Please Help! T4R shaking and loss of power

[brian2sun]

No. The injectors are in the valley of the engine, nothing to do with the valve cover. The new injector should come with new rubber for that one, but you'll still need to get the o-rings for the other 2 to not have to risk a fuel leak. The o-rings are like $2 for a pack or something.

 

[1985taylor1925]

No. The injectors are in the valley of the engine, nothing to do with the valve cover. The new injector should come with new rubber for that one, but you'll still need to get the o-rings for the other 2 to not have to risk a fuel leak. The o-rings are like $2 for a pack or something.

Based on how long this will take im debating whether or not i should pay a shop to do it. Is this a job that can be done in 2 hours? Longer? Much longer? =) Being a full time student makes it difficult to find the time or pay a shop. But id much rather do it myself if i can.

 

[brian2sun]

Well since it seems to just be #3, it's on the easy side of the motor. I would say probably 1.5-2.5 hours if you've never tore into that part of the engine before. Remove all your plastic intake tubing and get it out of the way. There's a ~6" fuel rail right behind the plastic timing belt cover that needs to be disconnected on the one side and then you can loosen the other side and swing it out of the way. There is a directional washer behind that fitting you disconnect so pay attention to which way it's facing and don't loose it! When you tighten that bolt back up later there's no torque spec it just bottoms out so don't over tighten it. I've found that the fuel line on the other end of the rail flexes enough and you shouldn't have to disconnect it.

Unplug the injectors and unbolt the fuel rail mounts and it'll pop out. The injectors may pop out of the engine or the rail might pop off the injectors, either way it's easy. You may want to leave the #1 and 5 injectors alone if they stay with the engine and just make sure they're seated still and just replace the o-rings on the top of those, but it's your call. I would probably just pull all 3. Then put it all back together and don't forget to plug the injectors back in.

 

[1985taylor1925]

Well since it seems to just be #3, it's on the easy side of the motor. I would say probably 1.5-2.5 hours if you've never tore into that part of the engine before. Remove all your plastic intake tubing and get it out of the way. There's a ~6" fuel rail right behind the plastic timing belt cover that needs to be disconnected on the one side and then you can loosen the other side and swing it out of the way. There is a directional washer behind that fitting you disconnect so pay attention to which way it's facing and don't loose it! When you tighten that bolt back up later there's no torque spec it just bottoms out so don't over tighten it. I've found that the fuel line on the other end of the rail flexes enough and you shouldn't have to disconnect it.

Unplug the injectors and unbolt the fuel rail mounts and it'll pop out. The injectors may pop out of the engine or the rail might pop off the injectors, either way it's easy. You may want to leave the #1 and 5 injectors alone if they stay with the engine and just make sure they're seated still and just replace the o-rings on the top of those, but it's your call. I would probably just pull all 3. Then put it all back together and don't forget to plug the injectors back in.

Sweet. Doesnt sound too bad. The steering rack bushings took me forever! As far as replacing the injector, i went on partstrain and there were 6 different models, ranging from around $50 to almost $200. Is there a particular injector you would recommend? Is it worth it to pay for a more expensive one?

 

[brian2sun]

I would buy a new or rebuilt OEM. If $$ is a concern, I think NAPAs are the next best choice.

 

[1985taylor1925]

I would buy a new or rebuilt OEM. If $$ is a concern, I think NAPAs are the next best choice.[/QUOTE

I got my manual today, which helps alot. I just ordered a rebuilt injector, and a pack of 4 o rings for the other two injectors. The manual also mentions replacing the fuel pipe gaskets. Is that necessary? And is there anything I should replace since im taking it apart anyway?

 

[CO_FlyFisher]

I hate to tell you this, but you really don't want to use those Bosch 4-ground plugs in the 5VZ.

Do some searching here on what spark plug to use and you'll find out why (I posted in threads here and here for a start). Just a heads-up.

 

[Nelsonmd]

uh, so perhaps a silly question, but do the double prong plugs need to be gapped? I bought NGK BKR5EKB-11's.

BTW, if you can buy any of this stuff from advance auto, the 40% off discount codes that were posted here are still valid. I have been getting tons of stuff for almost half off, including those spark plugs (that should make up for jacking your thread for a minute).

 

[zcruiser]

uh, so perhaps a silly question, but do the double prong plugs need to be gapped? I bought NGK BKR5EKB-11's.

They should not need to be gapped but some folks feel better if they are checked. If you do, use a wire gap tool.

"Trust but verify."

 

[1985taylor1925]

I hate to tell you this, but you really don't want to use those Bosch 4-ground plugs in the 5VZ.

Do some searching here on what spark plug to use and you'll find out why (I posted in threads here and here for a start). Just a heads-up.

I hate hearing that too since they were $6 per plug. But ya i read up on it shortly after buying them. Live and learn. Maybe I can sell them on ebay. Im gonna put the old double pronged ngk plugs back in when I change the injector next week. Soaked them in gas and theyre in perfect condition.

 

[1985taylor1925]

I just changed the injector on cylinder 3 and it seems to have fixed my problem. I drove it for about 30 minutes and the engine was smooth and running on all 6 cylinders again. Thanks everyone for the help. I took pictures along the way, and plan on uploading them this weekend along with step-be-step instructions to hopefully help out someone else in the future who has never done it. One thing . . . the engine check light is still on. But I believe that's simply because it requires three days to reset . . . at least thats what they told me at autozone. Can anyone confirm this?

 

[notrayray]

One thing . . . the engine check light is still on. But I believe that's simply because it requires three days to reset . . . at least thats what they told me at autozone. Can anyone confirm this?

It's a set number of parameters that the ECM needs to see .....I'll look at my stuff and see if I can find the explanation in the FSM.

 

[notrayray]

Found it.....
http://www.watrd.com/work/TSB_EG003-02_(revised).pdf

 

[hartfa]

I have a similar problem, but I think I have more than just the misfiring. My 87 5speed SR5 has been my favorite little work horse for 20 years now. Raised two kids in this thing. Recently had some maint done. Replaced the fuel injectors, VC Gasket. Complete tune up. Replace master and slave cylinder and the clutch about a year ago. Gave it to my daughter to take to college. Driving there, we started out great. Cruising along at 75. About 100 miles down the road, had to stop for my son to attend some business. Getting back on the road started off ok, but started losing power. No guts. Foot to the floor just to keep it up to 70, then 65, then 60, etc. By the time we got to the next city I was pushing it to make 5o. Also guzzled half a tank, which is bizaar for this car. Pulled it off and it was doing the rough running you mentioned. Got it to a mechanic at 5:55. Compression supposedly checked out, but #2 wasn't connecting. He barely jiggled it and suddenly much better. Said we should be good to go. However, still no guts. Tried to get back on the highway and felt like a granny putting along. Wasn't rough at all, but no get up and go. Got it towed to the school. Next day working great! No probs. Two days later, back to rough and putting along. Suggestions? I'd prefer not to have someone fleece my kid in a college town, since I'm not there to help!

 

[zcruiser]

Replaced the fuel injectors, VC Gasket. Complete tune up. Replace master and slave cylinder and the clutch about a year ago.

Nothing worse than having a vehicle you are trusting to get your son or daughter around and having it fail on them! Esp when they are in an area where you don't know whom to trust.

If you're putting your foot to the floor and using gas, but no power, then you have an air or spark problem.

1. Let us know WHERE your daughter is, someone may have recommendations on a good shop that you can trust.
2. You didn't mention ever changing plugs and wires ("complete tun up"?). Start there.
3. Have you changed out the fuel filter? May be clogged.
4. I'm assuming you have 200K or more on this vehicle. Has the timing belt been changed? Not that this would cause the problem you're describing, but if it goes you'll have more to deal with.

Good luck!