Orange Spots (rail dust?)

dryfly

New member
Hello All,

New to this forum and new to 4Runners. Purchased a 2000 SR5 a couple weeks ago. I had been looking for a couple months to find one with low miles and was very clean. Found a sweet white Runner that was very clean a couple weeks ago. After first wash I noticed all these pen head size dots in the paint that I feared was rust and my heart sunk. You can't see them unless you are right up on the rig. After searching this forum I realized it could be rail dust or some other residue and that clay bar would get it out. Never used a clay bar before so I picked up a Mothers Clay Bar kit and went to work. At first I was scared as the spots weren't coming off but then figured out that I needed to use a bit more pressure than I thought a would. The good news is that those dang spots do come off. Bad news is that it took me 45 minutes to do just one door. A little OCD I guess but I want this rig to last!

Anyway, I wanted to say thanks to all who post as I learned (and will learn) a great deal. I also am attaching a pic of the spots as I hadn't seen one posted before.

Again, Thanks!
 

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It will take a lot of time depending on the severity of the contaminants. But the end result and how smooth the paint feels will be worth the hard work.

With that said, get to work. :jk:
 
Clay bar

Try using Adams clay bar from Adams polishes. I used this at least 2x per year on my cars and it leaves them like new. I've tried Mothers clay bar before and found that it took twice as much effort to work with that clay bar and the results were not the same as Adams. Sure its a bit more expensive, but worth the money.
 
I found a possible solution to your problem, from Aurazine.com I found something that gets rid of crap like that. I even found some videos on YouTube supporting this products claims. Only problem I've only noticed is that the dealers are in Europe.


CarPro Iron X (AQuartz) - car paint, wheels and glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including painted aluminium and alloys). Automotive paint is porous, by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away.

This is a one-step, highly effective vehicle paint decontamination, beyond what can be removed by washing or claying, with the cleaning power of an acid with a pH of 7.0, by using a neutralised acid salt

Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, it contains neutralised acid salt that effectively dissolve the sintered brake dust particles by forming a water soluble complex that can be rinsed away. Do not allow solution to dry on paint surface. The smell is similar to ammonium thioglycolate (its main chemical component) formulated in permanent wave lotion

It is really interesting to see the amount of iron particles residue that will be dissolved by Iron X, despite having clayed the car before hand. This product definitely offers advancement in paintwork decontamination
 
Try using Adams clay bar from Adams polishes. I used this at least 2x per year on my cars and it leaves them like new. I've tried Mothers clay bar before and found that it took twice as much effort to work with that clay bar and the results were not the same as Adams. Sure its a bit more expensive, but worth the money.

Thanks. I will look into that. My rig also has some pretty severe water spots, mainly on the hood and front panels, and the Mothers Bar has to be worked pretty hard to get them off. Any ideas of getting harsh water spots off?
 
Thanks. I will look into that. My rig also has some pretty severe water spots, mainly on the hood and front panels, and the Mothers Bar has to be worked pretty hard to get them off. Any ideas of getting harsh water spots off?

I just used a Porter Cable DA buffer on my truck this weekend (first time ever) and I found that it took all waterspots off my truck.
 
Iron Removal Spray

super old thread but thought I'd also chime in for anyone like me trying for the first time to figure out how to get rid of rail dust.

i work near a train track and I've been super frustrated dealing with a crappy rail dust issue on my new-to-me 2016 white 4R and was getting really discouraged with the general 2-4hr claybar treatment process. I never saw rail dust on my black jeep but its shows up on the white 4R big time. Everything I saw was basically about committing to a 2-4hr clay bar treatment process which i was getting really discouraged about ... but while researching I noticed that Adams Polishes came out with a spray on Iron Removal product just a few weeks ago (April 2018) that is made exactly to combat the rail dust issue for those of us that live or work in a more industrial area. Im gonna buy a bottle and try it out... probably will have to follow up with their clay bar and/or clay glove as well if the spray doesnt get most of it off.

here's Adam's demo video of the Iron Removal spray

i have no affiliation with Adams, im not sponsored by them or anything, its a coincidence my post is coming right on the heels of their new product release.
 

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