Will be driving 1,800 miles cross country in our 2008 V6 4x4. I have about 800lbs of cargo that I would like to take. The back seats will be folded flat and the entire back will be filled up along with a cargo hitch rack. There will also be 2 passengers weighing another 320lbs total. According to the sticker in the door, it says a max of 950lbs cargo plus passengers. So where it stands, I am over by about 200lbs. So would this not be a good idea? The long distance is what has me concerned....
Payload capacity long distance
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eddiebx
New member
I am almost positive they rate them for combined weight of cargo and passengers, so he's going to be over the limit.
I honestly have no clue if it's a good idea or not, but if you do need to make this trek I would suggest you look into installing a set of air bags in the rear...air lift or Firestone both make them for your truck I believe. It will help a TON with the rear end sagging with all that weight.
If I had to take a guess, I think you will being "okay" with the air bags in the back, since it will be taking a huge load off the rear end suspension components
Yes, it is the combined weight of both cargo and passengers. With 80k miles on it, it still has the original suspension. I know the back right strut just recently started to show very minimal signs of leaking. I am mostly worried about vehicle wear. I will probably get the rear struts replaced later this year, but I don't want the load to cause any major problems. I am expecting to see a decrease in gas mileage.
Derek G
New member
Increase the pressure in your rear tires per the manufacturers recommendations and drive with the overdrive OFF or you'll risk damaging your transmission. Just go easy with it, anticipate hills with momentum, try to avoid kick-downs, avoid cruise control as much as possible (especially in the hills) and you should be fine. It also wouldn't hurt to change the fluid in your rear diff if you haven't done it yet, you want that sucker to stay cool.
With that much weight in the back and especially having it hanging on one of those cargo racks, you will probably look like a low rider. I would probably stop by an alignment shop and have it aligned with the weight, then have it aligned correctly one I arrived. Your tires and your gas mileage will appreciate it.
bzettler83
New member
I 2nd the AIR BAGS, if you have time to pick up an AIR LIFT 1000 its certainly worth it.
Considering you will likely be driving highway speeds the extra stability will just give you piece of mine, and make the trip a little less stressful.
Anytime I have 5 passengers, a heady load, etc I air up my bags.
Considering you will likely be driving highway speeds the extra stability will just give you piece of mine, and make the trip a little less stressful.
Anytime I have 5 passengers, a heady load, etc I air up my bags.
How easy is the installation of the Air Lift 1000s? I am actually leaving for the trip tomorrow, so I don't have much time. I think the auto parts store has the Air Lift Brand and I don't know where to get the Firestone ones(which sounds easier to install). Is it something that can be easily done in a couple hours?
Actually never mind. I talked to the auto parts store and they said they would have to order it. I called around a little bit and couldn't find any of the kits in stock, so that doesn't look like an option at this point.
If I could get the load closer, or down to the maximum payload, do you think I would be ok running stock for that many miles?
If I could get the load closer, or down to the maximum payload, do you think I would be ok running stock for that many miles?
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
Your truck is designed to tow lots more weight than that, I don't think you will really cause that much extreme damage, but like other suggested, spreading the weight out to a trailer would probably be more adviseable. Since you're using a cargo hitch rack, that should help lessen the load a bit, since it's spread out to the hitch which is designed for towing weight, but I think something like a trailer with additional suspension and wheels may be a better option for such a long trip. Just my thoughts
bzettler83
New member
Fairly easy to install, but not in one night. Took me a few hours to mount the compressor, run the lines, and button everything up.
I would say you will be fine, just take it easy, and stay alert.
I would say you will be fine, just take it easy, and stay alert.
Well I have the back all packed up and ready to go. It is pretty full. Ended up ditching maybe 100-150lbs, but then I think the wife added more. So I don't know what the final weight is. I don't notice any back end sag too bad so hopefully I packed it evenly. Haven't driven it yet to see how it handles. I just have to load the cargo hitch rack and throw a couple of bodies in the front seats and see what happens.....
laufer
Member
Confused: curb weight + stated payload << GVWR ?!?
Could someone please help me understand the discrepancy between curb weight, max payload, and GVWR?
Concretely, I have a UZN-215L (2005 V8 4x4 Limited, 5-seater, all stock, factory hitch).
- Curb weight: 4555 lbs for this model (according to Edmonds)
- Max payload (occupants + cargo): 950 lbs (on sticker in door jamb and owner's manual)
- GVWR: 6005 lbs (on sticker in door jamb and according to Edmonds)
There we have about 500 lbs of missing payload capacity. Can anyone please explain this to me? Is it related to towing? I am not planning to tow anything; I just want to know the true safe weight limit for occupants + cargo for overlanding/mild offroading (up to trail difficulty 3 or 4/10).
What's even stranger, the manual says on p304 that the total load capacity for the 7-seater is higher, 1050 lbs, despite the weight of the additional seats.
FWIW, the manual also says on p305 not to put more than 91 kg (200 lbs) in the luggage compartment, and no more than 54 kg (120 lbs) on the roof.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Could someone please help me understand the discrepancy between curb weight, max payload, and GVWR?
Concretely, I have a UZN-215L (2005 V8 4x4 Limited, 5-seater, all stock, factory hitch).
- Curb weight: 4555 lbs for this model (according to Edmonds)
- Max payload (occupants + cargo): 950 lbs (on sticker in door jamb and owner's manual)
- GVWR: 6005 lbs (on sticker in door jamb and according to Edmonds)
There we have about 500 lbs of missing payload capacity. Can anyone please explain this to me? Is it related to towing? I am not planning to tow anything; I just want to know the true safe weight limit for occupants + cargo for overlanding/mild offroading (up to trail difficulty 3 or 4/10).
What's even stranger, the manual says on p304 that the total load capacity for the 7-seater is higher, 1050 lbs, despite the weight of the additional seats.
FWIW, the manual also says on p305 not to put more than 91 kg (200 lbs) in the luggage compartment, and no more than 54 kg (120 lbs) on the roof.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Last edited:
laufer
Member
Thanks for your reply. When I checked definitions of curb weight, however, they all include a partial or full tank of gas and all fluids required to operate the vehicle.
And even if we accounted for gas and washer fluid, what about the remaining 400 lbs? That would be equivalent to a lot of gear.
don't worry about the weight, if it fits in the back, that will work. I drove to florida with full of stuff in the back and were okay. an occasional check of your wheels would be good. imagine your wheels carry all the weight of the truck which is about 4000 lbs. inflate your tire at around 32-35. don't over inflate.
It sounds like the payload limit might be arbitrary, based on an arbitrary passenger weight plus convenient luggage weight.
Car weight limits are a big, fat problem - USATODAY.com
It would be interesting to see how the numbers work out for pickups if it still scales with number of seats, since they are meant to carry a lot more in the bed than normal vehicles, and they are available in 2 or 3 seat versions.
If you decide to exceed the payload capacity, make sure the load is low, well balanced, and well secured. The best place for heavy things is right behind the front seats on the floor so the weight is on the front and rear axles. Weight on the roof is obviously bad if you can avoid it. And weight on a cargo tray on the hitch is probably bad because it can cause weird roll dynamics (read about problems with 15 passenger vans), plus it levers on the rear axle and lifts the front axle so the weight on the rear axle is multiplied.
I've had 850lbs or more in a Honda Civic, and it's terrible. I'm sure a 4runner could carry a lot more than 930lbs.
Car weight limits are a big, fat problem - USATODAY.com
It would be interesting to see how the numbers work out for pickups if it still scales with number of seats, since they are meant to carry a lot more in the bed than normal vehicles, and they are available in 2 or 3 seat versions.
If you decide to exceed the payload capacity, make sure the load is low, well balanced, and well secured. The best place for heavy things is right behind the front seats on the floor so the weight is on the front and rear axles. Weight on the roof is obviously bad if you can avoid it. And weight on a cargo tray on the hitch is probably bad because it can cause weird roll dynamics (read about problems with 15 passenger vans), plus it levers on the rear axle and lifts the front axle so the weight on the rear axle is multiplied.
I've had 850lbs or more in a Honda Civic, and it's terrible. I'm sure a 4runner could carry a lot more than 930lbs.
