Planning rear axle swap

pdspen

New member
So the rear axle in my 99 4r is leaking into a drum again. (breather relocation done way back, did rear bearings and seals a couple years back, just did driver side again 6 mo back and now found passenger side leaking.) Incidentally the wheel bearings in the toyota axle are almost identical, minus the snap ring groove, to the front and rear main-shaft bearings in a t-18 transmission and I'd love something beefier.

I tow a lot, (have airbags) and have a Sterling 10.25 with posi sitting around and am planning to swap that under the back of the 4r. Front swap can come later but for now just want to get the rear sorted. Gears are the same as the 4r currently (4.10) so don't need to open it up and the posi in the Sterling works. Plan is not to really lift it or change the links, just copy the brackets on the current axle onto the Sterling. (Well within my welding capabilities.) Might move the axle back a little to keep from changing driveshaft length and use an adapter.

Questions-
1- Can anyone point me to build threads that used this axle? I tried a couple of searches both here and web in general but didn't find much about this axle specifically.

2- Has anyone ever tried notching the outer lip of the brake drum to mimic a much larger (and therefore more spaced) version of the ABS tone ring to get ABS and speedo sensor to work? Having looked at them when I had them out, they look like a simple magnetic pickup creating a pulse when metal passes by.

3- Anyone who has done a swap like this- would you recommend a larger diameter master cylinder? I'll compare diameters of wheel cylinders while apart, and obviously if the pedal doesn't feel right can adapt but curious about experiences. As I recall, there are quite a few threads about putting in larger master cylinders to accomodate a TBU so the how to on that shouldn't be difficult to find.

Thank you for your help.
 
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What are you planning to do about the 10" difference (or so) in width, 8 lug wheels, etc.?

Width difference is about 5 inches. (4r is about 67 outside of tire to outside of tire. Sterling is 72.) It’s from a 85 (?body is across creek right now) F-250. Virginia doesn’t require fully covered wheels. Short term I wouldn’t be able to rotate tires without remounting but eventually want to do the front axle and end up 8 lug. Might carry extra spare.
 
The 3rd gen 4runner rear axle width is 59.5" WMF to WMF (wheel mounting flange). I don't know what your sterling is but most super duty axles are 68.3" wmf/wmf. That's wide compared to the front.

It sounds like you have future plans for a front solid axle swap?
If so, do that first. You will set your ride height to the front axle due to available space for the solid axle to compress before hitting the engine (up travel).
(I just finished my sas so I know)

Once you have the new ride height, You will probably have to lift the rear. This will cause more handling issues. I had over 20% oversteer in the back due to lifting. You have a few options, triangulated 4 link (and move the gas tank), leafs, or 4wheel underground now has a rear 3 link.
 
The 3rd gen 4runner rear axle width is 59.5" WMF to WMF (wheel mounting flange). I don't know what your sterling is but most super duty axles are 68.3" wmf/wmf. That's wide compared to the front.

It sounds like you have future plans for a front solid axle swap?
If so, do that first. You will set your ride height to the front axle due to available space for the solid axle to compress before hitting the engine (up travel).
(I just finished my sas so I know)

Once you have the new ride height, You will probably have to lift the rear. This will cause more handling issues. I had over 20% oversteer in the back due to lifting. You have a few options, triangulated 4 link (and move the gas tank), leafs, or 4wheel underground now has a rear 3 link.


Exactly...it's wider than a 5" difference.

Personally, I don't see a problem with doing the rear first...it may look weird b/c of the width differences but he can offset some of that with deep backspaced wheels in the rear and spacers or low backspaced wheels up front....though widening the front with either method will likely mean tubbing the front fenders/wheel wells and/or a lift.

When he does a SAS, he can match the rear up to whatever he decides.
 
Numbers I listed were outside track width of the rear ends, measured with tires and rims on axles. Rims on Sterling are what I intend to use, but I plan to get slightly wider tires. 4r has 4th gen wheels with 255/75-17 currently. The donor axle is from a 1985 F250, not Superduty. IÂ’ll pull WMS measurement and post when I get it out because I canÂ’t readily find the spec on the internet. Might be a few weeks before I start working on it. Got to finish the semester. (I teach)
 
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I'm not trying to be argumentative, but is a rear axle swap the right answer?

If you're towing enough weight to be killing your factory rear axle regularly enough to want to swap a 1-ton rear axle in, you might consider looking at a bigger truck. You'll spend a couple grand at least and a bunch of hours making the swap, and even with the swap you're going to still have a mini-truck tow capacity, front brakes, and a rear axle that's 10" wider than the front.

Food for thought.
 

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