Pause----- lower

[wake_rider]

Huge pause before rear window lowers. NOT the child safety feature. Much longer

Starting yesterday, whenever I attempt to lower my tailgate window there is a good 3-5 second pause to lower it. However, this pause only takes place whenever the rear window is all the way up. If it is even cracked, it lowers as immediately as I touch the switch. This is also happening regardless of what method I'm using to lower it (be it the key fob, the rear lock, or the in-cab switch on the dash).

So again, there is zero delay going up or down whenever the tailgate window is in any position other than closed all the way. There is also not any motor noise prior to it actually engaging to lower, nor is there any significant resistance going up or down, so it doesn't appear to be an issue of being stuck.

Any ideas on what to check?

 

[Oneluv13T4R]

safety mechanism

Its making sure that someone is truly wanting the window down and didnt just tap,bump, or push accidentaly for (child safety) kids maybe in third row seating, in the back etc. or just like key fob you may have hit the window down button , or kids playing with the keys etc and your going shopping and low and behold you come back window is down wtf? safety and protection from our ownselves pretty much.

thats why it responsed so quickly when its already down,open, cracked cause you already clarified to be down and gave it the ok. cause the next safety mechanism (child) and from ourselves is now when the window is going up it only watches for anything by (sensors) that obstructs it from shutting and immediatly stops opens all the way and goes into a deep lock down mode from there...once again child safety being first then from ourselves.

 

[wake_rider]

I know what you're referring to, but this is different. First, that delay has never occurred while using the switch on the dash. Also, the amount of time it's taking to initiate rolling down is variable, but seems to be increasing quite a bit in just a day. Sometimes it takes well more than 5 seconds to begin rolling down.

That pause that you're referring to normally only happens when using the key fob or the hatch lock, but never the dash switch. Even then, it is only a second or two whenever using either of those. This is literally more than 5 seconds at times, and again, only began yesterday.

Is there a sensor or something that tells the car that the window is all the way up, or that the wiper arm has set back off the window? ? I'm wondering if cleaning all the contacts will help. Also, is there a relay that controls that signal?

 

[jeremyc74]

I know what you're referring to, but this is different. First, that delay has never occurred while using the switch on the dash. Also, the amount of time it's taking to initiate rolling down is variable, but seems to be increasing quite a bit in just a day. Sometimes it takes well more than 5 seconds to begin rolling down.

That pause that you're referring to normally only happens when using the key fob or the hatch lock, but never the dash switch. Even then, it is only a second or two whenever using either of those. This is literally more than 5 seconds at times, and again, only began yesterday.

Is there a sensor or something that tells the car that the window is all the way up, or that the wiper arm has set back off the window? ? I'm wondering if cleaning all the contacts will help. Also, is there a relay that controls that signal?

There's a body control module in the hatch that I would assume handles all these functions. You could have a sticky relay, or bad connection going on in there. If you decide to crack it up, post up some pics! I'd be interested to know what's in there.

 

[wake_rider]

There's a body control module in the hatch that I would assume handles all these functions. You could have a sticky relay, or bad connection going on in there. If you decide to crack it up, post up some pics! I'd be interested to know what's in there.

I'm needing to replace the rear wiper motor (somebody broke off my rear wiper during an away OU Football game. Baylor football fans might be the biggest pricks I've come across) and it badly bent the shaft that comes out of the motor making it unusable. I'll open it up today and see if I can clean all the connections while I'm in there replacing that motor, and I'll try to snap photos during the process.

What lubes are supposed to be used on the window tracks and channels?

 

[wake_rider]

Too add to it, you know that beep that it makes whenever you're lowering the hatch window with the key fob? That happens at its normal rate, but the window still takes another 4 or 5 seconds before initiating that lowering. Again, this all started yesterday. The day before it worked perfectly (I open that hatch windown on the regular).

 

[jeremyc74]

I'm needing to replace the rear wiper motor (somebody broke off my rear wiper during an away OU Football game. Baylor football fans might be the biggest pricks I've come across) and it badly bent the shaft that comes out of the motor making it unusable. I'll open it up today and see if I can clean all the connections while I'm in there replacing that motor, and I'll try to snap photos during the process.

What lubes are supposed to be used on the window tracks and channels?

Not sure about the lubes. The broken wiper may very well be your problem though. Maybe when they broke it off it tweaked the switches in the motor, and the window doesn't know the wiper is home?

 

[wake_rider]

Not sure about the lubes. The broken wiper may very well be your problem though. Maybe when they broke it off it tweaked the switches in the motor, and the window doesn't know the wiper is home?

It would be odd if that was the issue as it was broken off more than two years ago and this only became a problem yesterday. I'm tearing into it in about an hour, so I'll try to see what's going on once I get it apart. I wish I knew how to test it all, and I even have a really nice multimeter, but elctric gremlins are not within my arena of experience.

 

[jeremyc74]

It would be odd if that was the issue as it was broken off more than two years ago and this only became a problem yesterday. I'm tearing into it in about an hour, so I'll try to see what's going on once I get it apart. I wish I knew how to test it all, and I even have a really nice multimeter, but elctric gremlins are not within my arena of experience.

When you get it apart, check for continuity to ground between terminals 4, 5, and 6 on the wiper motor.

4 = Grey
5 = Grey/Red
6 = White/Black (ground)

Those are the switches that should be made when it's in the home position.

You can download the diagrams here:
http://web.archive.org/web/20100531053202/http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/fsm/wiring.html

The last page has some troubleshooting tips that tell you what signals should look like under various circumstances. Good luck!

 

[wake_rider]

I don't know exactly what fixed it, but when I was in there replacing the rear wiper motor I went ahead and cleaned all the connectors with electronics cleaner then put some dielectric grease on them. I didn't see any corrosion anywhere but that did th trick. It's functioning perfectly now.