P0770 code keeps firing...need help!

johnsoma73

New member
Hi guys,

I have a 2001 T4R, 4WD, with a A340F that is firing the ol P0770 code and need your help.

So P0770 code keeps firing on me. I put all new solenoids in and did a new filter and fluid with a flush. Cleared the code and drove20 miles and it came right back. What should I do?

The service manual, see image below, says to next "repair or replace the valve body" then "replace the torque converter clutch" to fix the code. What will most likely work? What does it mean to "repair or replace the valve body"? I know what replace means,but repair? does repair mean rebuild with new internals or just clean it out? If it means clean it out, how is that done, I have never done it, it is better to just get a shop to do it? If so how much should that cost if I pull the valve body and take it to them?

Thanks for your help. Im in SoCal in Hermosa Beach if any members are close and want to meet up.

Mike
d2wJ8

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Also getting the same code on my 97 since 100 miles after I bought it on Saturday. Transmission is shifting fine, but I haven't had the time to look into it yet. I'd also love to get some input on anyone that's had this issue before. Thanks in advance!
95f573764f0bbca1b41a7227ea23819e.jpg



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From the little bit of research I've done on it, there might be some corroded wires or bad connections between the trans and the ecu if you haven't checked there yet


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From the little bit of research I've done on it, there might be some corroded wires or bad connections between the trans and the ecu if you haven't checked there yet


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Did you replace the solenoid e? You have to remove the valve body to get to it.
 
The E solenoid controls the torque converter lock. It doesn't affect shifting. You'll notice the problem on the highway when it's in 4th and isn't locking.

I got this code accompanied with the sound of a bunch of marbles bouncing around in my trans - I had to have the torque converter replaced and put in a lower mileage trans while It was off.
 
The E solenoid controls the torque converter lock. It doesn't affect shifting. You'll notice the problem on the highway when it's in 4th and isn't locking.

I got this code accompanied with the sound of a bunch of marbles bouncing around in my trans - I had to have the torque converter replaced and put in a lower mileage trans while It was off.



What's the best way to tell that the trans is locking in 4th? I remember reading it will lock into 4th at 50mph. Merging on the highway, I'll notice the shift into 4th at 50mph under slow, steady acceleration.


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What's the best way to tell that the trans is locking in 4th? I remember reading it will lock into 4th at 50mph. Merging on the highway, I'll notice the shift into 4th at 50mph under slow, steady acceleration.


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It's kind of just something you feel I guess. if you're highway cruising around 70mph, and take your foot off the gas, the rpms will drop to idle. If you go back on the gas to accelerate, you'll see the rpms jump high, maybe 3500, then come back down to like 3000 as the trans locks. It's like in a manual vehicle letting the clutch out - when the clutch is all the way out, the trans is locked.

Surely someone can do more justice to this question than I just did haha
 
What's the best way to tell that the trans is locking in 4th? I remember reading it will lock into 4th at 50mph. Merging on the highway, I'll notice the shift into 4th at 50mph under slow, steady acceleration.


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It can be locked all the time, or not locked depending on the position of the solenoid. 4th will kick in about 45 MPH and you should have lockout. The easiest way to see if lockout is working is to take O/D OFF and see if the RPMs drop about 2-300. That means it's going into lockout.

If its in lockout all the time, you wouldn't be able to move the truck at all.
 
I received the same PO770 code on my 2001 4Runner with 235K. I basically had to get the transmission rebuilt - torque converter, clutches, bands, etc. No more codes for now.
 
I received the same PO770 code on my 2001 4Runner with 235K. I basically had to get the transmission rebuilt - torque converter, clutches, bands, etc. No more codes for now.

Unfortunately, this is usually what happens. Very few people have been able to replace a solenoid and have their issue fixed. There are lots of reasons why you can have the P0770 code - bad solenoid, bad relay, worn sleeve, bad ball valve, or mechanical debris causing any one of these to not function properly. Potentially, you could take it to a shop and have them replace all 5 solenoids (Toyota OEM are $200-300 each), and the valve body, or replace the entire transmission. By the time you spend $800 on a Toyota valve body and 5 solenoids, you are into the transmission the same as replacing/rebuilding it due to high cost of Toyota OEM parts. They do make aftermarket shift kits which includes all the solenoids, and you can have the valve body rebuilt for about $300-500.
 
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I'm so confused what to do. It sucks that it is so hard to narrow down the problem and fix it.

What does everyone think I should do? What is the cheapest definitive way to fix it? Rebuild valve body and new torgue converter?


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It can be locked all the time, or not locked depending on the position of the solenoid. 4th will kick in about 45 MPH and you should have lockout. The easiest way to see if lockout is working is to take O/D OFF and see if the RPMs drop about 2-300. That means it's going into lockout.



If its in lockout all the time, you wouldn't be able to move the truck at all.



So I took my 4Runner out to test this. At 55mph I turned O/D off and the rpms went up by about 6-700, not down. Also, just left off the gas at that speed and the trans drops to about 1500rpm (idle is around 700). I'd like to replace the bad solenoid first but I'm unsure of which one "E" is. I had trouble finding a chart on the solenoids. Any insight would be awesome, thanks


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So I took my 4Runner out to test this. At 55mph I turned O/D off and the rpms went up by about 6-700, not down. Also, just left off the gas at that speed and the trans drops to about 1500rpm (idle is around 700). I'd like to replace the bad solenoid first but I'm unsure of which one "E" is. I had trouble finding a chart on the solenoids. Any insight would be awesome, thanks


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In 3rd gear or 4th gear to 3rd gear? If you step on the gas on the freeway and go into 3rd gear (~3200 RPM at 65) and then press the O/D Off button, what happens? Does it drop by 2-300 RPM? Sorry I should have been more clear. It may have shifted from 4th to 3rd which would explain the RPMs increasing. Lockout is not engaged while the truck is in 3rd gear and O/D is on. The O/D off button is only one way to check and see if it is working. Another way is any freeway speed shifting from 3rd to 4th on it's own, then the RPMs slowly drop 2-300 after it shifts. Or, if you step on the gas on the freeway slowly increasing, is there a point where the RPMs increase 2-300 before it shifts to like 3500? I can post a video if you would like.
 
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I'm so confused what to do. It sucks that it is so hard to narrow down the problem and fix it.

What does everyone think I should do? What is the cheapest definitive way to fix it? Rebuild valve body and new torgue converter?


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I would take it to a trusted transmission shop. They have the tools to diagnose it. Just rebuilding the valve body and replacing the torque converter clutch alone may not fix the issue. Right now you need a diagnosis to go further. Don't just throw money at it hoping it will fix the problem. A new valve body from Toyota costs around $800, or you can have it rebuilt for about 1/2 that. Your issue could be caused by any one or more parts I mentioned above failing.
 
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I agree I dont want to just throw money at it. Therein lies the problem as many shops will be unable to diagnose with a simple road test and without pulling the trans. Thus taking it out will cost a lot and by that point wouldnt it make sense to change the torque converter, clean the valve body(since I already changed the three solenoids), and then put it back to see if that fixes it? How much should that cost?

How much would it cost to just rebuild it?

Or should I just get a new rebuilt trans and put it back in? How much should that cost?

Im clueless with this. It is so tough to decide what to do bc noone can give you a clear answer as to what will fix it. It could be this or this or this. what do you think is the cheapest way to definitely fix it? My thoughts would be to pull the tranny myself, and have someone rebuild it and the valve body then I put on a new torque converter and put it back in, thoughts?

How much does it cost to just rebuild a transmission?

Thanks,
Mike
 
I agree I dont want to just throw money at it. Therein lies the problem as many shops will be unable to diagnose with a simple road test and without pulling the trans. Thus taking it out will cost a lot and by that point wouldnt it make sense to change the torque converter, clean the valve body(since I already changed the three solenoids), and then put it back to see if that fixes it? How much should that cost?

How much would it cost to just rebuild it?

Or should I just get a new rebuilt trans and put it back in? How much should that cost?

Im clueless with this. It is so tough to decide what to do bc noone can give you a clear answer as to what will fix it. It could be this or this or this. what do you think is the cheapest way to definitely fix it? My thoughts would be to pull the tranny myself, and have someone rebuild it and the valve body then I put on a new torque converter and put it back in, thoughts?

How much does it cost to just rebuild a transmission?

Thanks,
Mike

Recent quotes are around $2500 here in Utah for complete rebuild. $1500 if you take the transmission out yourself. The transmission shops should have the tools and knowledge to narrow it down pretty good as to what is going on. I would be looking around thoroughly if you want to save money and get a good diagnosis unless you just want it rebuilt or buy a reman from Toyota. Most people end up with a rebuild after having the P0770 code, for a Honda, it is the kiss of death to the tranny. I believe the transmissions are made by Aisin as well, however much less reliable than in our trucks.

If you had a bad torque converter, it would have ruined the transmission as it sends metal pieces of the torque converter through the transmission. Replacing the torque converter is unlikely to solve your issue.

You need to schedule an appointment with a transmission shop, and have them take the time to diagnose it. It may cost you $80. Get multiple opinions if needed. There just isn't a cheap way around what to do for a transmission issue. If it's shifting fine, just drive it.

Make sure that all your electrical connections to the transmission are intact, not corroded or damaged. That's the first thing to look at.
 
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I agree I dont want to just throw money at it. Therein lies the problem as many shops will be unable to diagnose with a simple road test and without pulling the trans. Thus taking it out will cost a lot and by that point wouldnt it make sense to change the torque converter, clean the valve body(since I already changed the three solenoids), and then put it back to see if that fixes it? How much should that cost?

How much would it cost to just rebuild it?

Or should I just get a new rebuilt trans and put it back in? How much should that cost?

Im clueless with this. It is so tough to decide what to do bc noone can give you a clear answer as to what will fix it. It could be this or this or this. what do you think is the cheapest way to definitely fix it? My thoughts would be to pull the tranny myself, and have someone rebuild it and the valve body then I put on a new torque converter and put it back in, thoughts?

How much does it cost to just rebuild a transmission?

Thanks,
Mike

I see you are possibly at least sort of local.

I've been using Tustin Transmission for my trucks for years and would trust them to properly diagnose and repair whatever is wrong with your trans. I've never had a T4R trans rebuilt but I can tell you that the most recent trans rebuild I had done on a V-10 F-350 cost about $2,600. They do enough transmissions that they can quote the cost of a rebuild over the phone - or at least they can for my Ford transmissions. A phone call could' t hurt.

I like that they actually rebuild transmissions on site and don't just swap in remans. They always show me the parts they replaced and explain what happened.

If you wanting to economize you could probably make a deal to pull your own trans but you'll want it in the truck for diagnosis before you do that.

Good luck!
 
P0770 and possible ECM issue

I'm having the same issue on my 2002 4runner. I've rebuilt the transmission, and check engine and VSC/Trac light on again after taking it back to the same mechanic the 3rd time. The Mechanic is pretty reputable and now informing me that it could be my computer. I did a little research, and found out that the RAV4s have had this issue as well, but not too much on the 4runners. I was wondering if anyone had this issue with their 4runner and could this be a possibility? Just don't want to keep spending money to fix this car.

Toyota RAV4 Transmission Solenoid Problems

Thanks
 

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