**Photography Talk**

havent posted here in awhile.

Pretty Lights in Seattle at Lucky 2013.

IMG_1796.jpg
 
Thank you for the awesome idea!
I have heard of doing these star trails merged on photoshop with each frame as a different layer which allows you to mask out areas of light pollution that show up on an individual frame (satellite, plane, car lights). Your idea is much simpler, I can merge the star trial on StarstaX (which is incredibly easy to use) and then combine that output with a frame exposed for everything below the sky, using Photoshop. Now I just have to wait for another clear night!

:thanks:

Edit: and yes Polaris is in the center

Np. Like hepar said, it's great to hear feedback from different-minded photographers on how to look at things from a alternate perspective. Keep it fresh, right?! haha

I've already learnt a ton from this thread, and I'm glad we can keep it progressive and educational as we provide feedback for each other.

I have played with StarStaX a little but am having trouble getting results that I've hoped for. I need to practice with it more as it really can be a valuable tool for star trail photography. I like how it keeps noise low, allows you to light-paint certain areas you want to highlight, and also lets you include some "dark frames." The possibilities are endless! Damn, I need to go take some pics - having photo withdrawal.
 
havent posted here in awhile.

Pretty Lights in Seattle at Lucky 2013.

Dang! I would have loved to have seen that show!

[MENTION=56396]Hepar[/MENTION] - watcha think? any improvements? Or room for improvement?

Looks good! I would probably only have a few suggestions looking at it quickly. Maybe keep the rule of thirds in mind, you are losing quite a bit of definition in the hair and maybe a bit warmer on the WB?
 
Looks good! I would probably only have a few suggestions looking at it quickly. Maybe keep the rule of thirds in mind, you are losing quite a bit of definition in the hair and maybe a bit warmer on the WB?

Thanks! :)

I don't follow "rule of the thirds" - essplain please :confused:
 
Thanks! :)

I don't follow "rule of the thirds" - essplain please :confused:

It's just one general rule of composing a shot. Definitely doesn't need to be used all the time, but a good rule to know none the less.

Rule of thirds - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I cropped down the shot a bit to overstate the rule as opposed to your original as well as brought out a bit in the hair and warmed it up a bit. All done very quickly, so there's definitely room for improvement.

<a href="http://s1131.photobucket.com/user/jusui/media/p1527133532-4-2-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m547/jusui/p1527133532-4-2-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo p1527133532-4-2-1.jpg"/></a>
 
Last edited:
[MENTION=75328]DannyLlama[/MENTION] It also looks like your depth of field is a little narrow. You're losing a bit of focus on his left eye.
 
[MENTION=75328]DannyLlama[/MENTION]

Hope you don't mind me throwing in my $.02 as well...

I agree with hepar rule of thirds, adding a little warmth in the white balance, and changing your DOF slightly. I think the child may have popped a little more if the whole face/hair was in focus instead of just the left side of his face. (ie. "stopping down" the shot a little) Maybe even up the exposure ever-so-slightly as I feel it is a tad too dark?

Great shot though! Keep it up!
 
i know its not photos but this is best spot for this i could find. finally put my gopro photos into a timelapse. still need to find how to export premiere cs6 and upload above 1080p video to youtube

timelapse

tried to imbed but cant figure it out
 
Last edited:
[MENTION=75328]DannyLlama[/MENTION] It also looks like your depth of field is a little narrow. You're losing a bit of focus on his left eye.

I know you've said that before about the DOF, but I guess I just can't figure out how to keep the right things in focus while shooting at F2.8, I think that's the biggest challenge.
[MENTION=63060]rickashay[/MENTION] - I don't mind any input, just want to learn all that I can. By stopping down, you mean moving up or down the F stop?

That show was taken with F2.8 and prob about 1/80 speed, 1200 or 1600 ISO, if the F stop was any higher it would be too dark. So again, the challenge is shooting with low F stop while maintaining the right things in focus. Any suggestions there?

[MENTION=75328]DannyLlama[/MENTION]

Hope you don't mind me throwing in my $.02 as well...

I agree with hepar rule of thirds, adding a little warmth in the white balance, and changing your DOF slightly. I think the child may have popped a little more if the whole face/hair was in focus instead of just the left side of his face. (ie. "stopping down" the shot a little) Maybe even up the exposure ever-so-slightly as I feel it is a tad too dark?

Great shot though! Keep it up!
 
i know its not photos but this is best spot for this i could find. finally put my gopro photos into a timelapse. still need to find how to export premiere cs6 and upload above 1080p video to youtube

Looks cool! My only suggestion might be to cut it down a bit. 2min of freeway can be a bit monotonous. What frame rate did you end up using?

You might be interested in this gopro footage.

My GoPro Array on Vimeo

I know you've said that before about the DOF, but I guess I just can't figure out how to keep the right things in focus while shooting at F2.8, I think that's the biggest challenge.

[MENTION=63060]rickashay[/MENTION] - I don't mind any input, just want to learn all that I can. By stopping down, you mean moving up or down the F stop?

That show was taken with F2.8 and prob about 1/80 speed, 1200 or 1600 ISO, if the F stop was any higher it would be too dark. So again, the challenge is shooting with low F stop while maintaining the right things in focus. Any suggestions there?

Yeah, there's your dilemma. You need to bump that f-stop to around 4-5ish to probably get the whole face in focus. Or the other is to step back. The closer you are to your subject, the tighter the depth of field will be. The other is to bump up your ISO, but you're already pretty hight at 1200 or 1600. Remind me what camera you have again? Some can definitely take being bumped up into the 2000's+. The other option is to look into flashes. Just get a somewhat decent diffuser and you can get some great results. Even if you just add a tad bit more lighting and not overwhelm the shot with a full flash burst, the results would be pretty cool.
 
Ok, this thread has pushed me over the edge. It's time to buy my first DSLR :banana:

Any recommendations on a first Nikon body and lens? Do I shell out the extra $$ and go straight into an FX, or get my feet wet with a DX?
 
Ok, this thread has pushed me over the edge. It's time to buy my first DSLR :banana:

Any recommendations on a first Nikon body and lens? Do I shell out the extra $$ and go straight into an FX, or get my feet wet with a DX?

How into it are you going to get?

Take some time to Google difference between FX and DX. For most people a DX is fine and an FX wouldn't really make a difference for above average photo.

If you really want to get into photography and want to keep improving your game, I would recommend an FX. Only because, your glass (lenses) will be FX and as you improve, and your body (camera) becomes outdated, you just replace the body and wouldn't have to also replace all your lenses.

There's a lot more to be said than that, spend some time on dpreview.com and compare cameras. For example, compare a D7100 (DX) to a D600 (FX).

I have also found this website to be very useful, it's a website that people use to upload photos taken with particular lenses and/or cameras - Over a million full-size sample photos from SLR and mirrorless cameras combined with different lenses

Good Luck!
 
Some great advice [MENTION=75328]DannyLlama[/MENTION]. I would only add that if you plan on ever stepping up into the FX game, there's nothing wrong with starting with a DX. Just make sure that you invest in FX glass. They will work on a DX body, but they will just be cropped a bit. That is where your real investment is going to be. Good glass. You can look and see that a good FX body is about $3k where a DX one is under $1,500, but after getting a good set of glass, you're talking around $10k for a decent setup.
 
Oh and [MENTION=75328]DannyLlama[/MENTION]. I also noticed that you were shooting at 1/80th of a second. You should be able to make up some ground there by shooting slower. You can get away with that down quite a bit as long as your subject isn't moving fast.
 
Ok, this thread has pushed me over the edge. It's time to buy my first DSLR :banana:

Any recommendations on a first Nikon body and lens? Do I shell out the extra $$ and go straight into an FX, or get my feet wet with a DX?

Im in the same shoes, for body i think the 5100 is very good and its fairly cheap, but i was looking at the 3100 too since it wayyyyy cheaper and it still has lot of the feature newer years dslr have. as for lens i have no idea, better to ask master splinter(hepar)
 
fairly proud of this one...anyone want to rip it to shreds??:lmao:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/willgentry/8633662986/" title="IMG_0396 by willgentry, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8527/8633662986_dfc824e47e_b.jpg" width="683" height="1024" alt="IMG_0396"></a>
 
Some great advice [MENTION=75328]DannyLlama[/MENTION]. I would only add that if you plan on ever stepping up into the FX game, there's nothing wrong with starting with a DX. Just make sure that you invest in FX glass. They will work on a DX body, but they will just be cropped a bit. That is where your real investment is going to be. Good glass. You can look and see that a good FX body is about $3k where a DX one is under $1,500, but after getting a good set of glass, you're talking around $10k for a decent setup.

D600 is only 2k with lots of goodies usually...
What's wrong with the D600 Hepar ??!! :hiding:


Oh and [MENTION=75328]DannyLlama[/MENTION]. I also noticed that you were shooting at 1/80th of a second. You should be able to make up some ground there by shooting slower. You can get away with that down quite a bit as long as your subject isn't moving fast.

What you suggest? 1/40? Or more? How would that help in the DOF?
 
fairly proud of this one...anyone want to rip it to shreds??:lmao:

Is it a little out of focus? Or is it the web hosting? I know a lot of my pics look like sh*t compared to the originals when loaded.

D600 is only 2k with lots of goodies usually...
What's wrong with the D600 Hepar ??!! :hiding:

What you suggest? 1/40? Or more? How would that help in the DOF?

Lol. I forgot about the D600. I don't know much about it, but I've heard many good things. I did feel one in my hand and just by that I will say the one negative when comparing it to a D700 or a D800 is the build quality is noticeably different. You can tell the 700 and 800 are built like tanks.

It really depends on the lens and your shooting style. If you say have a really heavy 70-200mm lens, it's going to be hard to shoot hand held at that speed. But if you add the VR feature, you might be able to. And it would help because you can offset the different aperture with the shutter speed instead of having to sacrifice ISO.
 
I
It really depends on the lens and your shooting style. If you say have a really heavy 70-200mm lens, it's going to be hard to shoot hand held at that speed. But if you add the VR feature, you might be able to. And it would help because you can offset the different aperture with the shutter speed instead of having to sacrifice ISO.

24-70MM 2.4 , no VR for that lens :(
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,075
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top