Out goes the 2.5" Spacers in goes OME 2885 /2895E

Nachies

New member
I just picked up a package from Will-call @ ARB in Renton, WA.

2885 Fronts Springs
2895E Rears Springs
90010 Front Struts
60080 Rears Shocks


Since I was in the market for a new lift I could not pass up a great deal from an old friend of mine at NorthRidge4x4. Thanks Dave.

$720 and I was able it up on my lunch break.

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Ok, here is the deal. I really disliked how my factory suspension and the Daystar leveling lift rode and handled. The 4runner was sloppy and unpredictable under hard braking, it just feel unsafe. I felt safer my 5” lifted Jeep TJ with my 35’s and no sway bars. I know at having my front factory bumper damaged I will be replacing it with something a little more solid. In addition, my wife and I have been looking towing a small camper trailer (R-pod). So it was time for a upgrade.

Here’s my write up of the swap. I know there is many out there, but this one is mine.


Front Strut

Step 1:

Block rear tire so the vehicle does not roll. (I used a big Rock)
Remove center cap of the wheel (Slot head screwdriver or pry bar).

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/0_zps59c68cab.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/0_zps59c68cab.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 0_zps59c68cab.jpg"/></a>


Step 2:
Loosen lug nuts on front wheels, do not remove them!!!! (Tire iron or 21MM deep socket).
Simply loosen them by turning the wrench to the left (counter-clockwise)
Jack up the vehicle and place jack stands under vehicle. Different car models may have different places to put the jack.

Now after the front has been lift 6” or so off the ground, Remove Tire and up the lug nuts a side.

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/1_zpsa9b49d69.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/1_zpsa9b49d69.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 1_zpsa9b49d69.jpg"/></a>
 
Step 3:

With the jack stands under the frame you can remove the jack and slide it under the lower control arm. Apply a little pressure to the control by jacking up the jack.

Remove 3 (17mm) Nuts from Top plate strut mount
In this picture, you can see my Daystar Spacers, I will not be reusing them.

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/2_zps97e8a58d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/2_zps97e8a58d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2_zps97e8a58d.jpg"/></a>


Step 4:
Remove Sway Bar from Steering Knuckle. (17mm)
If the bolt turns as you are losing the nut, you can insert a 6mm Allen wrench in this location to keep the sway bar stud from turning.

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/4_zps2a153eca.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/4_zps2a153eca.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 4_zps2a153eca.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/3_zps058c9a6b.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/3_zps058c9a6b.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 3_zps058c9a6b.jpg"/></a>
 
Step 5:
Remove Bolts that hold your ABS sensor to you knuckle. (8mm, 10mm, 12mm)
This gives room for you knuckle to move so your lines do not break

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/6_zpsdc3c96fb.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/6_zpsdc3c96fb.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 6_zpsdc3c96fb.jpg"/></a>


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Step 6:
Remove Cotter Pin and Top Knuckle Bolt (19mm)

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/7_zps06180426.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/7_zps06180426.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 7_zps06180426.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/8_zps033f5318.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/8_zps033f5318.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 8_zps033f5318.jpg"/></a>
 
Step 7:
Remove Lower Strut Bolt (19mm)

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/10_zpsf911d37c.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/10_zpsf911d37c.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 10_zpsf911d37c.jpg"/></a>




Step 8:
Remove Sway Bar from the frame on both sides. This makes it easy to remove Strut (14mm)

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/11_zps5f2cca8e.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/11_zps5f2cca8e.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 11_zps5f2cca8e.jpg"/></a>

Step 9:
I used a wire to keep my knuckle from falling and ripping the brake lines.

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/9_zps84cd8f29.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/9_zps84cd8f29.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 9_zps84cd8f29.jpg"/></a>

Step 10:
Removed Strut, Spacer if you have one and its Stud extensions.

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/12_zps28ec8a38.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/12_zps28ec8a38.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 12_zps28ec8a38.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/13_zps352afcc6.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/13_zps352afcc6.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 13_zps352afcc6.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/14_zps445f6d93.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/14_zps445f6d93.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 14_zps445f6d93.jpg"/></a>
 
Step 11:
Dismantle Stock Strut using Spring Compressor and install new spring and stock Strut Top Plate.

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/15_zps25faa3bc.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/15_zps25faa3bc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 15_zps25faa3bc.jpg"/></a>

Repeat steps 11-1 for installations.

I forgot to take pictures of this step and this installation. However, after I did one side I soon found out that the opposite side spring was bad and the compressor did not fit between the stock springs. Therefore, I gave Midas a call and they disassembled and re-assembled my strut for $30 dollars. (Save yourself, time and money take your strut here for assembly)
 
Rear Springs and Shocks

Step 1:

Block rear tire so the vehicle does not roll.
Remove center cap of the wheel (Slot head screwdriver or pry bar).

Step 2:
Loosen lug nuts on front wheels (tire iron or 21MM deep socket).
Jack up the vehicle and place jack stands under vehicle.
Remove Tire

Step 3:
Remove top shock nut (17mm)
<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/16_zps0e07f14b.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/16_zps0e07f14b.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 16_zps0e07f14b.jpg"/></a>


Step 4:
Remove Sway Bar Link Nut (14mm)
<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/17_zps371d9837.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/17_zps371d9837.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 17_zps371d9837.jpg"/></a>
 
Step 5:
Remove Brake Line Brake Nut (12mm)
<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/18_zps74a6d59f.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/18_zps74a6d59f.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 18_zps74a6d59f.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/19_zps86a85abf.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/19_zps86a85abf.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 19_zps86a85abf.jpg"/></a>

Step 6:
Remove Lower Shock Nut (17mm)
<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/20_zps1ada458e.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/20_zps1ada458e.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20_zps1ada458e.jpg"/></a>

Step 7:
Use Pray Bar to remove Lower Shock of its mounts and remove the shock
<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/21_zps07399fd9.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/21_zps07399fd9.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 21_zps07399fd9.jpg"/></a>
 
Step 8:
Remove Track Bar Bolt to get the axle to drop as far down as it can to get enough room to remove the springs. (19mm)

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/22_zpse7a40092.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/22_zpse7a40092.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 22_zpse7a40092.jpg"/></a>

Step 9:
There an ABS wire clipped on to the Track Bar Bracket that needs to be removed in order to lift the track bar out of its location. (Needle nose pliers)

Step 10:
Pull the springs out of the location including the Bump Stop. (Pry Bar maybe required)

Step 11: Install in reverse order (Steps 10 though Step 1).

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/24_zpsb43b4838.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/24_zpsb43b4838.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 24_zpsb43b4838.jpg"/></a>

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Step12: To install try bar you may have to use a Ratchet strap like shown in the picture.

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/31_zpse0974de9.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/31_zpse0974de9.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 31_zpse0974de9.jpg"/></a>


Step 13: Install the ABS clip/wire back into the track bar bracket.


Here is the after Picture with 265 BFG’s. I ran out of time so I wasn’t able to get measurements and more pictures. There is only 20 miles on the truck since the OME lift. My first impressions? It seems safer to drive. There is a noticeable improvement in the way it handles even without an alignment. It’s not floating anymore. It is firmer and has less body roll. You can feel the small bumps in the road, however, I think once the springs settle in it’ll be less noticeable.

285's and alignment this afternoon. I hope.




<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/32_zps65b07839.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/32_zps65b07839.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 32_zps65b07839.jpg"/></a>
 
Last edited:
Here is the after Picture with 265 BFG’s. I ran out of time so I wasn’t able to get measurements and more pictures. There is only 20 miles on the truck since the OME lift. My first impressions? It seems safer to drive. There is a noticeable improvement in the way it handles even without an alignment. It’s not floating anymore. It is firmer and has less body roll. You can feel the small bumps in the road, however, I think once the springs settle in it’ll be less noticeable.

285's and alignment this afternoon. I hope.

<a href="http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jasonjoy2/media/32_zps65b07839.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b596/jasonjoy2/32_zps65b07839.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 32_zps65b07839.jpg"/></a>


Getting bfg 285's? Let me know how the alignment goes without new UCAs - I'll be doing my ome kit soon.
 
looks good. I highly recommend dealing with Dave at Northridge. good guy and has seen waaay to much of my money comes his way lol
 
looks good. I highly recommend dealing with Dave at Northridge. good guy and has seen waaay to much of my money comes his way lol

Dave and I go back along long ways. I believe I was one of his first customers.

Great guy and excellent customer service. Prices are out standing.
 
Hi can you tell me if you had to worry about driveline, cv bolts or shaft , drop transfer case with this set up? I'm trying to research. Im replacing the xreas system in my 2003 4 runner v8 sport and got the billstein 5100s and the ome 2895 and 2885 but after reading some things, am worried about the above. Do you know? thanks, Becky
 

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