**Photography Talk**

Hey guys, anyone want to give me some advice on where to go with my gear?

I've been shooting with my D3100 for about 4 months now, shutter count at a little over 3k, so basically brand new. Anyways, the LCD is already acting up, it will just freak with strange lines and colors and will eventually become useless , then I will come back to it later and it will work just fine. It's obviously under warranty but I do not want to wait 4 weeks to get it back. I like taking photos too much and I don't have a back up body. and hell, when they get it, it will probably work fine and they will send it right back. I just have a lot of stuff coming up that I have been looking forward to photographing like my trip to Moab in a few weeks.

I'm starting to consider just buying a better camera and selling the D3100 later this summer when it's fixed..

Then there's the question of which body to move up to. I want something with more AF points (I currently only have 11), a faster fps (D3100 shoots only 3 fps max), and better low light performance. A D7000 would be an amazing upgrade from what I have. I think it would take me years to grow out of.

I found one on eBay with a mint condition 14-24 2.8 lens for 2300. If you know of this lens or own it, you'll probably agree that's a reasonable price for the combo. This is a lens I've been dreaming of trying with my nighttime long exposures. And it also won't become useless if I ever move up to an FX body in the future.

What do you guys think, am I getting ahead of myself looking at this high end gear? I'm just getting sick if this camera and it's garbage kit lens.

Thanks guys. keep all the photos coming

The 14-24 is an AMAZING lens. My favorite lens that I own. However, I don't think I would get it with a D7000. The biggest advantage of that lens is the fact that it shoots at 14mm rectilinearly. If you have it on a DX body, you won't be able to take nearly advantage of that. The widest you'll be able to shoot is 21mm. I would much prefer a combo of a 24-70mm f2.8 on that body and then maybe a wide DX lens.
 
The 14-24 is an AMAZING lens. My favorite lens that I own. However, I don't think I would get it with a D7000. The biggest advantage of that lens is the fact that it shoots at 14mm rectilinearly. If you have it on a DX body, you won't be able to take nearly advantage of that. The widest you'll be able to shoot is 21mm. I would much prefer a combo of a 24-70mm f2.8 on that body and then maybe a wide DX lens.

So with that lens on 14mm it would give me the same view as my kit lens on 21mm? I guess that's still pretty wide. I just want to take a photo of the stars at 2.8, or does the the crop factor change that to 4.2? haha :crybaby:
 
So with that lens on 14mm it would give me the same view as my kit lens on 21mm? I guess that's still pretty wide. I just want to take a photo of the stars at 2.8, or does the the crop factor change that to 4.2? haha :crybaby:

It's actually wider! They don't adjust the focal length number on DX lenses. Not entirely sure why. So when you're shooting at 21mm on your kit lens, you're actually shooting at 31.5mm. A crop sensor does have its advantages. If you put a zoom on there, you'll get much more zoom out of it than somoene on an FX body. For example, someone with the 70-200mm on a DX can shoot up to 300mm, which is quite a bit whereas the FX shooter is going to max out at 200mm

You're definitely going to get wide, but the difference is HUGE being able to shoot under 20mm, especially down to 14mm. But, if you indeed plan on ever moving up to full-frame, you'd have one hell of a lens in your arsenal.

And the aperture is fixed on that lens. f2.8 at its fastest no matter what body it's on.
 
So with that lens on 14mm it would give me the same view as my kit lens on 21mm? I guess that's still pretty wide. I just want to take a photo of the stars at 2.8, or does the the crop factor change that to 4.2? haha :crybaby:

Yup, you take your crop factor (1.5 in the case of the Nikon DX) and multiply it by the focal length of the lens and that's what it would be equivalent to on a full body (FX in this case) So that 14-24 becomes a 21-36 on the DX.

I have a Sigma 17-50 2.8 EX and it's my all-around lens right now. Does a great job. Many of the more recent photos I've posted in this thread were made using that lens. It's right at my limit for focal length. The closer the focal length from wide to narrow on the lens, the better the lens should perform. The best scenario would be a prime lens. They'll give you the overall best performance since they can be tailored for one focal length...whereas a zoom lens needs to try and give good results over a wide range. The wider this range...the more problems you have with image quality the further you get towards the extreme ends of the focal length.

I have a Tokina 11-16 2.8 AT-X Pro for my Canon and I love that thing...but I don't shoot with the Canon much anymore. And, of course...there is no way to adapt a Canon lens to anything else :tsk: I had thought of getting one for the Nikon for extra wide angle duties and it would team nicely on the low end of the Sigma I have.
 
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Yup, you take your crop factor (1.5 in the case of the Nikon DX) and multiply it by the focal length of the lens and that's what it would be equivalent to on a full body (FX in this case) So that 14-24 becomes a 21-36 on the DX.

Actually no. True, the 14-24mm will become a 21-36 on a DX. However, since the focal length numbers are the same, it would be under the widest length on his kit length (which I assume is 18mm). So, when he is at 18mm on his kit, it is the same as 18mm on the 14-24mm. If you were to set the 14-24mm to 21mm, it would then be equal to 21mm on the kit lens.

Not sure if my explanation is making it worse...

*edit* if he had both lenses with him (assuming one is an 18-55mm), he would essentially have one lens at 21-36mm and another at 27-77-ish-mm.
 
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Really like the 2nd one Mason! Good DOF and framing.

Thanks man, although I'd rather be shooting pooches pouncing around in the snow like you.

Hey guys, anyone want to give me some advice on where to go with my gear?

I've been shooting with my D3100 for about 4 months now, shutter count at a little over 3k, so basically brand new. Anyways, the LCD is already acting up, it will just freak with strange lines and colors and will eventually become useless , then I will come back to it later and it will work just fine. It's obviously under warranty but I do not want to wait 4 weeks to get it back. I like taking photos too much and I don't have a back up body. and hell, when they get it, it will probably work fine and they will send it right back. I just have a lot of stuff coming up that I have been looking forward to photographing like my trip to Moab in a few weeks.

I'm starting to consider just buying a better camera and selling the D3100 later this summer when it's fixed..

Then there's the question of which body to move up to. I want something with more AF points (I currently only have 11), a faster fps (D3100 shoots only 3 fps max), and better low light performance. A D7000 would be an amazing upgrade from what I have. I think it would take me years to grow out of.

I found one on eBay with a mint condition 14-24 2.8 lens for 2300. If you know of this lens or own it, you'll probably agree that's a reasonable price for the combo. This is a lens I've been dreaming of trying with my nighttime long exposures. And it also won't become useless if I ever move up to an FX body in the future.

What do you guys think, am I getting ahead of myself looking at this high end gear? I'm just getting sick if this camera and it's garbage kit lens.

Thanks guys. keep all the photos coming

Don't have much to comment on the Nikon aspect, but as far as upgrading, I would go for it if you could swing it. I opt'd to purchase the best SLR my money could buy. Aside from going full-frame, I knew I wanted a high end APS-C camera because that is ultimately where I knew I would end up. Why go through the hassle of upgrading bodies and just do it once. I'll only going full frame if I am making money off my photographs, so until that day becomes a possibility, i'll stick with my 7D.

Moral of my rant; buy the best SLR & lens(es) you can see yourself not growing out of for the coming months, and years.
 
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The tough decision I'm stewing over recently is one you should think about (especially since the full frame market seems to be widening and pricing is getting more enticing). The decision whether to skip the crop body and just go right into a full frame. The reason being is that unless you're real careful on what lenses you buy for the crop body, they may be useless when you decide to go full frame. If you never see yourself needing full frame, then so be it...but if there is a possibility that you'll want full frame in the near future, you may be better off just getting into it now and buy lenses for that camera.

You can use a lens meant for a full frame body on a crop...but if you use a crop lens on a full frame, you'll get a lot of vignetting due to the larger sensor coverage on the full frame. Although, on some Nikon FX (maybe all..not sure), they will automatically recognize a DX lens and crop down the sensor image so you don't get the vignetting.

Sure, you can always sell any lenses that are not compatible later if you upgrade to full frame, but why do that in lieu of just buying the right lenses to begin with?

Personally, I've looked into it due to the majority of my photography being landscapes and lower light situations. A full frame with it's added coverage and better low light performance will give me better results in what I shoot the most.

Not to say a crop camera cannot give good results (proven by the number of good shots in this thread that are not on a full frame)...but, it's just one more step in the right direction.
 
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tried out photoshop for the first time

before
5P8A8215_zps63938a67.jpg~original


after
0bbd9802-0818-4b49-8444-7118f346d3bc_zpsc6ee510e.jpg~original
 
[MENTION=89230]GentryGoon[/MENTION], I took a couple of quick photos just to give you and idea of what to expect with the 14-24mm on a D7000.

This pic is what you would get shooting at 14mm on the lens while attached to an FX body



This is what you would get if you attached the 14-24mm to a DX body at the same 14mm focal range.

 
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[MENTION=89230]GentryGoon[/MENTION] what I did is went down to Sammy's camera, or whatever photo/video equipment store is near you and I played with both a d700 and a d600 using the same lens.

Until you take photos yourself using both DX and FX, compare and see, you won't have a solid opinion.

That helped me decide to go with an FX camera.
 
[MENTION=89230]GentryGoon[/MENTION] what I did is went down to Sammy's camera, or whatever photo/video equipment store is near you and I played with both a d700 and a d600 using the same lens.

Until you take photos yourself using both DX and FX, compare and see, you won't have a solid opinion.

That helped me decide to go with an FX camera.

:iagree:

It's really hard to grasps the difference by just reading about it. If whatever shop you go to will allow...bring your own SD/CF card and snap a few pictures from each camera and take it home to study on your computer screen.

Also, one other difference between FX and DX that might not have been mentioned already is the shallower depth of field you can achieve with FX.

So...if your style of shooting involves lots of shots wide open, FX might help you capture a bit more subject isolation. You probably won't notice this advantage if you normally shoot stopped down.
[MENTION=89230]GentryGoon[/MENTION], good luck with your decision!
 
If you don't know anyone local that will let you play with each camera you're interested in, there is always another option....rentals.

Borrow Lenses: http://www.borrowlenses.com/
Lens Rentals: http://www.lensrentals.com/

That's just a couple I can think of, there are others. Even though you may have to shell out several hundred dollars for a week of rental on a body and lens, that's a small portion of what you'd spend without knowing first if you'll be happy with it.
 
Sorry guys about all these pictures im still on my new camera phrase :D
8664880954_c8174de3e5_c.jpg

trying to focus while this little guys running all over the place in the park
8664879464_68b9b3efe3_z.jpg

The creek in walnut creek
8664879628_a1770cd3b8_z.jpg

focusing is fun :)
8663781825_0ebc396c1e_z.jpg

one more of the doggy
8663780645_f94c662198_z.jpg

creek crossing
8664879964_39824e0cf1_z.jpg

old creek crossing
8664880184_2f1ccd9882_c.jpg
 
I'm going to be selling my D700 soon if anyone on here is interested. It has roughly 16k actuations on the body as well as the battery grip which bumps the fps to 8. US version bought locally. All boxes, cables and manuals. PM me if you're interested.
 
Pardon my obnoxious interruption, but I was just going through all my folders, and found this shot from September of last year. Probably one of my best ones, too. No editing done outside what the camera allows. Aside from my paranoid watermark :biggrin2:
8665370593_2f05db5476_b.jpg
 
The tough decision I'm stewing over recently is one you should think about (especially since the full frame market seems to be widening and pricing is getting more enticing). The decision whether to skip the crop body and just go right into a full frame. The reason being is that unless you're real careful on what lenses you buy for the crop body, they may be useless when you decide to go full frame. If you never see yourself needing full frame, then so be it...but if there is a possibility that you'll want full frame in the near future, you may be better off just getting into it now and buy lenses for that camera.

You can use a lens meant for a full frame body on a crop...but if you use a crop lens on a full frame, you'll get a lot of vignetting due to the larger sensor coverage on the full frame. Although, on some Nikon FX (maybe all..not sure), they will automatically recognize a DX lens and crop down the sensor image so you don't get the vignetting.

Sure, you can always sell any lenses that are not compatible later if you upgrade to full frame, but why do that in lieu of just buying the right lenses to begin with?

Personally, I've looked into it due to the majority of my photography being landscapes and lower light situations. A full frame with it's added coverage and better low light performance will give me better results in what I shoot the most.

Not to say a crop camera cannot give good results (proven by the number of good shots in this thread that are not on a full frame)...but, it's just one more step in the right direction.

I think I have decided on a few pieces of of high quality gear to try for now. I honestly can't afford a full frame at the moment. If I bought one I would have nothing left for glass which is more important.

Here's what I'm probably gonna pull the trigger on, all from B&H so returns wont be a big deal if it ends up not feeling like it's worth the money.

-USED Nikon D7000 body (unsure of shutter count, I will send it back if it's really high) $700
-NEW Tokina DX format 11-16 2.8 (I've seen lots of great astro photos on Flickr with this lens, It should be perfect for the D7000.) $600
-NEW Nikkor FX format 28-300 3.5-5.6 (I'm curious too see the reach this thing will have on the cropped sensor D7000, It should be great for wildlife and a nice do-it-all lens, and a great piece to keep in the arsenal when the time comes to move up to an FX body) $1050

what ever gaps these lenses leave I will just have to put up with the crappy 18-55 kit lens I currently have, till I can save for a nice 2.8 to fit that range. can't wait to point the Tokina up at the night sky.

And thanks again [MENTION=56396]Hepar[/MENTION] for all the advice!

Edit: I decided to opt out of the FX 28-300 and Instead went with the D7000 with 18-108 kit lens together for 1000 brand new. I wont get the 1 year warranty since it's gray market, but I think the 500 dollars off the retail price is more than I minor repair I might have to send it in for.
 
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