I have been polishing my paint and I noticed orange peel on the driver side rear of the vehicle. I have posted some picks on autogeek.net forum and everyone agrees it is definately the orange peel affect. Is anyone having this trouble with black or anyother color? I have read that the 07-08 tundra's are having a lot of paint problems.
Orange Peel 2004 black ltd
- Thread starter lempilot
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
orange peel effect exists when the paint surface doesn't appear to be smooth under direct sunlight or halogen lighting. The next time the sun is shining on the truck look to see if the surface has bumps on it like an orange. It also diminishes the shine to a degree. It is fixable, however, it requies wet sanding, compounding, and polishing. I have been told by the experts at autogeek.net that is time consuming and expensive. Orange peel effect is not a paint failure and can be cured.
Wikipedia defines it as:
Orange peel is a certain kind of finish that may develop on painted surfaces and cast surfaces.[1] The texture resembles the bumpy surface of the skin of an orange (fruit) hence the name.
Gloss paint sprayed on a smooth surface (such as the body of a car) should also dry into a smooth surface. However, various factors can cause it to dry into a bumpy surface resembling the texture of an orange peel. The orange peel phenomenon can then be smoothed out with ultra-fine sandpaper, but it can be prevented altogether by changing the painting technique or the materials used. Orange peel is typically the result of improper painting technique, and is caused by the quick evaporation of thinner, incorrect spray gun setup (e.g., low air pressure or incorrect nozzle), spraying the paint at an angle other than perpendicular, or applying excessive paint.
In some situations, such as interior house paint, the orange peel texture is generally desirable. In this case, a texture paint is generally applied with a spray gun. The texture is then painted over with the appropriate color. When painting walls, orange peel can also develop by using a roller with too little paint or too thick a paint and the surface dries before the texture can level.
Wikipedia defines it as:
Orange peel is a certain kind of finish that may develop on painted surfaces and cast surfaces.[1] The texture resembles the bumpy surface of the skin of an orange (fruit) hence the name.
Gloss paint sprayed on a smooth surface (such as the body of a car) should also dry into a smooth surface. However, various factors can cause it to dry into a bumpy surface resembling the texture of an orange peel. The orange peel phenomenon can then be smoothed out with ultra-fine sandpaper, but it can be prevented altogether by changing the painting technique or the materials used. Orange peel is typically the result of improper painting technique, and is caused by the quick evaporation of thinner, incorrect spray gun setup (e.g., low air pressure or incorrect nozzle), spraying the paint at an angle other than perpendicular, or applying excessive paint.
In some situations, such as interior house paint, the orange peel texture is generally desirable. In this case, a texture paint is generally applied with a spray gun. The texture is then painted over with the appropriate color. When painting walls, orange peel can also develop by using a roller with too little paint or too thick a paint and the surface dries before the texture can level.
tkr128
New member
You're going to have orange peel with almost any paint these days. Mine has some, but it's on par with most other manufacturers. It's definitely better than some of the GM products I've seen.
For me, I'm willing to live with it. Having to wetsand means a higher chance of clearcoat failure in the future and it's not all that noticeable unless you're looking for it.
For me, I'm willing to live with it. Having to wetsand means a higher chance of clearcoat failure in the future and it's not all that noticeable unless you're looking for it.
My waxing polish regime is the following.
Once a year I polish/jewel the paint. It takes out 99% of all swirls, spiderwebbing, and light scratches. It will not take out scratches that you can feel when you rub your fingernail over it.
I polish as follows:
Porter Cable 7424 obm with Lake Country CSS orange, white, green, black, and blue pads. I use Manzerna 91E intense polish, followed by Manzerna 85R finishing polish, and then Klasse All in one, then Klasse Sealant, and then Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba Was-for depth of shine. I
Every three months I reapply Klasse AIO, Sealant and Souveran. I wash it once a week starting with a foam gun then two bucket method. I dry with a leaf blower or California water blade followed by a Cobra Guzzler Microfiber towel and finish with Meguiar's or Pinnacle detailing spray.
I have to agree that wet sanding is for the collector or ocd individual. My truck shines and my girlfriend thinks I am crazy when she watches me take care of it. However, we should take care of things or at least that is what I was taught as a child.
It is a shame that we pay $40k for a vehicle and the paint job is sub-par. All they have to do is spend just a little time making sure they paint is smooth.
Once a year I polish/jewel the paint. It takes out 99% of all swirls, spiderwebbing, and light scratches. It will not take out scratches that you can feel when you rub your fingernail over it.
I polish as follows:
Porter Cable 7424 obm with Lake Country CSS orange, white, green, black, and blue pads. I use Manzerna 91E intense polish, followed by Manzerna 85R finishing polish, and then Klasse All in one, then Klasse Sealant, and then Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba Was-for depth of shine. I
Every three months I reapply Klasse AIO, Sealant and Souveran. I wash it once a week starting with a foam gun then two bucket method. I dry with a leaf blower or California water blade followed by a Cobra Guzzler Microfiber towel and finish with Meguiar's or Pinnacle detailing spray.
I have to agree that wet sanding is for the collector or ocd individual. My truck shines and my girlfriend thinks I am crazy when she watches me take care of it. However, we should take care of things or at least that is what I was taught as a child.
It is a shame that we pay $40k for a vehicle and the paint job is sub-par. All they have to do is spend just a little time making sure they paint is smooth.
rook
New member
lempilot said:
Orange peel is not quite as simple a phenomenon as wiki describes. High solid paints are more difficult to obtain a smooth finish because there is less voc
(volatile organic content) than in the past. Basically, your finish looks the way it does in order to reduce the amount of harmful solvents being introduced into the atmosphere. High solid paints do not flow and level out like paints in the past. Take a look at an old hot rod done in lacquer, it was painted with 50% solvent, sanded and re-coated then sanded and buffed to a glassy finish.
As long as it is uniform on the whole vehicle, the peel should not be too much of a concern, as it will only be apparent in certain lighting conditions.
I have seen GM vehicles with good paint jobs and Mercedes with noticeable peel. Variables, such as temperature, humidity, airflow in the spray booth, nozzle settings and many other factors all contribute to paint texture. Paint co.'s work w/manufacturers on a regular basis to ensure the paint is dialed in.
There is little the average owner can or should do to rectify orange peel. Wet sanding is too risky on factory paint. Oem clears are good, but they put on "just enough" to get coverage and gloss. Messing around with sandpaper can cause FLA (fat lady's ass) where the peel is sanded down to a texture resembling exactly that.
If your rear quarter is radically different from the surrounding panels, you may have a panel that was refinished. If you are not happy with it, have the dealer or an independent body shop look at the panel. It may have been painted at the port of entry. On occasion, vehicles are damaged when they make the trip across the ocean, go figure! You may be able to get the panel re-touched.
I painted some cladding and a door and was able to match the texture very well. Any qualified shop will be able to do the same.
Uneek
Super Moderator
rook said:
It happens more often than the dealer is willing to admit. My Camry had it's rear bumper scuffed by someone who doesn't know how to get out of a 90* parking spot. Took it to a body shop and detailer for estimates, and both said, the bumper had been refinished--but whoever did it, done a darn good job and left very little clues that it was refinished.
I had the dealer put in it writing that two professional independent shops state the bumper was refinished and though the dealer claims they are not aware of it. If in fact the bumper is refinished should any problems arise with the finish Toyota will be covering the finish not a body shop since it was delivered as such.
