I was driving on the way to Anza Borrego for a weekend of camping just coming off a fresh install of new LCA bushings and ITRE and OTRE. The truck was feeling awesome now! While on the fwy, stuck in traffic, my car dies. I was able to start it after 2 tries and giving it gas. I got off the freeway and pulled out my OBDII reader and pulled codes.
p0101
p0102
Did some googling from the side of the road and read a few posts on here from peeps that had a similar issue. I was able to drive home but could not go above 3k RPM.
Did some more reading at home and decided to go to Autozone to get some MAF cleaner and a new MAF. I was banking on one of those solutions working. I cleaned the MAF at home, reset the ECU and then went for a drive. Stalled again after a few miles. From the side of the road I pulled out the old MAF and put in the new MAF, reset the ECU and off I went. I was able to drive further than I did previously. Seemed like that did the trick. But now I have a cheapie Duralast MAF. Anyone have issues with non OEM MAFs?
My 4r does seem to drive differently now. The throttle response is different, it slows down faster when coasting and when moving at idle speed, it seems to not go as fast or has a harder time moving the 4r at idle. Also, I swear sometimes when I'm coasting at low speed making a right turn and then hit the gas, it doesn't respond right away or almost hesitates to accelerate for a split second and then goes...
You think I should pull the Duralast MAF and put an OEM one in?
At least the Duralast MAF allowed me to go camping in Anza for the weekend. It was beautiful out there.
My 4r is hiding behind the white 5th Gen
p0101
p0102
Did some googling from the side of the road and read a few posts on here from peeps that had a similar issue. I was able to drive home but could not go above 3k RPM.
Did some more reading at home and decided to go to Autozone to get some MAF cleaner and a new MAF. I was banking on one of those solutions working. I cleaned the MAF at home, reset the ECU and then went for a drive. Stalled again after a few miles. From the side of the road I pulled out the old MAF and put in the new MAF, reset the ECU and off I went. I was able to drive further than I did previously. Seemed like that did the trick. But now I have a cheapie Duralast MAF. Anyone have issues with non OEM MAFs?
My 4r does seem to drive differently now. The throttle response is different, it slows down faster when coasting and when moving at idle speed, it seems to not go as fast or has a harder time moving the 4r at idle. Also, I swear sometimes when I'm coasting at low speed making a right turn and then hit the gas, it doesn't respond right away or almost hesitates to accelerate for a split second and then goes...
You think I should pull the Duralast MAF and put an OEM one in?
At least the Duralast MAF allowed me to go camping in Anza for the weekend. It was beautiful out there.
My 4r is hiding behind the white 5th Gen
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