Please reassure me.

[gizmopt2002]

I just changed my oil at 60,159 miles, to Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30. This is the first time I have ever changed my own oil. I first ran the engine for a little to get the fluid thinner, I then shut it off and waited so that the oil can fall to the pan. After that I removed the plug, let it drain for a little while, removed the filer, cleaned up the oil that came out, BTW is there anyway to prevent the oil form coming out like that? I then put the new filter on hand tightened as far as I could go , then a quarter of a turn. Then I put 5.5 quarts in, closed the cap and started it up, and then checked the dipstick, looked fine. So did I do it right?

Also the oil was pretty damn nasty at 3,650k miles, Toyota did the last one, also I saw some metal shavings, should I be concerned?

And one last thing. I currently have a Toyota filter on there, but I think Mobil 1 is better, right? Because in 5k or so I'm gonna change the filter, not the oil.

TIA, sorry for sounding like such a newb.

 

[Jeff Kleb]

Sounds as though you did it correctly, but my method is to change the oil after about twenty miles of driving on the highway -- so as to get it as hot as possible. This ensures that you drain out as much of it as you can, along with the impurities, grit and sludge. You may burn your fingers if you are not diligent or have some work gloves nearby, but your engine will thank you.

When you install a new oil filter, hand-tight is sufficient. NEVER use a wrench to tighten it. Put a dab of oil on your finger and run it around that little rubber gasket, twist on the new filter and - VOILA! - the heat of the oil and engine will 'seal' it for you within a few minutes of driving.

Just a tip: When removing the old filter, be sure that the "O" gasket is intact. Once in a blue moon, part of it may stick to the metal piece on the engine block where you screw on the filter. I've only seen this once or twice in 25 years, but it does happen.
:bash:

I don't know about the "extended life" version of Mobil-1. I have always used the regular Mobil-1 in my cars -- either 5w30 or 10w30 (depending upon the vehicle and the season). As often as I change it (every 3000 to 4000 miles), it probably doesn't matter.
:awais:

Since you have the V6, the filter should be very easy. Putting it atop the engine was the best thing Toyota ever did.

 

[toto]

Sounds like you did fine to me!
I think there's a writeup around here that might have some tips for how to minimize the mess.

How long in months has it been since the oil was changed? Mine isn't very clean after 3600 miles, but that's because it takes me 6 months to get there.

The Toyota filter is good, although they do differ slightly based on where they were manufactured. The Toyota filters made by Denso in Thailand or Japan are a little nicer than the filters made in the U.S., IMHO. The Japan filter is hard to come by in the U.S. due to the cost, but the Thai filter is pretty common. The Thai filter is P/N 90915-YZZD1 for the V6 or 90915-YZZD3 for the V8.

 

[Jacobzky]

OP

you just saved money and the have assurance that it is done right and properly. changing oil is addicting.

 

[Lee614]

Jeff,
not to start a debate

Originally posted by Jeff
my method is to change the oil after about twenty miles of driving on the highway -- so as to get it as hot as possible. This ensures that you drain out as much of it as you can, along with the impurities, grit and sludge.

umm... how is that draining as much as you can? Isn't draining the oil the next morning, after all the oil has a chance to settle to the pan.. the best process to get out as much oil as you can?
can we agree on:
Oil flows into the filter, goes through the engine and falls into the pan, then sucked back into the filter..
that no matter what, the oil has to hit the oil pan before it drains out the hole, ie your oil doesn't fall off the engine and drips right out the drain hole and skips the pan. Also let's assume my hot oil drips off the engine at the same speed & temperature as your hot oil. Let's also assume that both our hot oils are dripping off the engine with the same contaminants. Then if I drain the oil after it has been sitting overnight... nearly ALL the 'dirty' contaminated oil is off the engine & in the pan and not splashed all over the inside of the engine, like when you do your oil change. (granted there maybe some debris/ shavings settled to the bottom that may not drain, but I am sure it isn't suspended in the oil when you do your change because the filter is designed to catch that stuff. And even if it is in the oil, how is it going to get off the engine any different that day verses any other day?)

the oil is not that much thinner when hot verses 'cold', that it won't drain out of the pan. Besides hot oil has less resistance (designed that way) and will slip past debris verse thick oil may adhere more to debris and pull it out of the pan when draining.

I have been doing my oil changes this way for 15 plus years and never had an engine problem.

just my 2 cents.

Update edit: I talked to my mechanic friend and he says I am right and wrong. The oil should be still warm to hot (not too hot), but I should wait from 1-3 hours from when I last ran the engine (depends on outside temperature and engine oil temperature), so most everything has dripped back to the pan.

 

[nc211]

My advice, and one of the benefits of doing it yourself, is the ability to flush out the pan. When I change the oil, no matter on what car, I always buy an extra quart of oil to use to flush out the old still hiding in the corners and grooves of the pan. After the old oil has drained, I pour the new quart in from the top, and let it drain out. You would be amazed how much old oil you will flush out with this approach. Probably a cup, maybe two.

 

[gizmopt2002]

Thanks guys. Yea, the only thing I would do different is put that extra half quart in to flush the old oil out, since I bought the jug of 5 quarts and another 1 quart bottle, like nc211

 

[peter78]

Then I put 5.5 quarts in, closed the cap and started it up, and then checked the dipstick, looked fine. So did I do it right?

It is always good to check the dipstick after the oil is changed, even if someone else does it. So you did right.

Here are a few things I do, something that may not be in a book.

1.) I try and run the engine for awhile, at least 10 miles, usually after a 30 mile trip.

2.) I open up the oil cap when I drain the oil. It MAY make the oil going out faster and drain out more.

3.) I fill the new oil filter with oil and rub it on the seal before putting it on. Some say by filling the oil filter it takes less time for it to get to the engine when you turn it on after changing the oil.

4.) I put a new washer on the drain plug. They sell them at Toyota. I change this every other time.

5,) I check the washer fluid, brake fluid, radiator flush, etc. I also WD 40 rubber parts under the car. I also check other other parts to make sure they are were they are supposed to be.

Bottm line you did good, you might want to re-check the oil in two weeks to make sure don't have a leak. The other 5 parts I do are just something I started doing after doing it for a number of years. I think you will be pleased with Mobil 1. I think you will notice the difference with it.

 

[Jeff Kleb]

Yeah, I could see why someone might think that the "hot oil change" may not be for them.......and that's fine.

I'm just old-school when it comes to these things. I have always changed my oil when it is very hot - since that is the way my dad and his dad have always done it. I began changing oil in the family car before I even had a license and am now in my early 40s. This method has always served me well.

But then again, I use Mobil-1 and still change my oil & filter twice as often as most other people. Cheap insurance in my book!!



P.S Good night to all of you.

 

[Jacobzky]

i usually run the engine up to its operating temperature, somewhere around 8-10 minutes, otherwise, ill drive around a few blocks hence when im getting the oil from the store.

Oil flows better when hot, thats is why i prefer to do it this way, even though other prefer to do this the other way around there is just no way you can get out all the contaminants out of you engine. That is why we have oil filters. However, to each his own and I just do whatever works for me effectively.

 

[danielp]

hot oil change

I always thought one of the reasons for the hot oil change was to get some oil into the engine before the oil change so that when you start it after the oil change you don't run the engine without any oil for those few seconds that it takes the pump to fill the filter. When we used to have rotars and distributor caps we would pull the coil wire out of the center of the distributor cap so that the engine would not start. Then, we would crank the engine until the oil light went off and the oil pressure gauge indicated normal range, indicating that the filter was full and oil was now flowing from the filter. Although I like the convenience of the top mounted filter, there is no way to fill the filter up before installing it. But for reference, even on my 7.3lt power stroke, where the filter was hanging straight down, and I could put almost 2 qts of oil in it before installing it (took 15 qts total so it had a big filter) it still took 5 or 6 seconds of idling for the idiot oil light to go off and for the oil pressure to rise to normal.

I understand you are nervous about changing your own oil, but I have seen 3 car engines destroyed by quick oil change places. Just because they do it 100 times a day doesn't mean they'll do a better job. The three causes of engine failure: (1) forgot to put oil in the car (2) forgot to put the filter on (3) somehow lost the 0-gasket and installed the filter anyway. Most do-it-yourselfers would not make these mistakes. If you just check the dipstick level afterwards (twice, wipe it the first time) and crank up the car and look for leaks, you should be OK.

 

[peter78]

You will notice a difference when you change the oil with Mobil 1 already in, it comes out must faster getting all over your hands. Then it drains completely in about 1/2 of the time. So my guess if it is not too hot, Mobil 1 will still come out pretty good. Also, I would think Mobil 1 would also protect the engine better when you start it up and wait those few seconds for the new oil to reach the engine.

 

[Koz]

Getting the oil to operating temp and running it for several minutes to insure the oil gets hot, is very important. The reason is because; during this hot drive all moisture is evaporated, all contaminants are washed off the inner engine, mixed with the oil, filtered, and drained. It is not necessary to flush 1 qt. of new oil, this is just a waste of oil. There will always be some oil left in the engine, no matter what! If your filter is mounted with the opening on top, you should pre-fill the filter before installing it. This will cut a good amount of time the oil takes to get to the vital areas during start up.

Koz