parking brake write-up

[4RBob]

there isn't a lot of room to get at all the parts (springs, etc) behind the axle flange. i believe the axle is pressed together with the backing plate.

are there any parking brake re-build write-ups? if not, does anyone have any helpful hints?

i did do a search, but could not find anything but not so detailed FSM pages.

thanks

 

[4RBob]

really?

 

[Sungod]

There isn't a lot of room so you can't use normal brake tools. There is no easy way of pulling the axle which would give you the access you need. I used a pair of locking needle nose pliers. The cups are probably more challenging. I used a pair of vice grips and a lot of pushing with one hand and the other on the pin. It is a pain in the ass, but once your figure it out it is easy. After you get those off everything else is easy.

 

[aha2988]

must have gotten missed. sorry

to change or rebuild the emergency/parking brake. you'll remove the rear wheels with the rear of the truck jacked up and placed securly on jackstands

unbolt the brake calipers and use a bungie cord or belt or cord to hang the caliper up in the wheel well out of the way preventing the caliper from stretching the brake line.

disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire and get it away from being damaged in anyway as well as the wheel speed sensor (there expensive and a pain to replace best to protect them if there not in the way then proceed to the next step)

remove the brake rotor. It should just pull off the hub may require alittle hammering on with a soft headed hammer there can be debree build up around the hub that may need to be cleaned or sanded to get the rotor to slide off of the hub.

once the rotors off you'll see the inner workings of the parking brake. the hub will spin around allowing you access holes to remove parts from behind it without removing he axle. (if the trucks in neutral / 2wd) if the trucks a v8 full time awd you'll need the front tires off the ground as well to get the hub to spin freely.

*****NOTE: TAKE PICTURES OF THE ASSEMBLY BEHIND THE HUB (THE DRUM BRAKE ASSEMBLY BEHIND THE HUB) FOR REINSTALL REFERENCE!****

using a brake retaining spring clip driver (tool to compress and spin the retaining clip that holds the springs that retain the brake bads to the backing plate) remove the retaining clips and springs at this point is just a matter of disconnecting all the springs in the assembly (be sure to note how the go back in!!)

put your new brake shoes on and reassemble everything to the way you found it.

you'll see an adjusting rod or spreader whatever its called it has a series of gear teeth to use a brake spoon or a screw driver to rotate this forwards or backwards to adjust the preload of the brake shoes. loosen this until it alows your brake rotor/ brake drum to seat back onto the hub flat against the axle hub flange. after you slide the rotor on reassemble the brake caliper to the hub/rotor.

the brake rotor has an access hole in it to allow you to adjust that adjusting rod i mentioned. spin the rotor to allign the access hole with the series of gear teeth and use a screw driver or "brake spoon" to spread the brake shoes out to where the barely grab the inner drum incorporated into the rotor. you should be able to spin the rotor freely with a simi slight resistance. (you should hear the brake shoes just barely sliding on the inside surface of the drum as you spin)

to test before putting the wheels back on depress your emergency brake pedal then attempt to spin the rotor (make sure it doesnt spin) then release the emergency brake pedal. Check to ensure the emergency brake released by spinning the rotor again (should turn and feel the same as it did just after install). If the brake doesnt release you may have assembled the springs in the drum brake assembly incorrectly so back up and try again. If you find it doesn't release after you've insured correct assembly, try loosing the brake shoe adjusting rod with the brake spoon just slightly then test again. make sure it releases properly before re-installing the tires.

onces you've got the brakes working right put the wheels back on and then test again. should be able to spin wheel freely with barely any drag. then when emegency pedal is set they shouldnt spin at all. follow up with a hill test. park on a decent grade depress the emergency brake pedal with the vehicle in neutral and ensure it stays. if it does your done! have a beer! if it still rolls down the hill you'll need to adjust the adjusting rod to tightin up the preload of the shoes. hope this helps

also you can find step by step instructions in a haynes manual from amazon.com for 18 bucks includes pictures and assembly tips

 

[Sungod]

Put your manual down and go out and actually try to work on something. :flipoff:
The problem is that the axle covers the parking brake assembly making it very hard to get too.

 

[aha2988]

Put your manual down and go out and actually try to work on something. :flipoff:
The problem is that the axle covers the parking brake assembly making it very hard to get too.

hey sungod :hungry: I spend plenty of time wrenching how do think i rattled off that write up without even looking at my truck. uh cause i've done it. I've restuded that hole axle hub flange without even disassemling the brake assembly. Plus I've also replaced my brake shoes without removing the axle sorry you did it the hard way and had so much trouble maybe its you old fat fingers that get in the way of your work :flipoff:

 

[MikeInNH]

remove the brake rotor. It should just pull off the hub may require alittle hammering on with a soft headed hammer there can be debree build up around the hub that may need to be cleaned or sanded to get the rotor to slide off of the hub.

There's actually an easier way to remove the rotor.

On the face of the rotor there are two little holes next to the where the lug nuts go through the rotor. They are threaded...and designed for the purpose of removing the rotor. Just thread in the appropriate bolts (I think they are 6mm course thread). Do one for a couple of turns then the other..the back to the first. Keep repeating until the rotor is pulled off.

I keep these bolts in a special place in my tool chest. I've had them since my wife owned her 87 Accord. Same bolts for her 87 and 96 Accord and now my 05 4runner and wifes 07 lexus.

I haven't replaced the parking brakes yet...Not too sure how difficult the job is. They didn't look that difficult.

What I've used for some of those difficult to reach springs is a pair of visegrips if you can't use any of the standard brake tools.

 

[aha2988]

cool, didnt even notice those holes were threaded mine are always packed full of dirt from wheelin lol.. when the hubs clean the rotor slid off fine for me a little drag from the PB but not much.

The axle hub flange has a cut in around the circumfrence of the the flange (looks like a side image of an orange with a bite taken out of its say 2 oclock poistion) you can spin the hub around and use the cut out as an access hole to get to the retaining clips. to get all the brake assembly componants out and the shoes its just a puzzle game. as long as you take everything out in the right order and reassemble in the right order the job goes fairly smooth. Needle nose pliars are a big help, channel locks, vice grips, brake spoons, screw drivers it matters not what tools you use the right ones make the job easy the wrong ones will cause you to spend more time working

The first time you do anything is never easy lol. The first time i did the parking brake i started on the drivers side just dove in an took everything appart, then said wait a minute where does this go again? lol. so i took pictures of the other side to compare side by side making sure everything was in its right place. it took a few trial an error order of assembly processes i'd get almost all the pieces back in then run out of room to get a spring cliped back on but once it puzzled it together right it was no sweat. I waited a day or so to jump on the other side and it went much smooter as i knew what i was diving into.

 

[4RBob]

thanks for the replies. i guess it is just kind of a pain in the ass. it's an access thing. i need to re-build both sides (parking brake hardware kit) because the springs/clips are wearing out and causing some interference with the backs of the axle flanges. my mechanic friend looked at it too and thought there should be an easier way. i did one spring several years ago (left parking brake on while removing the rotor :cry2 and remember it being difficult to get the springs/retainers back on with the limited space. oh well, just gonna take more time, patience, and beer.

 

[aha2988]

thanks for the replies. i guess it is just kind of a pain in the ass. it's an access thing. i need to re-build both sides (parking brake hardware kit) because the springs/clips are wearing out and causing some interference with the backs of the axle flanges. my mechanic friend looked at it too and thought there should be an easier way. i did one spring several years ago (left parking brake on while removing the rotor :cry2 and remember it being difficult to get the springs/retainers back on with the limited space. oh well, just gonna take more time, patience, and beer.

lots of beer!!

 

[ben550]

I had a noise coming from the rear driver side. It was metal on metal screeching. Took the wheel off, caliper off, rotor off and saw that the rear parking brake shoe was leaning towards me... the spring broke that holds it towards the axle... I bought the hardware kit and began attempting to replace just the pin and the spring with the holders... WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS. Is this even doable? I am about to schedule a visit to a mechanic. Is this possible to do without specialized tools? The video listed above shows him needing special tools. Unbelievable how honking huge the wheel hub is... It completely blocks access to everything I need to get to. If I had access it would be doable.

Any advice? What would this cost at a mechanic?

 

[shahsmerdis]

it took me 3 weekends and 100 hours of thinking, I finally got it right! When I was done with this parking brake, it held forward in reverse, up and down a steep hill. Then a wheel stud broke, i shit you not. I had the car on jacks for 3 weekends, for a ****ing parking brake. I said F it, and got a shop to do the wheel and finish it, it is not right. it only holds when moving forward not in reverse, or when in neutral down a hill in reverse. Asked a lot here. You have come to the right place. I'll tell you everything you need to know.

Both drums should come out equally. . Adjusting is also a pain. let me get a video, and start my story on how to do this.

I really want to do a video on this.

 

[Morphyne]

There are already some decent writeups on here. I had a recent run in with my ebrake and thjs forum saved me a lot of heartache.

 

[shahsmerdis]

Hi All

this is how your parking brake should look like when it is properly set up, notice how both sides of the parking brake push out. If one side engages, change the top 2 springs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpMa8YXcLCI

Adjusting is another story. you need to adjust both sides at the same time or else they will never be right. I got to go back in there soon, so hopefully i can do a proper video.

Edit: parking shoes are not centered, but they will center out when you put the rotor on. also the rust on that hub should be cleaned if you have any on yours.

Thanks.