Parasitic draw draining the battery/multi meter assist needed

Your on the milla amp setting and its reading 33. It looks like it to me. I like my auto ranging fluke for these things. It tells me what I'm reading.......


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Anyone that is a little more familiar with multimeter usage. Can you confirm that in the photos originally posted, and in the one I'll throw on here that the value is in milliamps and not amps.

I've popped 3 fuses in my meter now, all rated at 500 mA. Yet the peak reading I've gotten appears to be 40ish mA.

Anybody know what might be going on?
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When taking a reading in amps/milliamps, you want to ALWAYS start with the highest scale--10A in your case. If it shows less than 0.2 then you drop it to the 200mA scale and read again. Íf it shows less than 20, you can drop to the lowest one and get another significant digit.

This should avoid you blowing fuses.

But yeah, thats 40ish mA.

You don't show which holes you have the leads in. That can cause issues if you get it wrong.

Do you have the AC/DC key UP? It looks down, which is AC and you want DC.

EDIT: Upthread you have the leads right for 200mA. But the AC/DC key still looks wrong. I don't know if that will cause a fuse to blow (mine don't work that way) but it definitely wants to be on DC.
 
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Alright thanks man. So I'm not crazy. The leads are in the negative and the right side. So the 200ma 250v side. Which I guess explains it? I'm fairly certain it's on dc because it was reading correctly, but I'll double check that.

When reading amperage does it matter which lead is on which end(post or cable/clamp)? I read yesterday that it would simply read negative if reversed, but that may only refer to reading voltages.

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Alright thanks man. So I'm not crazy. The leads are in the negative and the right side. So the 200ma 250v side. Which I guess explains it? I'm fairly certain it's on dc because it was reading correctly, but I'll double check that.

When reading amperage does it matter which lead is on which end(post or cable/clamp)? I read yesterday that it would simply read negative if reversed, but that may only refer to reading voltages.

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Don't try to use ANY accessories, turn on the key, etc. when on that 200mA setting with the low-amp fuse in there. If you even turn on your stereo, it can/will blow the fuse.

An example: Just your two headlights on low (55W each) is nearly 9A of current at 12.5V.

-Charlie
 
Alright thanks man. So I'm not crazy. The leads are in the negative and the right side. So the 200ma 250v side. Which I guess explains it? I'm fairly certain it's on dc because it was reading correctly, but I'll double check that.

When reading amperage does it matter which lead is on which end(post or cable/clamp)? I read yesterday that it would simply read negative if reversed, but that may only refer to reading voltages.

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Reversing leads should just read negative on a digital meter. Don't do that with an analog.

Charlie speaks truth. Even a 10W dome light from opening a door or a glove box (just not on our trucks) will pull about 900mA
 
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Got it guys. Thanks. You've all been a tremendous help so far. I know for sure one of the fuses was because I knocked the clamp off my door ajar sensor...

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Reversing leads should just read negative on a digital meter. Don't do that with an analog.

Charlie speaks truth. Even a 10W dome light from opening a door or a glove box (just not on our trucks) will pull about 900mA
That would have been a better example. :thumb3:

-Charlie
 
I suspect you're chasing the wrong problem. Intermittent starting problems while lights and radio continue to work are symptomatic of a bad connection to the starter, not a drained battery. If the lights go out when you hit the starter, the bad connection is likely right at the battery. Pull the cables off and clean the insides of the cable clamps and the battery terminal until bright metal is showing. Dull gray isn't good. Reassemble and tighten securely.

If that doesn't fix it, follow this procedure the next time the vehicle fails to start.
- Put your multimeter directly across the battery terminals, not on the cables or connectors. You should measure > 12 volts.
- Now have someone hit the starter while you watch the meter. If the battery voltage drops below 10V, you have a discharged or bad battery. If it stays above 12V and the starter doesn't turn you have bad connection to the starter.
- To find the bad connection, keep moving the positive probe of the multimeter toward the starter until you find a spot where the voltage drops significantly when your assistant engages the starter. That will indicate you've moved across the bad connection. All the while keep the negative probe of the multimeter on the negative terminal of the battery.
- If you don't find the voltage drop by moving the positive probe, repeat the process by placing the positive probe on the positive battery terminal, and move the negative probe progressively along the grounding cable toward the engine block until you find the point of voltage drop. That will be your bad ground connection.

This is Solid Troubleshooting Advice. Thanks.
 

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