Ordered black stone oil analysis

[kolelt]

I ordered http://m.blackstone-labs.com oil analysis. The kit is free. You just pay for them to actually do the test. My engine is a JDM. I don't know exactly how many miles it has. But ever since I got the motor. I always change the oil every 3k. Recently switched to castrol synthetic. Toyota red coolant. OEM spark plugs, NGK wires, and OEM air filter. I baby my motor. As in always clean it, change fluids all nine yards. My only concern is that my coolant reservoir goes low after a long period of time. How ever the radiator is always to the top. There are no codes no misfires no white smoke nothing. Basically nothing that indicates that it would be a head gasket. Honestly I'm not even worried about the coolant reservoir. I noticed I want the only one with this issue on this forum. When the engine is hot. The coolant will read full. When cool it will be below full. Anyways..... I'm scared to do the test and find out some unknown issues lol.

Long story short. My truck runs perfectly smooth. No cooling issues, all fluids stay where they need to be. No codes.

Good video of the test explained.

https://youtu.be/oIG_BdsffcU

 

[shahsmerdis]

post a picture of your lab results?

 

[T4R2014]

Your point? You ordered the test so that you could worry more? If it's going to blow a head gasket then that's life. No point in stressing when the test comes back with the analysis stating that they found a 0.0000000000000000000000000000000069% trace of coolant in the oil. These tests are cool for figuring out how long you can stretch an oil interval, but if you're just getting it to realize that you're driving around in a ticking time bomb that will explode ten years from now then it's just a waste of money.

 

[StreetCreeper]

...I noticed I want the only one with this issue on this forum. When the engine is hot. The coolant will read full. When cool it will be below full.

Wait, isn't that what the reservoir is for? I'm pretty sure what your describing is normal since the coolant expands with heat and will push over into the reservoir — then get sucked back into the radiator after it cools down. So if you're adding coolant to the reservoir when it's cold — it's just going push it all out once your coolant heats up again as you are driving. Idk — I'm super baked right now.

 

[kolelt]

Wait, isn't that what the reservoir is for? I'm pretty sure what your describing is normal since the coolant expands with heat and will push over into the reservoir — then get sucked back into the radiator after it cools down. So if you're adding coolant to the reservoir when it's cold — it's just going push it all out once your coolant heats up again as you are driving. Idk — I'm super baked right now.

I think you are right. And no. I do not think at all that I am driving a ticking bomb. I just tend to over analyze things. [MENTION=71030]T4R2014[/MENTION] you probably are right sir. No point in simply worrying about it.

 

[TheDurk]

. Honestly I'm not even worried about the coolant reservoir. I noticed I want the only one with this issue on this forum. When the engine is hot. The coolant will read full. When cool it will be below full. ]

You're doing it wrong. Check coolant when cold, as per your owner's manual, anf fill to FULL line. Then when it gets hot, it will be more than full, which is why there is lots of reservoir above the FULL line. It's supposed to do that. Then ignore it until it gets to LOW when cold, and then fill it back to full again. This should take a VERY long time...like over a year.

Nothing wrong with getting a baseline lab run from Blackstone. I do one every two years. It's absolutely true I can't do much about most trouble indicators, but it helps in making decisions regarding motor maintenance. Not gonna replace heads for a coolant into oil issue if major lead in the oil says the bottom is about to fall apart, too.

PS. 3K changes with Dino are overkill in 2017, even on a '99 or whatever. 3K changes with synthetic is ridiculous. Blackstone can help you realize that. Get the TBN option.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Idk — I'm super baked right now.

:wtf: Not possible. The girl scouts in your neighborhood must love coming to your door....

The OP can change his oil whenever to his liking but as other have said Blackstone will tell him to go much further. Make sure to get the TBN result.

 

[kolelt]

You're doing it wrong. Check coolant when cold, as per your owner's manual, anf fill to FULL line. Then when it gets hot, it will be more than full, which is why there is lots of reservoir above the FULL line. It's supposed to do that. Then ignore it until it gets to LOW when cold, and then fill it back to full again. This should take a VERY long time...like over a year.

Nothing wrong with getting a baseline lab run from Blackstone. I do one every two years. It's absolutely true I can't do much about most trouble indicators, but it helps in making decisions regarding motor maintenance. Not gonna replace heads for a coolant into oil issue if major lead in the oil says the bottom is about to fall apart, too.

PS. 3K changes with Dino are overkill in 2017, even on a '99 or whatever. 3K changes with synthetic is ridiculous. Blackstone can help you realize that. Get the TBN option.

Well I can tell you mine has went down below the FULL line in less then a year. How ever, when we put the motor in a while back. We did a compression test. Which was good. Pressure test which was also good.

What I am trying to say. Is I have no idea why it's like that. And even though my truck runs perfectly. A part of me doesn't want to get the oil a analysis afraid to find something. Or simply feel better that they won't find anything.

 

[MStudt]

Well I can tell you mine has went down below the FULL line in less then a year. How ever, when we put the motor in a while back. We did a compression test. Which was good. Pressure test which was also good.

What I am trying to say. Is I have no idea why it's like that. And even though my truck runs perfectly. A part of me doesn't want to get the oil a analysis afraid to find something. Or simply feel better that they won't find anything.

I hate to be the negative one here, but your coolant is going somewhere. I've only had to add coolant to mine once in the last four years, and that was the day I change my reservoir.

 

[LIVEVIL]

your point?

thank you

 

[kolelt]

I hate to be the negative one here, but your coolant is going somewhere. I've only had to add coolant to mine once in the last four years, and that was the day I change my reservoir.

I apologize to anyone who feels like this post is useless. Just wanted to discuss this idea.
[MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] , radiator pressure test was good. Cylinder pressure test was good. Any idea where else to look ?

I have my JDM motor in my truck for 3-4 years. When the engine went into the truck. The reservoir was filled to FULL LINE. maybe 2 years after it was basically empty

 

[LittleCaesar]

Use a block test (found at NAPA or the like) to test for a bad HG. Usually works well.
Block Testerâ„¢ - Test for a Blown Head Gasket with the Original Combustion Leak Tester by Test Tools

If the block test is good, then start checking all the hose connections. It may be where the coolant is leaking out but evaporating before seeing any evidence of coolant loss. I'd start at the firewall and make my way forward.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Honestly I'm not even worried about the coolant reservoir. Anyways..... I'm scared to do the test and find out some unknown issue.

I'm still stuck. Here to be. Honest.
That's a really cool test though. I've heard of it plenty of times, but never seen a video or pictures of the results. Too bad the test won't show the little split in the bottom of your reservoir, where your coolant is just barely seeping out. [emoji23][emoji6]

 

[MStudt]

I apologize to anyone who feels like this post is useless. Just wanted to discuss this idea.

[MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] , radiator pressure test was good. Cylinder pressure test was good. Any idea where else to look ?

If there's no visible leak then it's internal. You can pick up a block test kit to know for sure. It uses a chemical that'll change from blue to yellow if there's a leak.

 

[kolelt]

So long story short. No matter what your coolant reservoir tank should never go empty ?

It just leaves me clueless because all tests weee good. The radiator is always full. Heat works. Oil is clean, no white smoke. And no misfires. And the coolant doesn't go low like every day. It's like after a year it will be low

 

[Justin727]

Did you properly burp the cooling system when you filled it back up with coolant?

 

[kolelt]

Did you properly burp the cooling system when you filled it back up with coolant?

I believe so. It's been like 3 years..... I'm going to go to the shop now and see if I can find a cylinder pressure test, radiator test. Do those test then do what Mstudt suggested. If everything passes. Then I'll probably shoot my self in the foot.

Again, I apologize for anyone who I waisted their time on this thread. And thanks you for your help.

 

[JZiggy]

Probably just a slow leak at a coolant hose joint somewhere.

If you're going to do a Blackstone oil analysis then I'm sure you've been reading on bobistheoilguy.com Many of the folks over there are good at interpreting analysis reports.

Keep in mind if your report comes back inconclusive, ie, "there *may* by coolant contamination in your oil," then either A) don't sweat it or B) run another test or two to look for a trend.

 

[Scramble]

Use a block test (found at NAPA or the like) to test for a bad HG. Usually works well.
Block Testerâ„¢ - Test for a Blown Head Gasket with the Original Combustion Leak Tester by Test Tools

If the block test is good, then start checking all the hose connections. It may be where the coolant is leaking out but evaporating before seeing any evidence of coolant loss. I'd start at the firewall and make my way forward.

THis, check all of your hoses. You could have an old, dried & cracked hose somewhere. I had one by my oil cooler. It was a tiny drip barely noticeable.
No coolant in the driveway. Only a minor drip when hot.

 

[gamefreakgc]

You're doing it wrong. Check coolant when cold, as per your owner's manual, anf fill to FULL line. Then when it gets hot, it will be more than full, which is why there is lots of reservoir above the FULL line. It's supposed to do that. Then ignore it until it gets to LOW when cold, and then fill it back to full again. This should take a VERY long time...like over a year.

Nothing wrong with getting a baseline lab run from Blackstone. I do one every two years. It's absolutely true I can't do much about most trouble indicators, but it helps in making decisions regarding motor maintenance. Not gonna replace heads for a coolant into oil issue if major lead in the oil says the bottom is about to fall apart, too.

PS. 3K changes with Dino are overkill in 2017, even on a '99 or whatever. 3K changes with synthetic is ridiculous. Blackstone can help you realize that. Get the TBN option.

Durk's got it right as usual. This is a normal process of fluids expanding when hot, that's simple science. If you've recently done work on the coolant system, give it a few weeks to settle down. It will naturally expel air into the coolant reservoir through the cap, which will make your coolant level in there go down. Don't fret about it. If your head gasket is leaking you'll know, trust me there's no denying it when it happens!

The Owner's Manual you've got shows to only replace every 5,000 miles with dino oil. I'm not sure if synthetic was widely available in the late 90's, but it goes much longer. I'm over 10k miles on my synthetic right now but it's about due for a change, I run AMSOIL's high-performance oil since it's made for boosted engines and has a 15k mile change interval.

P.S. Oreilly's will let you rent a pressure tester for free for the coolant system, Autozone does I think as well. Save a few bucks for something you'd only use once.