Parasitic Drain
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TXLX1
New member
Are you asking about checking the current draw by putting the volt meter in series with the battery? I don't know how else you'd check current draw.
If it were mine, I'd start by checking all the battery wiring and grounds, then check all of the door jamb switches for operation, if you have power locks check and see if all of those are working (sometimes if they are intermittent failing, the car will continually try to lock the door).
After that, I would start pulling fuses or checking the current draw on the various fused systems (windows, lights, etc).
If it were mine, I'd start by checking all the battery wiring and grounds, then check all of the door jamb switches for operation, if you have power locks check and see if all of those are working (sometimes if they are intermittent failing, the car will continually try to lock the door).
After that, I would start pulling fuses or checking the current draw on the various fused systems (windows, lights, etc).
"Are you asking about checking the current draw by putting the volt meter in series with the battery? I don't know how else you'd check current draw. "
Yes. Exactly. They say you disconnect the negative terminal and place the meter between the terminal and clamp, then read the draw.
Yes. Exactly. They say you disconnect the negative terminal and place the meter between the terminal and clamp, then read the draw.
"If it were mine, I'd start by checking all the battery wiring and grounds, then check all of the door jamb switches for operation, if you have power locks check and see if all of those are working (sometimes if they are intermittent failing, the car will continually try to lock the door).
After that, I would start pulling fuses or checking the current draw on the various fused systems (windows, lights, etc)."
Thanks. I will do that.
Regards,
Bob
After that, I would start pulling fuses or checking the current draw on the various fused systems (windows, lights, etc)."
Thanks. I will do that.
Regards,
Bob
TXLX1
New member
Yep, just be sure to set your meter properly. I wouldn't run the vehicle like that of course.
4bangr
New member
what the previous posters have outlined is the way to proceed on this problem, but i wanted to mention that i traced my parasitic draw down to an old alarm system battery pack that was probably shorted. I kept thinking i had removed the entire piece-o-crap alarm system, but I keep finding more....
This truck is totally dealer stock. My problem now is my old meter is not working, or is beyond my understanding. Might have to get a regular battery meter.
Regards,
Bob
Buckaroo
Member
Bob -
You are looking for a draw over 50 milliamps which is is very low. But, if you set your meter to the low amp scale and put it in series (which is the right thing to do) and the draw exceeds the meter capacity, it will blow the meter fuse (best case) or burn up the meter if not fused. Do some research...there is some technique involved here - you may want to start with a jumper and a fuse that's the same size as your meter capacity and make sure it doesn't pop. Then hook up the meter. Turn off all the electrical stuff and keep the doors closed when testing. Also, the computer modules may take some time to go to sleep and you want to test it after that happens (part of the technique thing).
Buckaroo
TheDurk
Elite Member
I prefer to use a test light to start. If the lamp is bright, don't put your meter on it.
soupkitchen
New member
I'd put money on the dome light fuse under the hood....maybe pull it for a night while its still charged and see if it starts in the morning.
That circuit is pretty vast and a common problem.
That circuit is pretty vast and a common problem.
Buckaroo
Member
shahsmerdis
New member
make sure your alarm is off before you test, ask me how i know.
