Panhard bracket
- Thread starter Coopsdaddy
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Coopsdaddy
New member
If I go with the bracket I'm thinking about making my own.
JayRolla
New member
Yes that's it. IMO you would rather have the adjustment bar for that lift.
MStudt
official vendor
The bracket will help get you pan hard back to the proper geometry. It's still not going to be perfect, but it'll be a lot closer. Your pan hard should be parallel to you axle in an ideal situation. In some unique situations that's not good because you can lose up-travel on the side with the bracket. That situation doesn't come into play with our 4runners.
The drop bracket and an adjustable pan hard will both give you the same outcome. The drop bracket will lower your pan hard, and at the same time push your axle to the driver side. It'll push it enough to get it back to the stock location. The longer pan hard does the exact same thing as well. Some believe there's an added benefit to one vs the other, but you get the same outcome when it's all said an done.
However, the bracket is designed to work within a certain range. Beyond that range an adjustable will better dial it in. Running over 3-1/2" I'd go with an adjustable. Between the 2"-3-1/2" range I'd go with a drop bracket.
The drop bracket and an adjustable pan hard will both give you the same outcome. The drop bracket will lower your pan hard, and at the same time push your axle to the driver side. It'll push it enough to get it back to the stock location. The longer pan hard does the exact same thing as well. Some believe there's an added benefit to one vs the other, but you get the same outcome when it's all said an done.
However, the bracket is designed to work within a certain range. Beyond that range an adjustable will better dial it in. Running over 3-1/2" I'd go with an adjustable. Between the 2"-3-1/2" range I'd go with a drop bracket.
Last edited:
tinman
New member
I'm not running a drop bracket, but do have Toytec's adjustable panhard bar. It works really well. I also really like the full movement/no binding with the joint on the axle side.
HOWEVER, I still get a sideways push when I hit a bump. But it has caused me no ill wear or issues. So, if you run only the adjustable panhard bar with a higher lift & no drop bracket, (I have about 4" rear lift) you will be able to recenter the axle, but when the suspension compresses over a speed bump or the like, you can feel the vehicle push to the passenger side. To remedy this push to the passenger side, run the drop bracket to get the panhard bar closer to parallel with the axle (like MStudt said). Either buy or make a drop bracket if you have the means.)
Nelsonmd
New member
This topic has been discussed in detail in other threads, so you might find some useful posts if you search a bit more.
Some of the greatest hits from those conversations were:
1. The adjustable/longer panhard very commonly causes the diff/DS to hit the gas tank skid pan (not 100%, but for alot of people)
2. The drop bracket lowers the pivot point of the chassis causing increased roll (not terrible, but it's there).
3. the proper way to fix the panhard angle for a lift would be to raise the mount on the axle side, but this would cause the panhard to hit the cross member on these 4runners.
4. Lots of people have had both the drop bracket and the adjustable panhard work for them (either, not both at the same time).
5. If you use a drop bracket, you need to have it welded on, not just bolted on. This is part of why Sonoran steel stopped selling the drop bracket.
6. You can make your own adjustable panhard, but you need a heavy duty Heim joint, and you HAVE to have a compliant rubber bushing at the other end, otherwise you Heim will fail very quickly. Also, you need to use high quality high strength steel for the joint and nut, not just a cheap heim joint and home depot nut.
I think those were the major points. Put up some others if you remember them.
Some of the greatest hits from those conversations were:
1. The adjustable/longer panhard very commonly causes the diff/DS to hit the gas tank skid pan (not 100%, but for alot of people)
2. The drop bracket lowers the pivot point of the chassis causing increased roll (not terrible, but it's there).
3. the proper way to fix the panhard angle for a lift would be to raise the mount on the axle side, but this would cause the panhard to hit the cross member on these 4runners.
4. Lots of people have had both the drop bracket and the adjustable panhard work for them (either, not both at the same time).
5. If you use a drop bracket, you need to have it welded on, not just bolted on. This is part of why Sonoran steel stopped selling the drop bracket.
6. You can make your own adjustable panhard, but you need a heavy duty Heim joint, and you HAVE to have a compliant rubber bushing at the other end, otherwise you Heim will fail very quickly. Also, you need to use high quality high strength steel for the joint and nut, not just a cheap heim joint and home depot nut.
I think those were the major points. Put up some others if you remember them.
Coopsdaddy
New member
I think I will make a bracket and a gusset,I can save 200 buck and put that towards Mstuds end links(I think that would be a better use of my money sence this is a daily driver.
I will end up with about 3.25 lift it says with the superflex springs,do you think I should make the hole spacing 3 or 3.25 on the bracket,toytecs is 2.5?
I will end up with about 3.25 lift it says with the superflex springs,do you think I should make the hole spacing 3 or 3.25 on the bracket,toytecs is 2.5?
Nelsonmd
New member
No offence to his end links, but I think they would be a major waste of money. Unless you are going to off-road it alot and KNOW that you really want easy disconnects, then your money is better spent elsewhere. For occasional off-roading, it is easy enough to just remove the top nut on a regular link. Really unless you are rock crawling and need maximum flex, you probably don't even need to disconnect the sway bars.
If its mostly a DD, then save the $150 to spend on additional maintenance, or save it for the next parts failure. How old are your LBJ's?
I know that's not a fun opinion, but I think you'll be happier with it in the long run.
Last edited:
Coopsdaddy
New member
No serious off roading,just trails and camping.
I wasn't going to get the ones that disconnect.
Maybe I'll try to find another set of oem fronts to put on the back,I have read that's a option as well.
I only have 102000 mi but I am going to change lbjs while doing the lift.
Thanks for the input
I wasn't going to get the ones that disconnect.
Maybe I'll try to find another set of oem fronts to put on the back,I have read that's a option as well.
I only have 102000 mi but I am going to change lbjs while doing the lift.
Thanks for the input
Nelsonmd
New member
Oh, if you're not going to get the disconnects, then just get some aftermarket ones. I got some moog's for $30/pr and they are fine. The links aren't really a performance part, all they have to do is not break. The consequence of them breaking is practically nothing too, so not a big deal if they do break. Mine have lasted about 4 years now, longer than I expected considering how badly stuffs rusts around here. They look fine too; I'm no fan of Moog in general, but their end links have been fine.
the great him
Elite Member
i am running both together. and imo the drop bracket is better. yes they both work, but lengthening the bar will cause more side to side axle/body travel during and over bumps or in corners... the longer the bar the more the swing of the arc, make sense? the issue with drop brackets is they are not a exact science... unless you have access to a CAD CNC and large press. hence why i run both. i made a custom drop bracket, and have it "close" but it was still off. so i used the adjustable bar to get it right, its now with in a .01", and thats good enough for me.
Coopsdaddy
New member
It looks like the toy tec bracket is nothing but a peice of 2in tube with the side cut off and corners cut.
snivilous
Senior Member
Just make a bracket that drops it by the amount of lift. If it's close you're good. You can't get it perfect regardless what you do, the height of the back always changes depending on road conditions and what the truck is carrying. Or just don't run it. I'm not running it with a 3" lift and no issues. I definitely wouldn't spend over $20 for that piece of steel.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
The solution to this problem is watts linkage! I started a thread on it a while back. Of course its a little more expensive and involved than a drop bracket.
Ive been running between a 2.5 and 3.5 rear lift now for 3 years with no drop bracket or adjustable panhard bar. I didn't want to pay for the bar, or weld on a drop bracket in case I decided to go back to stock height or sell my truck. Honestly, the ride is fine without the bracket, although anything above 3 inches is really going to offset the axel. The main issue with running a lift with the axel off center, which I now know from experience, is that it will cause some serious cupping to the tires over time. Ive still pushed 50k miles out of my tires, but the ride is rougher than it should be.
Ive been running between a 2.5 and 3.5 rear lift now for 3 years with no drop bracket or adjustable panhard bar. I didn't want to pay for the bar, or weld on a drop bracket in case I decided to go back to stock height or sell my truck. Honestly, the ride is fine without the bracket, although anything above 3 inches is really going to offset the axel. The main issue with running a lift with the axel off center, which I now know from experience, is that it will cause some serious cupping to the tires over time. Ive still pushed 50k miles out of my tires, but the ride is rougher than it should be.
Last edited:
I don't follow the logic on how the offset axle would have anything to do with the tires cupping. Care to explain?
Coopsdaddy
New member
Coopsdaddy
New member
What do you think about the last pic without a gusset,whats the chance of shearing a grade 8 bolt,also putting some spacers In between.Would that be strong enough for daily use and mild off-roading?
Konkordmusk
New member
This is my 4runners alignment before my lift, obviously note the rear alignment:
This was immediately after the lift:
And this is a few months after, with some weight added, but no adjustable bar or drop bracket:
I can tell you from experience that my rear tires DO have some cupping. Nothing a regular tire rotation doesn't help, though. My rear axle is definitely NOT pointed straight. In fact, both rear tires are pointing to the passenger side of the truck by half a degree. I have no supporting modifications for my lift; stock arms everywhere else.