Please end this for me.

S

snowrunner77

New member
2012 with 40k. Never abused or towed anything, recently purchased from family member. Rear differential started small leak at 39k. I have all service records, no maintenance reported on diff. Decided to change fluid (Mobile 1 75/90) and replace crush washer (oem), torque as spec 36ftlb. Started leaking shortly after procedure. Tried something different. Bought a new drain bolt (OEM). Removed replaced fluid (Mobile 1 75/90) again, torqued new plug per spec. Leaking again. Not a big amount but enough to notice on garage floor.

Is it okay to use a thread compound in this situation? If so what are the recommendations? I was thinking Permatex?
 
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Is there a crush washer on the diff plug? If there is, did you remove it and replace with new?


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Twice. Top and bottom plugs oem washers.
 

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Verify it is not coming from somewhere else....

If it is the drain.. You will have to drain again and then check the sealing surface to see if it has flaws.. If so, some red or black RTV would probably work, but this is not normally required at all.
 
Just wiped it down. Will let it sit for a few hours then report back. 99% sure it is coming from plug. I did examine surface after draining and it looked fine.
 
I have put Hylomar sealer on every fill & drain plug I've had. I even reuse the crush washers(with a little Hylomar on both side) Haven't had a leak in the 30+ years I've been working on cars.
 
Update..

Leak not coming from plug but from weld around outer ring. Seems to be seeping through a bad weld. Pictures show plug dry and area on outside of ring oil drip. Wiped it down took picture, circled area it is leaking from in red.

I'm guessing it will have to be ground slightly then welded. Any thoughts? Thanks
 

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snowrunner77 said:
I'm guessing it will have to be ground slightly then welded. Any thoughts? Thanks
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I'm guessing you will have to pull the pan to weld it, I would never try that with the pan on. Too many things to go wrong welding under a rig. :flame:

Then if you're going to pull it, you might as well just buy a new pan and install it and call it good.

I wouldn't trust the weld anyway and I would always be 'lookin'
So for my peace of mind, just replace it, especially since you probably have to pull it to fix it anyway.
 
nglayton said:
I'm guessing you will have to pull the pan to weld it, I would never try that with the pan on. Too many things to go wrong welding under a rig. :flame:

Then if you're going to pull it, you might as well just buy a new pan and install it and call it good.

I wouldn't trust the weld anyway and I would always be 'lookin'
So for my peace of mind, just replace it, especially since you probably have to pull it to fix it anyway.
Click to expand...
This is the rear axle we're talking about, not the engine or transmission oil pan.
 
As a first attempt I would sand the affected surface clean and then apply some JB Weld as previously noted. If that does not work then you can grind it down more so and weld it with no problem. Seems to be an easy fix. Start with the easiest/cheapest option and go forward from there.
 
Are you positive it's leaking from the weld?

Try spraying it down completely with brakleen so it's dry and oil free then monitor where it's leaking from.
 
That's really annoying, and super rare I imagine especially considering that diff looks like it's never been offroad. I'd be prone to send an inquiry to Toyota corporate about it simply because we have no idea what the rest of the welds look like (not to blow a small problem out of proportion, just curious what they'd say).
 
JB weld makes a product specifically for fuel and oil tank repairs. There are several other manufacturers that do also. I remember a thread on here where another member had the same issue and I believe it was covered under warrantee.

If not covered under warrantee I would patch it. The differential is not under pressure and a good stop leak should do it.
 
Rmack said:
JB weld makes a product specifically for fuel and oil tank repairs. There are several other manufacturers that do also. I remember a thread on here where another member had the same issue and I believe it was covered under warrantee.

If not covered under warrantee I would patch it. The differential is not under pressure and a good stop leak should do it.
Click to expand...

I think I remember this too (but not the outcome).

I'd go after this under the powertrain warranty.
 
I don't see why applying a bit of MIG or even better TIG weld in that area of trouble is a big deal. Drain the differential, grind some of the paint and contaminates off in location of leak and apply good quality weld seam. Correct me if I'm unrealistic but this has to be simplest and the best fix for such issue.
 
<<<< said:
I don't see why applying a bit of MIG or even better TIG weld in that area of trouble is a big deal. Drain the differential, grind some of the paint and contaminates off in location of leak and apply good quality weld seam. Correct me if I'm unrealistic but this has to be simplest and the best fix for such issue.
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Yes, I would weld it... It's super easy right there and is the best most permanent fix and difficult to screw up.

You can do that with just about any welder (even flux core or stick). Nothing to it.
 
gtfour43 said:
Are you positive it's leaking from the weld?

Try spraying it down completely with brakleen so it's dry and oil free then monitor where it's leaking from.
Click to expand...

Yes coming from weld. Hard to see in picture and in person. I will try the brake spray to be sure. Thanks
 
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