Opinions on Bike Rack Attachments (Hitch Type)

Re: Re: Opinions on Bike Rack Attachments (Hitch Type)

silver4x419 said:
Try these guys out:

www.etrailer.com

Hope this helps. :)

See now this kind of pisses me off. Either they do not want to admit foreign car makers do make trucks, or they just do not want to acknowledge them. I already have a step insert, (Rhino Step) that is much bigger than these, it would be nice to have this with the Toyota symbol on it.
 
Re: Re: Re: Opinions on Bike Rack Attachments (Hitch Type)

Iman74 said:
See now this kind of pisses me off. Either they do not want to admit foreign car makers do make trucks, or they just do not want to acknowledge them. I already have a step insert, (Rhino Step) that is much bigger than these, it would be nice to have this with the Toyota symbol on it.

Yeah, I noticed that last night (':('). From aside from that, they have decent prices and selection on everything else.
 
Iman74 said:
YUP!!!

I took my sleeve that I was using on my Passport for my 4 Runner, but like you said, it hit the tire before the holes could line up...

So how much did you have to cut, and does that affect the stability of the mount? I like Yakima for their durability and swing-away feature. I know Thule also has similar mounts, does anyone know if they fit without modifications? Thanks.
 
I don't see how it can effect it since I only took off about two inches. In the end the entire unit fit into it. But if it's really a concern for you, when I bought my bike carrier I mentioned my conern and told them I wanted to try it before buying it. Well if they are good sales person they will do just about anything to get the sale, and it just fit.

But back to how I determined it, I slid it in as is, made a circle where it met, then used that as a guide on how much I can take off. It wasn't an exact science, more like educated guess if anything.
 
I bought a Saris B.A.T 3-bike rack 2 years ago. It's a piece of junk. The B.A.T. system is supposed to be versatile, but most full-suspension bikes are difficult to mount. Even hardtails are not very secure on it, and the mounts themselves move around somewhat.

I also don't care for them being mounted on back. When I drive down gravel roads they get completely caked with dust, which is a real pain to clean off at the trailhead. I think a roof rack would keep them cleaner, as long as you don't think the bugs are too disgusting. Also with the way it hangs out the back I sometimes have clearance problems in rough areas.

I normally use an interior rack I made myself out of 2x4s and Yakima fork locks. I only use the Saris when there are 3 of us and I need the back seats. That way the bikes remain clean and less of a theft target.
 
mswscco said:
Has anyone had problems with the spare tire getting in the way of hitch-mounted racks? I thought I read somewhere that a guy had to trim the post on his Yakima because it was hitting the spare. I've got a 2004 with the factory hitch. Thanks!

I have a Yakima and had to trim off less than 1" if I remember right. The Yakima has a "nut" welded on the inside...so instead of a plain hitch pin, you actually have a threaded pin that cinches down the rack in the reciever to minimize play in the rack. So, you can't really re-drill the holes...only other option, chop off the end. Let face it, with the weight of a fully loaded rack, an inch off the end will in no way impact the functionality of the rack....it is basically just a pain in the a$$.

I also have a Joehauler rack for my KTM 200EXC motorcycle. The bike is about 210lbs plus a rack weight of about 50lbs. This thing is very thick steel that took me forever to hacksaw off about a 1/4" from the end. What a pain Toyota if you are listening:50cal:
 
Dude said:
I can measure my Yakima and post a pic if needed...it is not much.

Nah, I guess it doesn't really matter how much had to come off as long as the rack still fits well and is stable. I've had good experience with Yakima thus far, but I'll probably swing by the local shop and try out a few brands. Thanks for all the input so far.
 
1. Rack: Buy a sportworks. RQL if mtb, and Mod series if just road bikes. I sold my Hollywood team rider for the sportworks rql, and love it. The Hollywood was nice too, but required very specific setup if swapping from road to mtb in pairs. Parts would hit each other, as the bikes were too close. The sportworks is also quicker to load. These 2 racks are by far the best. They are both expensive, but well worth it, and hold their value.
Also the team rider, you have to undo 2 pins to lower the vertical arms, which in the end, was the deciding factor for me.
You really won't know until you've used them, then realize what you are missing.

2. Hitch: Before you cut anything, try lowering your spare and pushing it more towards the front of the truck. There can be as much as 1 full inch of play. My sportworks has 3/8" gap after i did this. My motocycle carrier was still too long, so had to do the sawzall mod on it.
 
I purchased a 'Viper'(edit: not a Yakima Viper) hitch mounted rack and I am very pleased with it.

Has the swing-down feature so you can open the rear hatch. Also, the lover pivot pin is removable allowing you to keep the receiver installed without the rack.

I had no problems with the clearence to the spare.
 
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rensho said:
12. Hitch: Before you cut anything, try lowering your spare and pushing it more towards the front of the truck. There can be as much as 1 full inch of play. My sportworks has 3/8" gap after i did this. My motocycle carrier was still too long, so had to do the sawzall mod on it.

Thanks rensho,

I just purchased the Yakima SlickRoc4 and the spare tire was in the way. I did exactly what you said and sure enough, there was plently of room for the rack to slide in without touching the spare tire.

Before you think about cutting, definately lower the spare and push the spare forward!!

Glad I did not have to do the saw mod on it :dancin:

t4r.jpg


hitch.jpg


It is just touching the tire.
 
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I've always used roof racks. Then again, I've always had cars. I had to load my bike onto the roof rack for the first time yesterday and was it a hassle. First, I'm parked in a underground garage which means I have to be out before loading and unloading. Plus the roof is pretty high to work with. I get a workout before my workout. I've been looking for a hitch mount but the wobble worries me. Also, my bike costs a mint so the fear of getting tapped from behind is nerve-racking.
 
AsianPersuasion said:
I've been looking for a hitch mount but the wobble worries me..

The Thule bike racks are designed not to wobble, because the hitch lock screws in, not slide.
 
CopperX said:
While we're on the subject..

Any recommandation on Bikes?

Thanks in advance.

I did all research at many sites, but asked most if not all my questions at www.mountainbike.com

I ended up getting a Specialized HardRock. Really cool bike: it's the kind that is great for both road, city, or mountain, and depending on how you are dressed, you do not feel like a lame a$$ riding it. The last bike I rode made me feel lame.

I was going to go with Gary Fisher, but that's just too much money for someone that does not ride all the time. Me going with a Gary Fisher is like going for a Harley instead of a Honda.
 
Copper: go to http://www.mtbr.com/
If the knowledge is not on there, we're all hosed. ;):
It is that good. There are 1000s of bike reviews on there.

Asian:
The Sportwork racks bolt into the hitch. They can't sway really. I have 2 $4k bikes on there. Swaying would not be acceptable.

The Sportworks rack also swings down in order to open the hatch; key for letting my dog out.

I also considered the yakima rack that hangs the bikes by their rims, but never used one.

Roof racks on this truck would be a PITA, as mentioned above. That would suck. As well, GFs are typically not strong enough to load a mtb on them without putting many things in danger.

If you all haven't tried one of these racks, it is an eye opener. I rarely own something that i'm actually happy with to the point that i stop looking for its replacement, or try to tweek it to be better. This is one of those for me. I can count these items on 1 hand with fingers left over.
 
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Sportworks rack is the absolute best. It is rock solid and really easy getting your bikes on and off quick.
 
Good racks don't wobble - get a Thule or Yakima with a screw in hitch bolt (as opposed to just a slide in pin found on lower end racks). And supplement with extra tie down straps for the bikes. And use a really good lock too.

Of course, if you are the paranoid OCD type, then don't even think about hanging your bike back there (or at least make sure that your insurance will cover replacement cost if rear ended). I have a brand spankin new Yakima hitch rack that I have yet to use because I am the paranoid OCD type. It's not my fault though - it's all the other east coast drivers out there...

Roof racks do look cooler, I must agree. But being of the vertically challenged variety, I would need a ladder to get my bike up there, and doing that at the trail head just seems, well, I dunno, maybe a little lame. My bike goes in the inside, that's why I bought the truck in the first place. But if I could, I probably would use a roof rack.

And speaking of lame, it doesn't matter what you wear or what bike you ride - as long as you ride, then you are not lame! Nuff said.

And yes, MTBR is the fountain of knowledge (and source for somewhat-high-end-biased reviews). Definitely worth the vist, but be warned, it's habit forming.

Happy trails (or road if that is your preference)...
 
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