Performed some minor Mods and need some Info!

[El Jefe]

Okay I am new here and This is my second post. First was in the new member forum.
I wanted to add some fog Lights/running lights to the front if the 4 runner however after i wired it up I did not like the way the switch looked. I added it to the center blank in the center console and it really detracted from the aesthetics so off I went in search of one that would fit in my 2005 4Runner SR5. There was not a lot of info out there on how or where to obtain switches. I was thinking of auto recyclers, but nothing there local. Then I looked at new, but that was expensive locally (dealer) and there really wasn't a "fog light switch" because it is now part of the light switch on the column itself. I was going to purchase anothe 115 VAC switch and simple repaint it label it and clear coat it. But I wasn satisfied with that. so I looked and found the the Tacoma switches work and WELL. I wired it up and got it into the center console where the old one was. It snapped right in.
In case you are wondering the part # is 8416004010 and I found it for practically 1/2 the price of any online dealer at this place: https://www.toyotapartsbarn.com/replacement-parts.html It looks very good.
Toyota Tacoma Fog Lamp Switch - 2005 to 2008
1- switch #84160-04010
1-connector#90980-11090
4-pigtails #82998-12340

In wiring it up I found that you can wire it one of two ways:

To Illuminate when lights are powered on:
Pin #
1-ground
2-wired to [3], then wired to relay that is powering your lights
3-wired to [4]
4-power (usually from high beam circuit for driving lights)

To Illuminate with dash lights (parking lamps)
pin#
1-ground
2-dash illumination wire (from another switch, rear of radio, etc)
3-power (usually from high beam circuit for driving lights) (power in)
4-wired to relay that is powering your lights (Power out)


You can also use the FJ Cruiser Switch Part # PT29735070AS


Toyota FJ Fog Lamp Switch
1-connector #PT297-35070-SH
1-switch #PT297-35070-AS

Which has an indicator light as well as you can see

I found this post on another forum that gave me tons of insight http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17563
Pictures coming........

 

[gm350reratliff]

Great info! Way better looking switch than you can get at the auto parts store.

 

[warpwr]

I just bought that same fog lamp switch (don't have it yet) and I thought I would ask you a wiring question.

I have a Tacoma and am doing a mod which equals a factory option, DRL or Daytime Running Lights.

They are controlled by the Turn Indicator Relay which gets replaced in the mod.
Anyway, the DRLs are normally not switched but I want to be able to switch them on and off.

My question is: I located and cut the wire that activates the DRLs and extended the two ends to the location of the switch.
If I connect the two wires together the DRLs are activated (or the relay is activated). In other words both amber front turn indicator lamps come on steady and the mod funtions correctly.

How would you wire this switch to light up when the DRLs are on AND make this connection too?

?
1 - one side of the cut wire (instead of ground, I can check if it is ground).
2 - wired to [3] and the other side of the cut wire (to the relay).
3 - wired to [4]
4 - power (usually from high beam, etc)

Or do you have any suggestions?
Any thoughts or help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[El Jefe]

gm350... Thanks

warpwr.. I am assuming you are using the Tacoma Switch.
1- switch #84160-04010
1-connector#90980-11090
4-pigtails #82998-12340

If I understand correctly you want to wire it as a simple on /off.

I am doing the same mod but with a twist. My 4Runner is not a limited edition so it did not come with DRL's. I added the relay like some threads tell you too but that in and of itself did nothing. I may need the sensor and the dimmer upgraded (although some threads say you do not need them) At any rate once I have them working I am going to add a switch to cut them out when I do not want them. So with that in mind...
I would wire it as a simple on off which means it only lights up when your parking lights are on like the other switches in your dash. If that is accetable then wire it as follows: It would be best to have a meter to test your connections.

To Illuminate with dash lights (parking lamps)
pin#
1-ground (you can use chassis ground (wire it to a nut in the metal body))
2-dash illumination wire (you can use the switch next to it and pick off the 12 volts for the illumination using t-splice taps (snap on) ) If you do not know how to test this with a meter let me know I will walk you through it.
3-wire (the one you already lenghtened) from harness side ( in )
4-wired (the one you already lenghtened)to relay side that is switching on your lights (DRL) (out)

Okay something I was not told and had to figure out.... As you are looking at the switch from the connector side hold it so the the plug lock is on the right the bottom pin is pin 1 and the top pin is pin 4. ( I am going to go and double check this to be absolutely sure)

Andy

 

[warpwr]

... To Illuminate with dash lights (parking lamps)
pin#
1-ground (you can use chassis ground (wire it to a nut in the metal body))
2-dash illumination wire (you can use the switch next to it and pick off the 12 volts for the illumination using t-splice taps (snap on) ) If you do not know how to test this with a meter let me know I will walk you through it.
3-wire (the one you already lenghtened) from harness side ( in )
4-wired (the one you already lenghtened)to relay side that is switching on your lights (DRL) (out) ...
Andy

Andy,
Actually I would prefer that it lit up only when the DRLs were activated. (Although if you think about it, it would only be lit in the daytime. Not sure if that would be the best way to go)....

So, the way I see it from your description if I take....
1 - ground.
2 - to 12V from the new turn signal relay that powers the lamps (or from the lamp hot lead itself).
3 - wire (the one you already lenghtened) from harness side ( in )
4 - wired (the one you already lengthened) to relay side that is switching on your lights (DRL) (out).

I guess I will be taking the dash apart again and doing some testing when I get that switch. I still need to order the connector and the pigtails, I'll do that today.

Just in case you wanted to see how the Tacoma mod is done, I will attach the link here. I don't know how similar it is to a 4Runner though.
It just might be the same. I have a 2007 4Runner as well as the new Tacoma and they are like non-identical twins.
Tacoma-drl-daytime-running-lights-install

Thanks again,
Vaughn

 

[El Jefe]

Here is a thought and I have not measured it myself yet, Is there power coming into the relay on the wire you cut and leghtened? If it is then you could wire pin 2 to pin 4 and whenever the switch is made it would light up indicating that your lights were on. Measure it with a meter an let me know before i cut mine. Thanks

Andy

 

[warpwr]

Here is a thought and I have not measured it myself yet, Is there power coming into the relay on the wire you cut and leghtened? If it is then you could wire pin 2 to pin 4 and whenever the switch is made it would light up indicating that your lights were on. Measure it with a meter an let me know before i cut mine. Thanks

Andy

OK, I went out and tested the wire that I cut and extended (It is a green wire with a red tracer on the harness and I extended it with the green telephone wire from a piece of 4-wire phone cable).
It is 12V touching my meter leads, one to the end of each wire.

So like this then:
1 - wire (the one you already lenghtened) from harness side ( in )
2 - wired (the one you already lengthened) to relay side that is switching on your lights (DRL) (out) AND to terminal 4.
3 - ground.
4 - from terminal 2.

So the switch has two sets of make contacts (1 & 2) for the switched circuit and (3 & 4) for the internal lamp?

Vaughn

 

[El Jefe]

warpwr,
pin 1 is ground and has to remain as such
pin 2 is power to the light on the switch itself (which is either turned on with your parking light OR as an indicator that the switch has been depressed. need to wire it to pin 4 (just twist it together with 4 and connect it to the relay side wire)

Pin 3 is is 12 volts in (Likely the harness side)
Pin 4 is 12 volts out to the relay

1------< gnd
2-----<----12v to turn on button light when depressed<---|
3--------------------< 12v (switched input) from harness |----------------------
4----->--------------12v (switched output) -------------|----------> to relay
(all the reds are tied together)

hope this works the way I intended. This way when you activate the switch the 12 volts switched out to the DRL Relay off of pin 4 is also switched back to pin 2 to light the switch.

clear as mud? LOL hope that clears it up... Andy

 

[warpwr]

warpwr,
pin 1 is ground and has to remain as such
pin 2 is power to the light on the switch itself (which is either turned on with your parking light OR as an indicator that the switch has been depressed. need to wire it to pin 4 (just twist it together with 4 and connect it to the relay side wire)

Pin 3 is is 12 volts in (Likely the harness side)
Pin 4 is 12 volts out to the relay

1------< gnd
2-----<----12v to turn on button light when depressed<---|
3--------------------< 12v (switched input) from harness |----------------------
4----->--------------12v (switched output) -------------|----------> to relay
(all the reds are tied together)

hope this works the way I intended. This way when you activate the switch the 12 volts switched out to the DRL Relay off of pin 4 is also switched back to pin 2 to light the switch.

clear as mud? LOL hope that clears it up... Andy

It IS clear as mud, clearer in fact.
I got it.
I just had 1-2 & 3-4 reversed in my assumption.

Thanks, I will let you know how it works when I get all the parts together.

Vaughn

 

[El Jefe]

Cool that works, let me know how it all turns out.


Andy

 

[warpwr]

OK,
Got all the parts and installed them today.
Everything works great.
The switch looks and works great. I mounted it in an empty slot on the lower row of switches.

I wired the switch light (pin 1 & 2) to the adjacent switch light so it would come on with all the others (with head and parking lights on) instead of only when it was switched on. I think that makes more sense.

 

[El Jefe]

OK,
Got all the parts and installed them today.
Everything works great.
The switch looks and works great. I mounted it in an empty slot on the lower row of switches.

I wired the switch light (pin 1 & 2) to the adjacent switch light so it would come on with all the others (with head and parking lights on) instead of only when it was switched on. I think that makes more sense.

Ahh back to plan "A" Looks great! I love it when a plan comes together. did you mean to put it in upside down?? :wow2: Kidding :thumb3::thumb3:

 

[El Jefe]

Warpwr,
I just noticed something that has piqued my interest, that 115 VAC switch, does a single press of the button (single press for each setting) switch it from 100watts to 400 watts to off?? If so I think I am having a brainstorm idea for one of JA's mods..... If that is indeed the case what year make and model is your Toyota???

 

[boozng]

here's a switch for dirt cheap guys.

http://www.trdsparks.com/displayparts.php?Mdl_dtl=603&Part_cat=24&parts_id=2956

i believe they have free shipping and no tax over here.