Options to replace rear end

Qyota

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I have a '99 limited with the OEM diff lock. I think the rear pinion bearing is toast, as it is beginning to whine and 3-week old gear lube came out pretty gray (with bits of metal on the drain plug magnet).

The truck has 160K. The entire rear axle from the diff to the brakes is pretty rusty. Should I just replace the entire thing (assuming I can find such a thing)?

What about disc brakes? Will a rear end from another Toyota with disc brakes fit? If so, what about the diff locker?

Sorry, lots of questions. Thanks for any help.
 
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I can see this isn't a very well researched problem.

More info. Yesterday I parked the truck, blocked the tires and put it in neutral. I grabbed hold of the rear drive shaft near the differential and tried to move it laterally in all directions. It didn't move at all. It rotated about 1/2 inch, but I think that's normal, right?

If the pinion bearing(s) were bad, wouldn't there be noticeable lateral movement of the drive shaft? Or, does this simply mean it's not that bad...yet?

I have an email in to ZUK for a repair estimate, but now I'm wondering if it's the diff at all. I figured the grayish diff lube coming out after 3 weeks was a giveaway that gears aren't meshing perfectly in the diff.
 
You can get new gears and then 50% off master install kit from marlin crawler this month. so new gears and bearings for about $300

My advice pull the 3rd and inspect it. If its whining it could be a ring and pinion issue too.

the 1/2 of rotational freeplay is you backlash
 
Thanks for the heads up! I might just do that. Or, I have a line on a relatively low-mileage diff from a 2000 limited. As long as it's the same gear ratio, and it has the locker, it should fit my 99 limited, right?
 
You can get new gears and then 50% off master install kit from marlin crawler this month. so new gears and bearings for about $300

My advice pull the 3rd and inspect it. If its whining it could be a ring and pinion issue too.

the 1/2 of rotational freeplay is you backlash

Is 1/2 inch too much backlash? Can I learn anything from the amount of rotational free play?
 
Pricing things out...I could get my diff overhauled (new master kit and new R&P) by ZUK for about $700 total. There isn't anyone around here (Madison, WI) that I'd trust to do the work...maybe I'm just paranoid.

OR, I could by an entire used rear axle from a no-salt state complete from the brakes to the flange for about $900 (shipping included), then sell my old stuff in parts. The one I'm looking at is off a 2000, and has 85K on it...or half what mine has.

This, to me, sounds like a better deal. Comments?
 
Pricing things out...I could get my diff overhauled (new master kit and new R&P) by ZUK for about $700 total. There isn't anyone around here (Madison, WI) that I'd trust to do the work...maybe I'm just paranoid.

OR, I could by an entire used rear axle from a no-salt state complete from the brakes to the flange for about $900 (shipping included), then sell my old stuff in parts. The one I'm looking at is off a 2000, and has 85K on it...or half what mine has.

This, to me, sounds like a better deal. Comments?

I'd definitely grab the entire axle from a southern vehicle, then sell your old stuff.
 
Pricing things out...I could get my diff overhauled (new master kit and new R&P) by ZUK for about $700 total. There isn't anyone around here (Madison, WI) that I'd trust to do the work...maybe I'm just paranoid.

OR, I could by an entire used rear axle from a no-salt state complete from the brakes to the flange for about $900 (shipping included), then sell my old stuff in parts. The one I'm looking at is off a 2000, and has 85K on it...or half what mine has.

This, to me, sounds like a better deal. Comments?

Look at eastcoastgearsupply.com I think toyota v6 3rds are $550 plus you old one for a core with brand new bearings and gears. Best part they ship it to your door for free, you pull yours stick it in the box and send it
back.


EDIT i see you have an elocker. ecgs has elockers for $595 in almost any gear available. Keep in mind this will not have the motor and you take yours off and put it on this one http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-131078-tacoma-e-locker-3rd.html
 
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Are the 2 re-gear prices (from ZUK and ECGS) including shipping? If not, then I'd say go for the entire axle, sounds like you may be nearing pinholes in your diff cover plate.

I disagree with not going used. I have seen enough people post about shops screwing up their diff setup, that unless it was being setup by someone good like ZUK or ECGS, I would rather go with the stock setup. I have even seen posts about ECGS screwing up a setup, so it makes me nervous...
 
Are the 2 re-gear prices (from ZUK and ECGS) including shipping? If not, then I'd say go for the entire axle, sounds like you may be nearing pinholes in your diff cover plate.

I disagree with not going used. I have seen enough people post about shops screwing up their diff setup, that unless it was being setup by someone good like ZUK or ECGS, I would rather go with the stock setup. I have even seen posts about ECGS screwing up a setup, so it makes me nervous...

Who cares if ecgs screws up since they warranty their work for 5 years. and yeah its 595 with shipping to you, but you get to ship your core back. You get a discount if you buy the return label through them I believe its about $35 bucks

Look some gears will fail no matter how good the setup is. I wouldnt worry about it. They stand behind their work. most places will have no warranty on gear setups and 5 yr is pretty good.

The cheapest option is to do it your self. The setup on this diff isnt that hard.
 
Who cares if ecgs screws up since they warranty their work for 5 years. and yeah its 595 with shipping to you, but you get to ship your core back. You get a discount if you buy the return label through them I believe its about $35 bucks

Look some gears will fail no matter how good the setup is. I wouldnt worry about it. They stand behind their work. most places will have no warranty on gear setups and 5 yr is pretty good.

The cheapest option is to do it your self. The setup on this diff isnt that hard.

If you make a warranty claim, will you have to pay for shipping back? Not trying to insult; I may need this in the future too, so I am just curious. ECGS has seemed like the best place I have heard of, other than maybe ZUK, who I didn't realize was still doing freelance diff work.

$35 isn't bad at all considering how freaking heavy the diffs are. I was thinking it'd be more like $100.
 
If you make a warranty claim, will you have to pay for shipping back? Not trying to insult; I may need this in the future too, so I am just curious. ECGS has seemed like the best place I have heard of, other than maybe ZUK, who I didn't realize was still doing freelance diff work.

$35 isn't bad at all considering how freaking heavy the diffs are. I was thinking it'd be more like $100.

Im assuming not, and that none of you even have to find out. Ecgs sponsors ttora so a bunch of members over there use them. Im gonna buy my front diff from them the rear ill do myself, Good luck. From what i have seen ecgs know their stuff! there has been a few things i have seen that have impressed me.
 
It's a good option for sure. Thanks for bringing it up. I don't NEED the whole donor axle assembly, I was just thinking "why not?"...if it's relatively rust free, it'll be in better shape than what's on there. Then I can sell parts off it, if anyone wants them.

Nelson, the ~$700 for ZUK includes shipping. About $60 each way. New master kit and new R&P. So, the ECGS deal does sound a little better. Probably faster turnaround too.
 
Here's a picture of it (not great). It's the axle on the end of the top bunk. Looks pretty good to me. Not sure how long it's been sitting out like that, or if rain has been collecting in unusual areas.
 

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Leaning towards the complete axle at this time...and here's why:

Positives:

+ 85K brakes may be OK for a while...my current rear brakes are shot.
+ 85K wheel bearings and axle seals...vs. my 161K stuff.
+ Appears to be a lot less rust on this thing, so after a good cleaning and repainting, it should last a long time.

Negatives:

- I don't know the history. Brakes might be bad, bearings might be bad, diff lube may never have been changed. Although, photos of the wrecked vehicle show it was in pretty good shape (pretty clean inside).
- May not be the right gear ratio, although they have said it's 4.30.
- May not have ABS. Can anyone tell if it has ABS from the picture?

Those last two things are just my paranoia on how good the salvage yard knows their parts.

I'm about to plunk down the $725 + $200 freight on this thing, so I'm a little hesitant! :-)
 

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