P0325 & P0330 Diagnosis

[TheDurk]

I'll give it a shot. Can you verify one thing for me? I'd like to do both sensors and harnesses if I'm tearing down that far. I'm getting mixed part#'s from camelback and other sources. Do I want the 12040's or the 12090's? Both are on amazon (denso). Suppose I should say for my '98 limited. Thanks for getting back to me.

Both are listed for that truck, but the Denso is the 12090 (originally Part No. 89615-12050). The 12040 is also OEM but made by Matsushita. So I would go with 12090. I have no idea and no way to tell what trucks came with the Matsushita.

You probably saw this in the Amazon listing for the 12040 which is a Denso:

This is a "BRAND NEW" Very High Quality Original Equipment Denso Knock Sensor. (Original Equipment means its Manufactured by those who make it for Toyota, not aftermarket, ... A GENUINE Toyota Part ). One can often tell he needs a new knock sensor with a check engine light or notice symptoms like sluggish and poor engine poor acceleration/performance. Often you will also see a noticeable decrease in fuel economy. Seldom will knock sensors fail outright and but rather slowly fail over time and cause false signals to be sent to the ECU which thinks the engine is knocking when it's actually not. Cars equipped with the Denso Brand Sensor Seldom fail compared to the cars that came equipped with the Matsushita Brand. Master Toyota Techs request this DENSO brand over the Matsushita Brand. Both work, both are Genuine to Toyota. So if you want the Best Genuine Sensor for your application, This DENSO Sensor is the Choice of Master Toyota Techs.

I think they are just selling the Denso 12090 as the 12040 which is the number for the Matsushita. So I'm guessing you'd get the same thing either way. I'd just order the Denso 12090.

Here is the listing I get for your truck:

89615 SENSOR, KNOCK CONTROL
89615-12040 MATSUSHITA 2 $210.22
89615-12050 DENSO 2 $210.22

Then the 12050 is replaced by the 12090.

 

[afg10000]

Thanks, TheDurk. That's kinda what I was thinking. I'll give 'em a try a report back.

 

[J. B.]

So I finally got around to addressing my P0325 by installing new wire harness. Looked at the knock sensors and they looked fine. old harness connector basically crumbled when I went to take it off... so suspected that was the issue. Got it all buttoned back up with new gaskets, new plugs and wires... and still have P0325. damn.

So I guess I need to get new sensors. Confirming the correct part number for the OEM Denso knock sensors as 89615-12090 correct?

Anyone have any luck on ebay? Looks to be a selling in MN selling these for a little over $50. Almost like a 2 for 1 eh? Packaging appears to be OEM Toyota parts. Anyone go this route and can comment before I pull the trigger?

ebay link here

Thanks!

 

[4Runner-Dan]

So I finally got around to addressing my P0325 by installing new wire harness. Looked at the knock sensors and they looked fine. old harness connector basically crumbled when I went to take it off... so suspected that was the issue. Got it all buttoned back up with new gaskets, new plugs and wires... and still have P0325. damn.

So I guess I need to get new sensors. Confirming the correct part number for the OEM Denso knock sensors as 89615-12090 correct?

Anyone have any luck on ebay? Looks to be a selling in MN selling these for a little over $50. Almost like a 2 for 1 eh? Packaging appears to be OEM Toyota parts. Anyone go this route and can comment before I pull the trigger?

ebay link here

Thanks!

That appears to be the correct P/N. I would be a LITTLE weary of that seller. Mine came in bubble wrap (take it for what it's worth...) and I got them from this seller on eBay.
Toyota Lexus 8961512090 Ignition Knock Detonation Sensor 89615 12090 | eBay

These sensors fixed my problem completely. I know these work 100%.

 

[J. B.]

Thanks for the quick response!

I'll probably just order the ones from your link since they're only like $5 more each.

 

[gamefreakgc]

So I finally got around to addressing my P0325 by installing new wire harness. Looked at the knock sensors and they looked fine. old harness connector basically crumbled when I went to take it off... so suspected that was the issue. Got it all buttoned back up with new gaskets, new plugs and wires... and still have P0325. damn.

So I guess I need to get new sensors. Confirming the correct part number for the OEM Denso knock sensors as 89615-12090 correct?

Anyone have any luck on ebay? Looks to be a selling in MN selling these for a little over $50. Almost like a 2 for 1 eh? Packaging appears to be OEM Toyota parts. Anyone go this route and can comment before I pull the trigger?

ebay link here

Thanks!

I would avoid that Ebay seller. The parts bag spelled "KNOCK SENSER" wrong. Classic example of counterfeit items.

 

[afg10000]

I can confirm that the amazon seller for the sensors and harness are OE and worked like a charm. Got everything done about two weeks ago and no CEL. What a silly job. Did find an ancient mouse nest under my fuel rail -

 

[Steveo1185]

97 3.4 4runner

I'm having the same exact issue as you are except mine is a p0325 for bank one I've replaced everything plugs wires coils sub harness both oem sensors my sub harness was broke on the bank 1 side figured that was my problem but nope been chasing this issue since before Christmas and I'm a skilled mechanic I'm lost any help is appreciated is it possible the broke wire short the computer I have continuity from sub harness all the way back to the computer am I missing something?

 

[Rock_Rat]

I'm having the same exact issue as you are except mine is a p0325 for bank one I've replaced everything plugs wires coils sub harness both oem sensors my sub harness was broke on the bank 1 side figured that was my problem but nope been chasing this issue since before Christmas and I'm a skilled mechanic I'm lost any help is appreciated is it possible the broke wire short the computer I have continuity from sub harness all the way back to the computer am I missing something?

This is a very simple circuit with simple logic. The only things you need to replace are:

1. Sub harness Assy - ~$25
2. OEM Toyota Knock Sensors, NOT an OEM replacement. ~$125ea

• Install sensors DRY (No dielectric grease needed)
• Install Harness Assy DRY (No dielectric grease needed)
• Ensure your harness assy is sitting correctly in the small channel in the intake manifold. If not it will be pinched. (Check this first since you've already had it apart)

Your computer is fine.

 

[Steveo1185]

Yes factory Toyota parts str8 from Toyota

 

[Steveo1185]

It's advancing and retarding timing like it should but throwing a knock sensor bank 1 code maybe I got a bad sensor from Toyota?

 

[TheDurk]

It's advancing and retarding timing like it should but throwing a knock sensor bank 1 code maybe I got a bad sensor from Toyota?

Switch it with the other side to rule it out.

 

[Steveo1185]

I did it doesn't change stays at bank 1

 

[Lira3689]

Difference betwen bot Knock Sensors

Well, I think I can finally say that this issue is fixed. The OEM sensors did end up clearing the code. Drove around for 20 ish miles today and the light didn't pop once. Luckily, I was able to return one of the sensors for full refund to offset some of the cost.

Got tired of looking at this view all the time.


P/N for reference:


Differences:


Thanks [MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION]. Lesson learned...go with OEM.

Same issue i replaced both knock sensors on my 4runner with MATSUSHITA knock sensors and bot banks came back P325 P330, now i am in the process of installing the new knock sensors that are OEM (Denzo) and they dont look not as near as the new one, its more like the ones you have in the left. should i just go to toyota and get them, before i install this, or has anyone have good experience with the OEM Denzo,? thanks

 

[Rock_Rat]

Same issue i replaced both knock sensors on my 4runner with MATSUSHITA knock sensors and bot banks came back P325 P330, now i am in the process of installing the new knock sensors that are OEM (Denzo) and they dont look not as near as the new one, its more like the ones you have in the left. should i just go to toyota and get them, before i install this, or has anyone have good experience with the OEM Denzo,? thanks

They should look like the ones in my link Here - Photos of OEM Denso Sensors from Toyota Dealer v. the Napa Brand. If they don't look like the ones in my photo then you have a "knock-off" brand. I know some guys have had great luck with e-Bay but I also know guys will put "brand new" sensors on eBay for sale and you get stuck with them.


I'm not seeing a lot of success with the Matsushita's lately.

 

[Calm8809]

Hey all, sorry to resurrect an old thread but I'm in a pickle with one of my trucks and you all seem very knowledgeable on P0330. Since I'm a "new" member, I don't believe I have the ability to create a new thread so here I am.

I just bought a '00 SR5 with the 3.4L and 200K to replace my mother's ending lease. Everything ran great when I test drove it. I brought my mother back to test drive it and it ran flawlessly. A few days later, I paid the man and drove it home. Of course, on the way home I get a CEL. I plugged in and got system too lean. I cleared the code when I got home and noticed the next day the truck was running really rough when under load (even just putting it in neutral and hitting the gas). It was behaving much like my '97 when I was having ignition issues. I went ahead and tried new plug and new plug wires since the wires that it came with were quite thin. Still, it ran rough and the system too lean code of course came back now along with P0330. I cleaned off the MAF and stuck it back in but the roughness was still there evident by the fact that I now couldn't get it above 30 and had trouble starting. I could see using my reader that the MAF was quite responsive but the guy I bought the truck from said the MAF might be done with so I grabbed one out of a Camry when I went to the yard for a few other things. I cleaned it up and stuck it in but there's still a struggle. Now all I'm getting is the P0330 (but I don't know that I've run long enough to get system too lean again). I found this thread and from reading it, I see that I can check the sensors by checking for a timing advance change. I plugged back in and can see on #1 (the only one my scanner gives me) the timing does indeed change when I give it some gas. I'm not too sure where to go from here. I've been told that a bad or disconnected knock sensor can cause what I'm experiencing, I just don't see what the issue is if the timing is responsive.

I know my I4 2.7L like the back of my hand but I've only met this engine a week ago so please forgive me for my lack of experience in the V6 configuration. I understand that this engine has two knock sensors, one on each head. From other research, I believe bank 1 is on the passenger side and bank 2 on the driver's. I also saw that cylinder 1 (the one I'm reading the advance for) is on the passenger side putting it on bank one. The questions I have now are:

1. Since P0330 is the code for bank 2, is it possible that I wouldn't be able to read a timing advance issue since I'm only reading from bank one?
2. Wouldn't the timing advance be the same for all cylinders?
3. Could the timing advance just be running on the presumably working bank 1 sensor?

Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated. Also, as I am new here, any etiquette related constructive criticism is also very welcome. Thanks all!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Hey all, sorry to resurrect an old thread but I'm in a pickle with one of my trucks and you all seem very knowledgeable on P0330. Since I'm a "new" member, I don't believe I have the ability to create a new thread so here I am.

I just bought a '00 SR5 with the 3.4L and 200K to replace my mother's ending lease. Everything ran great when I test drove it. I brought my mother back to test drive it and it ran flawlessly. A few days later, I paid the man and drove it home. Of course, on the way home I get a CEL. I plugged in and got system too lean. I cleared the code when I got home and noticed the next day the truck was running really rough when under load (even just putting it in neutral and hitting the gas). It was behaving much like my '97 when I was having ignition issues. I went ahead and tried new plug and new plug wires since the wires that it came with were quite thin. Still, it ran rough and the system too lean code of course came back now along with P0330. I cleaned off the MAF and stuck it back in but the roughness was still there evident by the fact that I now couldn't get it above 30 and had trouble starting. I could see using my reader that the MAF was quite responsive but the guy I bought the truck from said the MAF might be done with so I grabbed one out of a Camry when I went to the yard for a few other things. I cleaned it up and stuck it in but there's still a struggle. Now all I'm getting is the P0330 (but I don't know that I've run long enough to get system too lean again). I found this thread and from reading it, I see that I can check the sensors by checking for a timing advance change. I plugged back in and can see on #1 (the only one my scanner gives me) the timing does indeed change when I give it some gas. I'm not too sure where to go from here. I've been told that a bad or disconnected knock sensor can cause what I'm experiencing, I just don't see what the issue is if the timing is responsive.

I know my I4 2.7L like the back of my hand but I've only met this engine a week ago so please forgive me for my lack of experience in the V6 configuration. I understand that this engine has two knock sensors, one on each head. From other research, I believe bank 1 is on the passenger side and bank 2 on the driver's. I also saw that cylinder 1 (the one I'm reading the advance for) is on the passenger side putting it on bank one. The questions I have now are:

1. Since P0330 is the code for bank 2, is it possible that I wouldn't be able to read a timing advance issue since I'm only reading from bank one?
2. Wouldn't the timing advance be the same for all cylinders?
3. Could the timing advance just be running on the presumably working bank 1 sensor?

Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated. Also, as I am new here, any etiquette related constructive criticism is also very welcome. Thanks all!

As I've just gone through this fiasco myself, hopefully I can help.

Lean code, or P0171, is almost always a vacuum leak. This video will help:

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9CPqbaSgcok" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>




For the knock sensor, the timing advance under 3000 RPM ignores the knock sensor signals and uses a pre-set map. That's why you are seeing the timing move around while still showing the P0330 code. That's also part of the cause of the lack of acceleration since once you go over 3000 RPM's and the knock sensor signal is read by the ECU, it pulls all timing advance. Your scanner is showing "Bank 1 Timing Advance" but it's all the same, there is no bank 1 or bank 2 timing. Just engine timing.

One thing to try before buying more parts it to de-pin the harness side of the knock sensors. BE CAREFUL WITH THE HARNESS as most fail due to heat damage. If you bend it too much it might snap and half and you'll find yourself holding a wire harness with nothing attached to it. On the pigtail harness, remove the center white piece with a small screwdriver, it pops out. Then you'll see two little tabs inside, pop those down and the wires will come out the back. Swap the wires around and reassemble. Clear your check engine codes and see if you now show a P0325. If yes, you found the offending sensor, but be sure to replace the harness too. Good luck!

 

[Calm8809]

Man, I completely forgot about having this issue. Truck ended up having tons of problems and I had to bring it in to the shop. For anyone else who happens on this thread, I think the biggest problem ended up being the IAC full of goop so that might be something to check.

If I remember it all correctly, while I had it in, my mechanic noticed it was taking a while to heat up and suggested I change out the thermostat. Ended up being no thermostat in there so I put one in. Month or so later it blew a head gasket. Ended up doing that and the timing belt/WP. While I was in there I noticed the pigtail for the knock sensor was unplugged on one side. I bought a new pigtail and installed it during the rebuild. Sadly, that didn't fix it. Ended up changing the knock sensor while I was in there for something else about a year ago and that seems to have done the trick. Now I'm back to figure out the next set of issues. This poor truck was not loved by the PO like I had though.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Thanks for the update. My rig is going through issues of the rusty kind. Things keep falling off[emoji12]


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[Calm8809]

Thanks for the update. My rig is going through issues of the rusty kind. Things keep falling off[emoji12]


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Thankfully we don't really have that problem down here in Florida.