P0325 & P0330 Diagnosis

[4Runner-Dan]

Hey guys.

Recently I got my truck up and running after having a full rebuild done. I have been chasing a "check engine" light recently and I am throughly stumped. The first light was the P0325-knock snesor "bank 2". Bought a new harness along with the sensor and replaced them. Turns out I had pinched the harness during my inital reassembly. Put everything back together and fire it up. The light is still on and comes back for P0330-knock sensor "bank 1". :Insert rage here: Well....I pull everything apart again and replace the other.

Here's the problem. The light is still on and it's coming back for both P0325 and P0330.

I'm starting to get pretty aggravated. Here's the rundown:

1. Both sensors replaced.
2. Harness replaced and is NOT pinched.
3. Plugs are new.
4. Injectors were sent away for refurb.

S/S: Noticeable bog between 1,700-3,400 RPM. Verified that my ignition timing is retarded to 5 degrees. Idles perfectly and no signs of any other problems.

I need your help T4R.org. I kind of have an idea where to proceed next, but I'm not 100% sure. Anyone have some experience with this? I'd love to get some ideas. Thanks.

Here's wehre I'm thinking of going:

1. Compression Check...again (I did one recently and it came back fine)
2. Plugs
3. Check for vacuum Leaks???? (Causing it to run lean, maybe)
4. ?????????

 

[4Runner-Dan]

Any suggestions, guys????? Am I at least thinking down the right path?

 

[Rock_Rat]

Any suggestions, guys????? Am I at least thinking down the right path?

Have you checked my thread? You MUST go OEM with those sensors if you haven't.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/184979-knock-sensor-0330-everything-replaced-puzzled.html

 

[Rock_Rat]

Here's wehre I'm thinking of going:

1. Compression Check...again (I did one recently and it came back fine)
2. Plugs
3. Check for vacuum Leaks???? (Causing it to run lean, maybe)
4. ?????????

Nothing to do with the knock sensor codes. Knock sensor codes are specific to the actual status of the knock sensor. If they're working, no matter how badly your engine is running, you won't get the code. If you have a perfectly good running engine and the sensor is bad, you will get the code.

It's either one of four possibilities:

1. Sensors
2. Sub Harness Assembly
3. Short or open in the main harness
4. ECM

If your Scan Gauge is showing your timing advancing and retarding, no problem. If it isn't then you need to be careful of detonation.

Mike

 

[4Runner-Dan]

Nothing to do with the knock sensor codes. Knock sensor codes are specific to the actual status of the knock sensor. If they're working, no matter how badly your engine is running, you won't get the code. If you have a perfectly good running engine and the sensor is bad, you will get the code.

It's either one of four possibilities:

1. Sensors
2. Sub Harness Assembly
3. Short or open in the main harness
4. ECM

If your Scan Gauge is showing your timing advancing and retarding, no problem. If it isn't then you need to be careful of detonation.

Mike

Thanks for your input, Mike. Appreciate it and I'm glad I'm not the only one who has experienced this frustration. That sucks you had to go back purchase all OEM.

Those sensors aren't cheap. I cringed paying the $115 for the Intermotor ones from Advance. (And that's with $40 off!!!) I went back again over the weekend, pulled everything apart, and bench tested the sensors (again).

I was at the point of getting a donor ECU and testing it, but I will have to weigh my options again.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Knock Sensor Codes

Those sensors aren't cheap. I cringed paying the $115 for the Intermotor ones from Advance. (And that's with $40 off!!!)

Dang man Original price for aftermarket sensors were $155? You might try Toyota of Dallas. If you have a friend in the military, Toyota will honor them with a 10% discount. That's still pretty damn expensive but my codes never returned and my thumb is back to normal from resetting the CEL a brazillion times. I doubt it's your computer.

Hate to say this but once you "crush" your manifold gasket when you torque it down you should replace it again. It's probably not necessary, but I didn't take the chance. The last thing I wanted to do was chase a vacuum leak. Expensive lesson for me.

 

[4Runner-Dan]

Dang man Original price for aftermarket sensors were $155? You might try Toyota of Dallas. If you have a friend in the military, Toyota will honor them with a 10% discount. That's still pretty damn expensive but my codes never returned and my thumb is back to normal from resetting the CEL a brazillion times. I doubt it's your computer.

Hate to say this but once you "crush" your manifold gasket when you torque it down you should replace it again. It's probably not necessary, but I didn't take the chance. The last thing I wanted to do was chase a vacuum leak. Expensive lesson for me.

Yeah, it's ridiculous. I actually found a killer deal on some OEM knock sensors on eBay. I took the plunge and ordered them. Fingers crossed. In the meantime, I guess I'll disassemble and return the advance KS. I am getting good at doing this....I can knock it out in about 90 minutes. Haha. hwell:

 

[Dr_Lipshitz]

Did this end up curing your problem? I having a simar issue.

 

[4Runner-Dan]

Did this end up curing your problem? I having a simar issue.

My OEM knock sensors should be here tomorrow. My plan is to install early next week. I'll keep this updated with my results.

 

[4Runner-Dan]

Well, I think I can finally say that this issue is fixed. The OEM sensors did end up clearing the code. Drove around for 20 ish miles today and the light didn't pop once. Luckily, I was able to return one of the sensors for full refund to offset some of the cost.

Got tired of looking at this view all the time.


P/N for reference:


Differences:


Thanks [MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION]. Lesson learned...go with OEM.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Well, I think I can finally say that this issue is fixed. The OEM sensors did end up clearing the code.

No problem. Glad to see you're up and running again. Toyota must put pixie dust in their sensors.

 

[johnnyw104]

Question for you all. I have a 97 with the 3.4 and was pulling a cyl 3 misfire. I swapped ignition coils and now no longer get the misfire CEL but am now getting P0330 knock sensor bank 2. Any ideas? Thanks for the help. Sorry to piggy back but I'm a new member and it won't let me start a thread.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Since you didn't have the P0330 to start with but a cylinder misfire, make sure your spark plugs and wires are up to snuff. These are regular maintenance items.

After you've checked/replaced those (you can check resistance of the wires with a multimeter, visual inspection is not enough) then clear the codes by either using a scan tool or pulling the EFI relay and fuse in the engine bay or removing the negative battery cable for a few minutes.

If it does come back, it's the knock sensor. It will only throw that code if there's an issue with the sensor or communicating with the sensor. Excessive knocking or pre-detonation will not trigger the code, rather the sensors will retard the timing if working properly.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Question for you all. I have a 97 with the 3.4 and was pulling a cyl 3 misfire. I swapped ignition coils and now no longer get the misfire CEL but am now getting P0330 knock sensor bank 2. Any ideas? Thanks for the help. Sorry to piggy back but I'm a new member and it won't let me start a thread.

No problem piggy backing on this thread. It looks like you've been doing some research first which is commendable. The ignition coils and both sensors are actually unrelated. It seems more coincidental than anything that you now have a 0330 code.

First your coil - It looks like it might be on it's way out triggering a CEL and code. When you swapped it over and it didn't follow indicates perhaps your connector may have been loose or it wasn't seated properly. If it does follow, then you properly diagnosed it by doing the swap. Then it's either the rubber boot or the coil. If you still get the misfire on Cyl 3 then could be a fuel injector, plug, valves or head gasket. EDIT: As [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] this is regular maintenance on the top end.

Now the sensor code - The 0330 code is the ECM reporting to you that it's no longer receiving the values it needs from the sensor to advance or retard the timing because of a knock. Knock sensors are used to "fine tune" the engine. The system consists of two knock sensors, a sub-harness assembly, the main harness and the ECM. The connectors for the sensors become extremely brittle in the hot intake valley and they crack and fail. This is the most common failure. Also small rodents can find their way in there. Knock sensors rarely go bad, but yes I'm here to tell you they do.

EDIT: Wondering if you accidentally broke one of the wires or disconnected the sub-harness assy going to the ECM (You would end up with both sensor codes if it was completely disconnected.)

Continue to reset the code for a short bit if you have a code reader, and see if it goes away. You will not hurt the engine. It just won't run as efficiently as the ECM puts the timing in limp mode and reverts to it's default. Your MPG will take a serious hit.

I'll follow this thread and we'll proceed from there.

 

[johnnyw104]

Thanks for the help. Once I get it back from the shop (having front steering and suspension replaced) I will look at it some more with this info. I'll keep you all posted.

 

[TheDurk]

Has anybody tried this one? Looks to be the OEM DENSO sensor for $99. I haven't tried it, but I would if I needed it.

http://www.amazon.com/DENSO-SENSOR-Toyota-Avalon-89615-12040/dp/B00K0U3HBO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1443217744&sr=1-2&keywords=DENSO+-+KNOCK+SENSOR+-+%28Toyota

They also have the harness:

Amazon.com: GENUINE TOYOTA 4Runner,T100,Tacoma,Tundra Knock Sensor Harness 82219-34010: Automotive

 

[Rock_Rat]

Has anybody tried this one? Looks to be the OEM DENSO sensor for $99. I haven't tried it, but I would if I needed it.

Sure does look similar. Mine had the 71N 10R15 on the side. Check out my photo in the link:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-everything-replaced-puzzled.html#post1901609

EDIT: There'a clear difference in the NAPA compared to the Denso. I'm not seeing any difference in these. $99 - NICE price!

 

[afg10000]

Has anybody tried this one? Looks to be the OEM DENSO sensor for $99. I haven't tried it, but I would if I needed it.

http://www.amazon.com/DENSO-SENSOR-Toyota-Avalon-89615-12040/dp/B00K0U3HBO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1443217744&sr=1-2&keywords=DENSO+-+KNOCK+SENSOR+-+%28Toyota

They also have the harness:

Amazon.com: GENUINE TOYOTA 4Runner,T100,Tacoma,Tundra Knock Sensor Harness 82219-34010: Automotive

Hey, TheDurk - Has anyone verified these ones from amazon to your knowledge? I gots to order some and amazon would be easy. Thanks, man -

 

[TheDurk]

Hey, TheDurk - Has anyone verified these ones from amazon to your knowledge? I gots to order some and amazon would be easy. Thanks, man -

Not to my knowledge. No one ever responded to that post. If you do try it, please post back.

 

[afg10000]

Not to my knowledge. No one ever responded to that post. If you do try it, please post back.

I'll give it a shot. Can you verify one thing for me? I'd like to do both sensors and harnesses if I'm tearing down that far. I'm getting mixed part#'s from camelback and other sources. Do I want the 12040's or the 12090's? Both are on amazon (denso). Suppose I should say for my '98 limited. Thanks for getting back to me.