Paint Job
- Thread starter 2000runr
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Running-Riot
New member
I know how you feel.
The previous owner of my 99' Black Limited didn't take the greatest care of the paint job. You can't see in my avatar, but the extreme frontal portion of my hood, is covered in insect leftovers, which have over time, eaten through the clear coat. This all happened before I got the vehicle, leaving me to deal with the issue. Not to mention, numerous key scratches from unlocking and locking the door at night.
Currently, I'm looking for a sport edition hood with a scoop, that juuust happens to be black so that I can make a switch.
I guess I'd say get it taken care of if it matters enough, and you have enough bank to do so.
The previous owner of my 99' Black Limited didn't take the greatest care of the paint job. You can't see in my avatar, but the extreme frontal portion of my hood, is covered in insect leftovers, which have over time, eaten through the clear coat. This all happened before I got the vehicle, leaving me to deal with the issue. Not to mention, numerous key scratches from unlocking and locking the door at night.
Currently, I'm looking for a sport edition hood with a scoop, that juuust happens to be black so that I can make a switch.
I guess I'd say get it taken care of if it matters enough, and you have enough bank to do so.
longhaul747
New member
I can't believe what they want for paint work now days. I got a little bit of clear coat peeling up by my right rear window between the window and the luggage rack. Its not real bad and barely noticable but it might be one of these days. Stopped by the body shop to get an estimate for the roof and hood to be repainted was $1800 and change. I could not get them to just fix the 5" square spot. They claim it won't blend correctly. If I drop the hood repair its around $1200.
I intend to shop around but likely most shops charge about the same and if one really undercuts then its likely not as good of a job.
I intend to shop around but likely most shops charge about the same and if one really undercuts then its likely not as good of a job.
2000runr
Guest
the shop is right about the blending. about a year and a half ago i had my hood repainted and they had to blend it down into the passenger fender. the 1800 is slightly inflated, but not terribly.
i used the clay bar yesterday and some of the "rust" spots came right off. there are some however that arent budging. my thought process is that if they arent getting worse, ignore them, but if i want to keep this truck another 10 years, it may be time to go back to the detail shop and let them buff them out if they can.
can anyone recommend a good hand held buffer?
i used the clay bar yesterday and some of the "rust" spots came right off. there are some however that arent budging. my thought process is that if they arent getting worse, ignore them, but if i want to keep this truck another 10 years, it may be time to go back to the detail shop and let them buff them out if they can.
can anyone recommend a good hand held buffer?
I have been doing paint and bodywork and have worked at independent shops and dealerships for 30 yrs.
Paint time is taken from a crash book or is now generated from estimate writing computer programs. Paint and material is taken from the hours required to refinish said part, anywhere from 16.00 to 26.00 per paint hour.
Additional time can be added for extra operations such as sanding out scratches, sandblasting rust spots, wet sand, buff and polish or whatever. Most shops will try to pad an estimate to squeeze every dollar they can out of you.
If any of you people are interested I can get you the actual crash book time to refinish, and install panels on your vehicles. Repair time is always discretionary.
And yes, you do get what you pay for. Removing the glass or any other obstacle before painting is the right way to do things. Masking up emblems and removable items such as door handles, mirrors, flares is really not in your best interest as it leads to a possible peeling problem down the road, and just doesn't look as professional. Check out a Maaco paint job sometime. They look good from 50ft. but any closer and you will wince.
Check out your local craiglist for guys who do bodywork and paint work on the side. I on occasion have advertised on there. Side jobs are always cheaper than regular bodyshop prices and usually it is the same guys doing it as the guys at the shops.
Paint time is taken from a crash book or is now generated from estimate writing computer programs. Paint and material is taken from the hours required to refinish said part, anywhere from 16.00 to 26.00 per paint hour.
Additional time can be added for extra operations such as sanding out scratches, sandblasting rust spots, wet sand, buff and polish or whatever. Most shops will try to pad an estimate to squeeze every dollar they can out of you.
If any of you people are interested I can get you the actual crash book time to refinish, and install panels on your vehicles. Repair time is always discretionary.
And yes, you do get what you pay for. Removing the glass or any other obstacle before painting is the right way to do things. Masking up emblems and removable items such as door handles, mirrors, flares is really not in your best interest as it leads to a possible peeling problem down the road, and just doesn't look as professional. Check out a Maaco paint job sometime. They look good from 50ft. but any closer and you will wince.
Check out your local craiglist for guys who do bodywork and paint work on the side. I on occasion have advertised on there. Side jobs are always cheaper than regular bodyshop prices and usually it is the same guys doing it as the guys at the shops.
2000runr
Guest
im heading back to auto beauty specialists next week to have them do an exterior detailing. they are fantastic at removing rust spots via wet sanding/chemical wash, reapplying clear coat, buffing, all the good stuff. if any of you are in st louis, i highly recommend them. i used them a couple yrs ago to get this vehicle back in tip top shape, she deserves another detailing!
