compress, and practically locks the strut in the completely extended position even when it's on the ground resulting in a very hard ride with nearly no shock absorption when hitting speed bumps and potholes.

Making the decision is really just a matter of your preferences for your ride and what you intend to do with your lifted truck. Try going for a ride in someone's spacer lifted truck to see the difference before committing to that route.

Edit: I also just read a little bit of the part above the rant. It looks like you're only considering a 1-2" spacer lift if you go that route. 1" won't be so severe of an effect on your ride quality, but you'll notice the stiffness. 2" will definitely be very noticeable, but probably something you'll get used to quickly. 3" will make the front suspension extremely stiff because it takes nearly all of the compression out of the strut assembly whereas the 1" and 2" will still leave some of it there.

One thing you'll notice with this option though is that the rear simply raises the truck, and the rear suspension still behaves much like factory quality. These harsh effects really occur on the front for the most part. You'll notice the front feels stiff, and the rear still travels and bounces through dips as usual.

 

[jasonoflivingston]

In regards to spacers in the rear, give some thought to extending your bump stops equivalently. If you don't, you can over compress your coils causing premature wear and sagging. Getting some junkyard bump stops from an old Jimmy or Blazer and cutting them as needed is a great way to do it on the cheap.

 

[Koch13351]

I have 3" spacers in the front and it's awful. Stiff, clunks sometimes when offroad from the spindle hitting the spring, and has virtually no down travel. But my buddy just had em sitting around when I was doing the LBJ's so it seemed like a good idea at the time. I'd go with the Bilsteins. Mine are on their way. Also, wheel spacers can make the rubbing worse as I found out. :doh:

 

[Mindomission]

Why not replace stock shocks and add a body lift, 1", 1 1/2" or 2".

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